RX8 turbo reliability
01-19-2010, 08:01 AM
#1
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RX8 turbo reliability
Installing a GReddy turbo kit on a Renesis motor, (now the question) the original design of this motor, does it allow for a turbo without sacrificing reliability?
01-19-2010, 01:38 PM
#10
Maybe outside the scope of your question but a good read nevertheless ....
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/how-make-your-renesis-turbo-sc-engine-last-187240/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/how-make-your-renesis-turbo-sc-engine-last-187240/
01-20-2010, 06:10 AM
#12
The thin walled beer can obviously doesn't have the thermal insulating mass of the aluminum engine block or Greddy oil pan, so its instantaneous heat transfer is more rapid. However (you knew there was going to be a however), the large mass of the block/pan has a far better sustained heat sink transfer rate, promoting reliability.
You can only rent beer. For the long haul oil is far better.
You can only rent beer. For the long haul oil is far better.
01-20-2010, 11:26 AM
#15
^ Confusing beer can 'insulation' with thermal mass sink heat dissipation. Beer in a can in ambient air starts out cold ("instantaneous measurement") but is quickly a heat absorber. Heat moves to cold.
Example: old style heavy iron radiators in the home are still the best for efficient heat transfer; hot water or steam transferring that heat to room air.
Example 2: radiators in cars are not as heavy, but rather rely on their much larger multi-finned aggregate surface area.
The Greddy oil pan under discussion relies on dense thermal mass and larger volume to transfer this heat on a continuous basis. As we know it takes quite some time to heat the oil (thermal inertia), but once hot it needs to transfer that heat efficiently and for a prolonged period to protect the engine's components, and therefore provide best reliability.
Heat is the enemy and is exacerbated by FI applications.
WTF, I'm supporting BHR's recommendations.
Example: old style heavy iron radiators in the home are still the best for efficient heat transfer; hot water or steam transferring that heat to room air.
Example 2: radiators in cars are not as heavy, but rather rely on their much larger multi-finned aggregate surface area.
The Greddy oil pan under discussion relies on dense thermal mass and larger volume to transfer this heat on a continuous basis. As we know it takes quite some time to heat the oil (thermal inertia), but once hot it needs to transfer that heat efficiently and for a prolonged period to protect the engine's components, and therefore provide best reliability.
Heat is the enemy and is exacerbated by FI applications.
WTF, I'm supporting BHR's recommendations.
Last edited by Huey52; 01-20-2010 at 11:28 AM.
01-20-2010, 01:13 PM
#17
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01-20-2010, 01:58 PM
#18
I was responding to this BHR recommendation, with which I agree.
The GReddy Turbo Kit will work fine with the Renesis provided it is tuned properly and your potential reliability is improved if you get a few add-ons, such as the GReddy Oil Pan and a BOV (both of which should have been included in the kit anyway). Should you decide to get some sort of "upgraded" turbo you will then want to consider further ancillaries.
01-21-2010, 11:38 PM
#19
If I could make a comment without stepping on anyone's toes, race roots has a beautifully designed oil pan. added oil capacity without the depth of greddy's george foreman grill.... secondly, the drain bung is in the rear
seems worth the extra loot for the race roots pan.
and per op's question, FI is only as good as the tune, say bye to "9000 rpm" revs you're used to with NA.
seems worth the extra loot for the race roots pan.
and per op's question, FI is only as good as the tune, say bye to "9000 rpm" revs you're used to with NA.
01-22-2010, 07:59 AM
#21
Yes, that Race Roots oil pan is very nice:
http://raceroots.com/index.php/produ...y-oil-pan.html
Almost double the capacity, yet only 1/4" lower. Nice baffles too, to help prevent G-loaded oil starvation. Only thing better is a dry sump system.
http://raceroots.com/index.php/produ...y-oil-pan.html
Almost double the capacity, yet only 1/4" lower. Nice baffles too, to help prevent G-loaded oil starvation. Only thing better is a dry sump system.
If I could make a comment without stepping on anyone's toes, race roots has a beautifully designed oil pan. added oil capacity without the depth of greddy's george foreman grill.... secondly, the drain bung is in the rear
seems worth the extra loot for the race roots pan.
and per op's question, FI is only as good as the tune, say bye to "9000 rpm" revs you're used to with NA.
seems worth the extra loot for the race roots pan.
and per op's question, FI is only as good as the tune, say bye to "9000 rpm" revs you're used to with NA.
01-22-2010, 11:34 AM
#22
It's a high compression motor and not designed for a turbo.
Check around you will find that a lower compression motor is best.
You will also generate alot more heat which is a problem.
I think the longest I have seen a turbo last is 50k miles and I'm not sure about that.
I have never seen anyone post.... Here's my turbo RX8 that lasted 100k miles after the install.
Check around you will find that a lower compression motor is best.
You will also generate alot more heat which is a problem.
I think the longest I have seen a turbo last is 50k miles and I'm not sure about that.
I have never seen anyone post.... Here's my turbo RX8 that lasted 100k miles after the install.
01-22-2010, 07:22 PM
#23
And you want to lug around an extra 9 pounds of oil for what reason, exactly?
Which would put it squarely into just about every speed bump in Phoenix and Vegas.
We don't have "g-loaded" oil starvation on the rotary.
Wrong.
Wrong.
Still wrong.
Indeed, still completely wrong.
Which would put it squarely into just about every speed bump in Phoenix and Vegas.
We don't have "g-loaded" oil starvation on the rotary.
Wrong.
Wrong.
Still wrong.
Indeed, still completely wrong.
01-22-2010, 07:28 PM
#25
MAn are u funny MM
Doesn't generate more heat.
And still no proof of a turbo over 50k on the forum.
Lower compression is better.
He must be high on his Avitar today.
Mu ha ha.............
Doesn't generate more heat.
And still no proof of a turbo over 50k on the forum.
Lower compression is better.
He must be high on his Avitar today.
Mu ha ha.............