sure did

 

Lebren

 

I just want to confirm the value of "Searching the DAMN forum!!!!!"

my SSV solenoid is failing but I don't use the 1 for my air pump so problem solved.....duh

I just went for a drive and there were major hesitation at 4500rpm....failure confirmed

 

Did you just swap the plugs and move the vacuum line?

 

I was thinking of moving the vacuum line but I guess I can swap the plug....thanks why you get paid the big bucks

 

as the hot gets closer and I start to drive harder, may have to break down

 

^ how much .? Man I have to stop doing little more and more on my car I have a RX3 that I need to dump ALOT of money into and you keep posting goodies lmao,,,

 

$90 from etrailer.com

 

I keep telling people--dont worry about the oil temps until they get to 250F or so.
If you keep the engine coolant temps 210F and below the oil will not get hotter than that--guranteed. If you have that much difference in the oil and ect ( 40 degrees) then something is wrong.
Getting the oil cooler will not help with coolant temps. Maybe a tad--but not enough to matter.
Spend the money instead in getting that a/c condensor moved to a different spot and doing things to cool that engine bay. NOT a vented hood. Those that I have seen dont work on getting the heat generated by the fans out.

 

I can't get my oil temps above 205F or so and the highest my coolant temps have gotten since I got the FAL fans is about 206F and that was yesterday in 103F weather in traffic with the AC on. I'm a happy camper.

 

I am not getting that cooler as a oil cooler but as a 2nd radiator....
My coolant temps are good under normal spirited driving but if I was on a hill county cruise in 95+deg weather I would be seeing 215-220 easy and my "high" oil are due to faulty guage not acutality.

hell no to the vented hood, not my cup of tea


dude, I think you need to revisit your oil temp from the pan.....I just cant see 205 being your max oil temp, with boost in 100deg weather.....I know you want factual data :p

 

BTW took my sunroof apart yesterday......holy crap that is going to suck to fix

the gears on 1 of the drive cable is stripped so needless to say I just put it back together and worry about that later

 

I still have the adapter for the drain plug, I can add a ton of different gauge modules to my PLX so maybe I will add an oil temp module as well. One cannot have to much data to over analyze and obsess over

 

I agree....data is good

I am just concerned that either your reading is inaccurate or your oil cooler isnt doing ****

 

Nah, my gauge seem to be working fine. temps rise slowly to the oil thermostat opening temp (180F) and then stabilize there. I'm hardly in boost so even when I am it only bumps the temps up a bit. I just think my secondary radiator, fans, and radiator are working so good at cooling the engine that it is keeping my oil temps right around 180-190F.

The real test will be in the Hill country @ 100F+ ambient temps when I'm staying in second gear the whole time through the tight sections, taking the revs up high.

 

Oh --ok --but that may not be a good design for a higher flowing coolant radiator? Great for oil though.
I like summit racings open fin 7x21inch design with big *** tubes
What is that flow rate on that oil cooler?

 

Something like this should work. It probably won't hold up to rocks as well though. Cheap too.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/3818/10002/-1

 

are you talking this one OD? seems more restricting?

 

right, mine is a tad smalled at 7.5 inches by 21. I beleive the one pictured is the 10.5 inch x 21 type?
Its actually less restricted--the coolant tubes have the break up inserts in them that break up the flow of the coolant so that you dont just get surface cooling of the coolant itself. The tubes are much larger and the fins are very very open. That allows airflow past it with little restriction.
I mounted mine on the front support beam--hard mount and that lets that big beam act as a huge heatsink. If you end up doing a secondary radiator ( and I think eveyone on the street needs one) dont forget to install a separate thermostat for it.

 

I assume you cut out the front grill to open it up?

also why the 2nd thermostat, couldnt to just circulate all the time without harm?

 

Because it's on the heater circuit so it's always cooling. Doesn't seem to be an issue now but it may be at speed in the winter. I have decided to wait and see before I add one.

 

is your 2nd radiator pre or post heater ?

 

After. The feed to mine is from the heater core pipe that comes through the firewall on the passenger side. It then return to the thermostat housing.

 

and the concern is that with the heater running and 2 open radiators it will almost certaily result in over cooling? (sorry just want to understand )

 

I read up a bit on overcooling and I have determined that you cannot really overcool a rotary. The oil can be too cold but as long as it is over 160F (according to email from Mobil1) the oil will work fine. But honestly even with the secondary cooler, coolant temps stay above the Mazmart thermostat rating and my oil pretty much stays around 180F-200F range. It's hot here and these funky buggers run hot so overcooling is not happening.