that sounds awefull low on the water temps. where did you connect the sensor? did you mod your oil pressure?

Did you premix the tank? on a new engine or omp repair I would just to get the oil in there.

 

Your video is marked private on YouTube.

Did you add premix to your gas to give the SOHN and its hoses time to prime and otherwise get generally happy?

 

I used the racing beat sensor adapter that T's into the coolant hose next to the window washer tank, the gauges are Autometer SportComp, Water and Oil Temp are electric, Oil pressure is mechanical. I'm hoping its a bad ground issue, idk. Wiring is not my specialty...

I did premix with Idemitsu

 

hummm, did you put it on the hose that runs to the back of the engine? That's where I run mine. is it a single wire? if so is it grounded good?

 

I'm not sure. The Water temp sender isn't grounded itself I guess, other than through the threads. I ran a ground wire from the water temp gauge to the engine bay. The instructions that came with the gauges are pretty vague, generic instructions. I've seen some that wrap a metal clamp around the sender itself and run a ground wire from that to a grounding point, maybe I'll try that.

I did the Mazmart oil pressure mod and put 3 little washer shims in the front oil pressure regulator. Wondering if removing a shim or two might bring me back down to a reasonable oil pressure. I could pretty much peg the gauge at 150psi with a quick rev to just 4k rpm. I'm a little scared what pressure I'd get at redline.

 

I can see your temp sender in the pic for the sohn. it looks like a single wire. Those are fine when your sensor is hooked to the engine, but it needs a ground. I'm guessing it is slightly grounding through your coolant. I'd try a clamp and wire to the block or frame.

as for oil pressure. I don't have a clue good luck. the shims might change it. that's a crap load of pain in the butt.

on a side note, do you have an old OPR? I was talking to someone who offered to send me one a while back to modify and show the club how I made it adjustable.

 

So busy at work I've only managed to put 35 miles on it so far. So far no MIL's. The traction control light and the ABS light are on. I tried the DSM reset where you turn the wheel to the left and right while the ignition is in the ON position but it stayed on.

Also have a small coolant leak that I'm pretty sure is coming from one of the old hose connections on the thermostat housing somewhere...

 

I always do the steering wheel/tyres left and right turn full lock thingy while engine is running, not just IOnEOff...engine has to be running.
If this fails again I would disconnect Battery, do a drain stomp and try again, left/right wheel turn, but with engine running.?
Skid light should go off at next engine turn OFF/ON run.

 

Thinking about ditching the Mazmart oil pressure regulator. I have a mechanical Autometer Oil pressure gauge that as far as I can tell is installed correctly. I have a braided SS line running from the back of the gauge to a modified banjo bolt in the front cover position. On cold startup the gauge pegs to about 150psi, then idles around 70. Once warm idle is at about 30psi but even while keeping revs under 4k I can get the gauge to read about 120+ with moderate throttle in 1st-3rd gears. This is using 5w-30, and as far as I know the oil coolers aren't clogged. I'm pretty sure if I went full throttle I'd peg the OPG at 150psi every time. Is the front cover a bad spot for the oil pressure gauge? Not sure how else to troubleshoot this except put on a OEM regulator and see what I get. Any ideas?

 

Personally I would not overcomplicate the OP issue.

AFAIAC engine Oil Pressure at the front S1 Oil Pump assembly is OK stock standard and does not need any shims.
At the rear end By Pass Valve is where the work is needed and yep shim this one,,,,, only, as it then after prevents engine oil from shifting straight back into the oil sump pan but through the engine eccentric shaft bearings, cooling/lubrication of both Rotors and E-shaft.

The S1 engine itself internally can handle these OP mods in line with what the S2 internals are doing as this excellent rebuild from SB advances his RE to that of the RENNY 2.

Where to tap into for Oil Pressure Gauge can be perplexing.
MMC Japan uses the blanked off area were the S1 oil filler neck is mounted for S2 and S1 OP values.
Coolant Temps, well only the one area behind the Water Pump.
Oil Temps, MMC don't have any preferred location, however I would think at the Oil Cooler Hose to Cooler Banjo.
9K and Mark (Team RX-8) has done a lot of work here.

 

Will removing 1 or 2 shims from the front oil pressure regulator do much? It looks like some other kits only include 2 shims instead of 3 in the Mazmart kit.




