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The G6Y0-14-302A was used on all Mazda V6 Engines ONLY from 1993-2000 from 1800cc V6 to 2500cc V6.
Mazda MX-3, MX-6, MPV, 626 and Millennia.
It is not used on any other Mazda engine.
Yes, you can virtually fit and use any other Mazda Oil Filter from a 121 to a current CX-5, they will fit, wont leak, but are not the correct unit to use.
I'm wondering if they sent the wrong part, check out a screen shot of the oil filters available for a 2009 S2. More than a few choices, not sure how I ended up getting a G6y0...instead of a B6Y0 filter. I'm pretty sure I ordered a bunch of the N3R1-14-302, I'm gonna go back and check the invoice.
So looks like I ordered part #JE15-14-302A which got changed to the #G6Y0-14-302 -P1's I got. ? Either way, just ordered a few N3R1-14-302's off amazon just in case.
Smutter..
As a parts guy I will always look at part number(s) first, and then work backwards if further investigation is warranted.
You originally posted you were supplied or have Series 2 Oil Filter.
What Mazda in USA (Mazda Motorsport) have done is supplied you with an Oil Filter which will work fine and obviously has the longer body filter like the good old OEM rotaries used to use from factory.
I did find the PSI rating of the (G6Y0) from Mazda USA and it is virtually identical to the small body OE Series 1 RX-8 (B6Y1), so you have the same filter but a much larger filtering capacity...
Only the S2 RX-8 (N3R1-14-302) has the higher PSI capacity.
RX-8 S2 Oil Filter By Pass........N3R1-14-302 is 20.3—26.1 PSI
RX-8 S1 Oil Filter By Pass......*B6Y1-14-302A is 11.4—17.1 PSI
Mazda Oil Filter By Pass ........#G6Y0-14-302A is 12.0—17.0 PSI
* OEM original small or short body Oil Filter.
# Long body Oil Filter.
So looks like I ordered part #JE15-14-302A which got changed to the #G6Y0-14-302 -P1's I got. ? Either way, just ordered a few N3R1-14-302's off amazon just in case.
Yeah the JE15's supersede to the G6Y0.
You are too fast
See post above, you could use the G6Y0's OK, but their PSI rating is no higher than your original RX-8, or any other rotary oil filter used (apart from N3R1's).
I'm wondering if they sent the wrong part, check out a screen shot of the oil filters available for a 2009 S2. More than a few choices, not sure how I ended up getting a G6y0...instead of a B6Y0 filter. I'm pretty sure I ordered a bunch of the N3R1-14-302, I'm gonna go back and check the invoice.
D-code is 23-802 on the parts diagram:
Yeah, Oil Filter info is 90% wrong for 2009 S2.
S2's never had the option of B6Y1, JE15, JEY0.....ONLY one, the N3R1.
Just confirms what I said that Mazda-motorsport website is incorrect, I would like to know why it is laid out this way as Mazda Dealers do not have or use this format.
I only use Mazda Dealer EPC as it is almost always spot on.
I get the Motorsport idea/ reasoning with also some 'performance parts', it is just wrongly represented.
What did you add to cart?, what part number?
IF you ordered the N3R1-14-302, they should never have supplied you with anything else. (amateurs.. )
There's no point repeating the obvious. What's not obvious is these guys race and are as much or more familiar than your are with not just the parts system, but working directly with engineering, race teams, etc. and also good at figuring out alternative solutions.
I don't know if their recommendation is right. You don't know if it's wrong. You only know what the specified Mazda part is. That doesn't mean there can't be alternatives. I only suggested that he call and ask rather than make an assumption.
Making some real progress now! Serious potential, yet highly unlikely, to have this thing back in the car by the end of the weekend...
New vacuum tubing from splitter to oil injectors, New OEM OMP lines which due to the SOHN adapter got pretty tight in a few places so used some cut up vacuum tubing to pad it.
Very tight for the new OMP lines, especially behind the alternator bracket and thermostat housing. This is the best "configuration" of the lines that would give just a little slack to the lines with some padding in just the right places.
Last edited by Smutterbutter; Apr 17, 2015 at 05:55 PM.
Good stuff, don't forget to premix HEAVILY while the air is bled out of the system!! I have heard some terrible stories! Good stuff so far, keep it up!
One last look and cleaning of the LIM, spent a lot of time trying to get the APV gears set up just right. In hindsight I should have taken better photos and noted the exact position of all the gears and valves when I took it apart.
Alternator back on, probably gonna get a refurb since this one has 100k miles, just wanted to get the wire harness orientation right. All the photo's and notes I took during disassembly are proving to be worth their weight in gold. So far its been a pretty smooth process...
looks good. when you put on the wiring harness. peal back the covering on the injector wires then check the color.
It fads near the plug and is impossiable to tell the correct color. Check it 5-10 times before you go on with the intake.
Mazda supplies color tags on the injector wire leads. Best to look for those, though they can come off or otherwise be removed. I use quality electrical tape in matching colors to the Mazda tags to provide a more permanent solution and save me the hassle.
Good note though. Installing the wrong connector on the wrong fuel injector is probably the most common Renesis engine mistake made. Even did it myself the first time. Major pita to figure out wtf is going on when it happens too ...
That's awesome info thank you! I will certainly use it to double check them all. I had labeled all the connectors on the harnerss Y1-4, and R1, R2 when I first took them off. That plus the fact that my engine harness is so old and crusty I can't imagine putting one of those plugs anywhere but where it had been baked into place for so long but I guess it does happen.
Mazda supplies color tags on the injector wire leads. Best to look for those, though they can come off or otherwise be removed. I use quality electrical tape in matching colors to the Mazda tags to provide a more permanent solution and save me the hassle.
Good note though. Installing the wrong connector on the wrong fuel injector is probably the most common Renesis engine mistake made. Even did it myself the first time. Major pita to figure out wtf is going on when it happens too ...
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Would your engine simply not start or just wouldn't run well after that? I can't get my new rebuild going and while I think I know the solution it can't hurt for me to double check
Indeed! I've been busy finishing up a million odds and ends and focusing hard on keeping my **** together. If I made a list of all the things I might of f'd up, forgotten, didn't even know about, or just plain didn't do it'd be a long list hahaha! I'm feeling good about it, and I have a reasonable shot at getting this thing back in the car in the next few days.
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