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I Really admire the challenges before you, many are not new.
It can be 'disheartening' when you put it all together, initial compressions look factory until she is revved up and something gives way (always what is attached in or to Rotors).
In the mid 70's, young and stupid I tried installing the OEM 2 piece Mazda Apex Seals (carbon) Mazda used in 10A engines, but only in the Auto's for whatever reason, the 4 speed Manual 10A's used only the one piece A Seals.
Cut a long story short, the Main internal rotor parts are/were identical in Man/Auto 10As apart from these Apex Seals and Springs, in the end after engine warm up we had bad compressions, engine out and new OE single A Seals back in...all good.
My thoughts concern your 'lighter' cut out Rotors area for the Side Seals and or SS Springs.
Would any New Side Seals have to be deeper in size (rotor cut out area)?.
I can perhaps see S Seal compression blow out/ or warping SS @ high RPM.?
This is my set up for grindind those side seals. Corner seals are about 11mm in diameter or 7/16th. I was able to find various grinding bits that were 10mm locally but nothing exactly 11mm. After scouring the interwebs I came across a 11mm grinding stone, bad news is it has to come from China so I won't get it for a month.
Big update! After much trial and error and sacrificing about a dozen side seals to the Rotary gods I managed to get all my side seal to corner seal clearances to 0.002-0.003in. Grinding those seals was probably the most difficult part of my build...so far. In hindsight, I probably could've just went with the standard seals and been fine. But driving around knowing I passed up on some extra compression would drive me crazy.
First impressions of Hylmar: That is some sticky ****. Had a couple tubes from Atkins that were about 2 years old, unopened. It came out fine, but after only 10-15 sec turned incredibly tacky and clumped up easily. I had a larger tube from a local race shop that was only bought a few months ago, much more manageable and gave plenty of time to spread it evenly.
Used housings I found on ebay, the guy I bought them from was premix only so I was able to use his oil injection plugs to keep stuff from falling in there
Dowels in, probably a little more hylomar than necessary...
Last edited by Smutterbutter; Mar 24, 2015 at 10:19 AM.
Too hard to see from Pics, but the journals/e shaft bearings and oil control rings look a little 'dry', you are lubricating with engine oil?...be generous.
Too hard to see from Pics, but the journals/e shaft bearings and oil control rings look a little 'dry', you are lubricating with engine oil?...be generous.
Yeah due the fact that I really have absolutely no idea what I'm doing I was very unsure about how much hylomar, vasoline, oil, whatever was too little or too much.
The oil control rings were oiled well when installed, gave the eshaft a once over also. Other than that the rotors, bearings, and housings have a fair amount of Vaseline covering them.
There have definitely been more than a few moments during this build when I found my self saying "Well, hope I got that right..." This was one of those times. Everything went in smooth as silk but it being my first time I won't really know until I try to start this thing up.
Yeah due the fact that I really have absolutely no idea what I'm doing I was very unsure about how much hylomar, vasoline, oil, whatever was too little or too much.
The oil control rings were oiled well when installed, gave the eshaft a once over also. Other than that the rotors, bearings, and housings have a fair amount of Vaseline covering them.
We would ensure the OCR would be lying in a small pool of engine oil, including e-shaft seat and journals before side iron(s) would mated and locked down...check...
TIP for any future DIY'ers out there: The RX8 O-ring kit from Mazdaspeed does NOT include the main pulley bolt o-ring...naturally, since that would be absurd to include every o-ring needed in one group.
I believe the Atkins version of the O-ring kit does indeed include EVERY o-ring needed.
Installed a new coolant pipe into the rear iron about 6 months ago...
New rear stationary gear/yellow dot bearing and Mazmart oil pressure regulator
Had a brief panic attack when didn't seem to have an O-ring that fit the rear gear like on my Mazdatrix/Atikins DVD's, then I noticed the groove cut into the rear iron that magically fit my last O-ring perfectly.