Currently I'm monitoring oil pressure from the from cover with a modified banjo bolt, and monitoring oil temp from the "inflow" to the driver side oil cooler with another modified banjo bolt. Switching them crossed my mind but I don't think the pressure reading I'd get would be any different. The other option would be the return line banjo by the oil filter but with the engine back in the car that would be a HUGE pain in the *** at this point to get a modified banjo in there and get the big braided SS line connected.

 

I read stuff like this and wonder wtf people are (not) thinking? The place to be discussing it is with MazMart first and getting their input on their product in conjunction with any other mods you made.

 

PM'd Paul yesterday.

 

Solved the oil pressure problem. Turns out it just came down to where I had tapped into the system with the modified banjo bolt. Initially had the gauge reading from the front cover, not its on the banjo on the oil filter stand. Makes sense to me after the fact as usual. There was a thread specifically about the banjo bolts and where to place them for oil pressure/temp but no one ever posted their results or why to put what sensor where.

These are my results with an Autometer Sport Comp Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge (0-150psi)
with Mazmart oil pressure regulator and 3 shims in front regulator.

Reading from the front cover banjo bolt location:
Cold start: Spike to 150psi
Cold Idle: 70-80psi
Warm Start/Idle 25psi
4000RPM 130-150 psi
Cruising at 3500rpm in 6th 120psi

Reading from oil filter stalk banjo bolt location
Cold start spike to 100psi
Warm start/idle 25psi
4000rpm 80psi
Full throttle Max 120psi

 

Thanks smutterbutter, great info!

 

Thank you rx8 club! Couldn't have done it without you and a little help from my good friend Cobb AP.

 

If you read the factory Manual (Mazda) all rotaries 'engine' oil pressure is measured for all reference at Oil Filter area (or end iron in case of S2, same area but no oil filter mount).

 

That makes sense now. Oh well, it was a cool experiment. Thought I had some serious issues there for a moment when I was consistently pegging 150psi. Now the weird thing is at warm idle I'll see oil pressures around only 20psi. So far been using Autozone conventional 5W-30 and just finished my 3rd oil change in 700miles. Maybe I'll try bumping up to something a little thicker next time.

 

Keep getting P0610 along with various other issues that I think all can be traced back to the PCM being toast. Now I'm looking at options for replacing it...lmao! Dealer wants $1200 for part/labor so that's last resort territory for sure. I see some have sent their PCM to be "fixed" with good results, some buy kits off ebay that include PCM, ignition, key, and sometimes even door locks. Any opinions or guidance with this issue would be appreciated.

 

Hi Smutter, shoot me your full VIN and I will check and give you exact part number needed, Don't go buying a used ECU until you know all details needed.

And yes, your OP experiment was interesting, thanks.

 

This is from Mazda on P0610..
• PCM Configuration procedure has not been completed.
• PCM malfunction

Did 'the' 'a' Dealer actually try and re-configure your PCM/ECU?..
Anyway if it fails Configuration, then your only option is to renew ECU.

 

These DTC' are stored in ECU, so I would make sure you clear them completely first, and then re-try and see if it throws another/same code.

The old disconnect Ground on Battery and stomp on brake pedal is OK, but to really be certain, this guys jumper lead is a good one (+ to - ,even though it is for a Ford), Mazda still uses Ford IDS (even today, and about the only thing they do use from Ford now).


If this fails then definitely a replacement ECU.

 

They wanted $100 to attempt the reconfiguration. The tech actually came out and talked to me and said he's never seen one work and made it sound like he's seen many. So I figured I'd just apply that cash to either a repaired PCM, used replacement, or shiny new one from Mazda depending on which route I ended up taking.

I feel like I've done several brake stomp resets that I know worked with a little sweep of the oil gauge. Today I took out the PCM, cleaned all the connections, reconnected everything. Battery has been out for almost a day. Tomorrow I'll do another brake stomp reset and even the jumper wire method in the video you posted if the reset doesn't fix it.

In the meantime I'll shoot you my VIN just so I know what to look for if/when I have to find a replacement.

 

Just linking the two threads for those who may not know ...

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...ty-pcm-258628/

 

No probs..
Just PM me your full VIN and I will do some checking, thought I would just ask this too, nothing else on your RX-8's CAN has been modified or altered?, or swapped, like instrument cluster, Wiring Harnesses, IMMO or Keys/Transmitters?
Just thought I would ask now...