Installing a GReddy turbo kit on a Renesis motor, (now the question) the original design of this motor, does it allow for a turbo without sacrificing reliability?

 

when you add FI to any N/A engine you will always lose some reliability because of the added strain on the engine, doesnt matter if its a rotary, big 8, or a small inline 4.

 

You might want to add an extra Dowel or 2 to 2 corners to strengthen the housing.

 

not to sure about how necessary the greddy oil pan(besides being convient) is but things I'd make sure is both the bov and something to tune the car. I personally like the cobb that mm has.

 

The added heat of operation with a FI system is the most detrimental item to engine reliability, therefore the larger capacity Greddy oil pan is a good thing.

 

I seem to recall that the greddy oil pan has about a half quart more oil than stock.

 

^ Exactly. Its larger capacity and thick walled [heat sink] construction effectively serves as a secondary oil cooler, promoting reliability in FI applications.

 

Which one contains more beer?

 

water temp and oil temp gauges for those hot days in summer are nice to ^_^

 

Maybe outside the scope of your question but a good read nevertheless ....

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/how-make-your-renesis-turbo-sc-engine-last-187240/

 

I can haz turbo?

 

The thin walled beer can obviously doesn't have the thermal insulating mass of the aluminum engine block or Greddy oil pan, so its instantaneous heat transfer is more rapid. However (you knew there was going to be a however), the large mass of the block/pan has a far better sustained heat sink transfer rate, promoting reliability.

You can only rent beer. For the long haul oil is far better.

 

compraaationZ t00 l0Wz ?

 

i have reason to believe the tester was faulty even more now.. I won't know for sure until we try it on a known good motor.... like hmm.. YOURS!!!!? that you barely had on for 2-3months?!!!!

 

^ Confusing beer can 'insulation' with thermal mass sink heat dissipation. Beer in a can in ambient air starts out cold ("instantaneous measurement") but is quickly a heat absorber. Heat moves to cold.

Example: old style heavy iron radiators in the home are still the best for efficient heat transfer; hot water or steam transferring that heat to room air.

Example 2: radiators in cars are not as heavy, but rather rely on their much larger multi-finned aggregate surface area.

The Greddy oil pan under discussion relies on dense thermal mass and larger volume to transfer this heat on a continuous basis. As we know it takes quite some time to heat the oil (thermal inertia), but once hot it needs to transfer that heat efficiently and for a prolonged period to protect the engine's components, and therefore provide best reliability.

Heat is the enemy and is exacerbated by FI applications.

WTF, I'm supporting BHR's recommendations.

 

pales to insignificance when you have pulled the engine a few times which many turbo owners will end up doing LOL .....

 

hmmm..so adding a can and a half of beer to my oil will keep it cool? sweet!


Actually, I've had no problems with heat on my setup. So no need to waste beer!

 

I was responding to this BHR recommendation, with which I agree.

 

If I could make a comment without stepping on anyone's toes, race roots has a beautifully designed oil pan. added oil capacity without the depth of greddy's george foreman grill.... secondly, the drain bung is in the rear

seems worth the extra loot for the race roots pan.

and per op's question, FI is only as good as the tune, say bye to "9000 rpm" revs you're used to with NA.

 

I don't care anymore either, and I thought it was a discussion.

 

Yes, that Race Roots oil pan is very nice:

http://raceroots.com/index.php/produ...y-oil-pan.html

Almost double the capacity, yet only 1/4" lower. Nice baffles too, to help prevent G-loaded oil starvation. Only thing better is a dry sump system.

 

It's a high compression motor and not designed for a turbo.

Check around you will find that a lower compression motor is best.

You will also generate alot more heat which is a problem.

I think the longest I have seen a turbo last is 50k miles and I'm not sure about that.

I have never seen anyone post.... Here's my turbo RX8 that lasted 100k miles after the install.

 

And you want to lug around an extra 9 pounds of oil for what reason, exactly?

Which would put it squarely into just about every speed bump in Phoenix and Vegas.

We don't have "g-loaded" oil starvation on the rotary.

Wrong.

Wrong.

Still wrong.

Indeed, still completely wrong.

 

^ahahaha win

 

MAn are u funny MM

Doesn't generate more heat.
And still no proof of a turbo over 50k on the forum.
Lower compression is better.

He must be high on his Avitar today.

Mu ha ha.............