Renesis Refresh w/Pictures
07-17-2010, 05:14 PM
#1
Boostin'
Thread Starter
Renesis Refresh w/Pictures
We are in the middle of another Renny rebuild and thought we would post a few pics to share. The motor was in running condition but suffered a damaged pilot bearing and E-shaft due to a botched clutch job. The car is located in Florida so we made arrangements for the engine to be shipped. Needless to say, a full rebuild was the logical decision made.
We planned on ordering a new E-shaft but found a used one that passed our inspections. The pics below are from the inspection and ultra sonic cleaning of the shaft. We resurfaced the irons and are using new rotor housings to ensure the engine will have the same sealing power and service life as it had when brand new. Of course we had to clean up the ports a bit, and added some coatings in there with our stud kit as well to add some extra efficiency. I will take a few more pics of the build and post them later perhaps.
It's always satisfying when owners decide to do proper rebuilds, and we are very confident this engine will perform great for him.
We planned on ordering a new E-shaft but found a used one that passed our inspections. The pics below are from the inspection and ultra sonic cleaning of the shaft. We resurfaced the irons and are using new rotor housings to ensure the engine will have the same sealing power and service life as it had when brand new. Of course we had to clean up the ports a bit, and added some coatings in there with our stud kit as well to add some extra efficiency. I will take a few more pics of the build and post them later perhaps.
It's always satisfying when owners decide to do proper rebuilds, and we are very confident this engine will perform great for him.
07-17-2010, 05:53 PM
#3
Boostin'
Thread Starter
http://turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=82
Renesis irons are a bit different than RX-7 irons when it comes to resurfacing. You don't have to worry about decreasing the height of the water jacket seal grooves. This makes some irons that would be 'borderline' for an ordinary 13B, become salvageable if you have a high amount of stepped wear. Other than that there are no major clearances that will be affected. We generally take off .003" of an inch or until all wear grooves are removed.
07-17-2010, 06:01 PM
#4
I see in your blurb on the stud kit you say they are "a must for turbocharged" engines . My understanding was that dowelling would be far superior to just putting better studs in ?
My engine builder told me not to resurface the irons due to the limited depth of the hardened layer .....
My engine builder told me not to resurface the irons due to the limited depth of the hardened layer .....
07-17-2010, 06:41 PM
#5
I have read the opposite "studs are better than dowels" since they remove less material from the plates, which weakens the castings?
so when do you make the decision to open a "good" running motor for a rebuild?
I have a 2nd motor that has 30000km could be effected by low compression as it is a early production motor so far it is ok.
I'm worried about refreshing the motor since rebuilds can turn up problems and the parts list quickly grows and so does the rebuild cost.
so when do you make the decision to open a "good" running motor for a rebuild?
I have a 2nd motor that has 30000km could be effected by low compression as it is a early production motor so far it is ok.
I'm worried about refreshing the motor since rebuilds can turn up problems and the parts list quickly grows and so does the rebuild cost.
07-25-2010, 12:44 AM
#6
Boostin'
Thread Starter
I see in your blurb on the stud kit you say they are "a must for turbocharged" engines . My understanding was that dowelling would be far superior to just putting better studs in ?
My engine builder told me not to resurface the irons due to the limited depth of the hardened layer .....
My engine builder told me not to resurface the irons due to the limited depth of the hardened layer .....
Its the same thing when rebuilding a piston engine; you hone the cylinder bores.
07-25-2010, 12:49 AM
#7
Boostin'
Thread Starter
I have read the opposite "studs are better than dowels" since they remove less material from the plates, which weakens the castings?
so when do you make the decision to open a "good" running motor for a rebuild?
I have a 2nd motor that has 30000km could be effected by low compression as it is a early production motor so far it is ok.
I'm worried about refreshing the motor since rebuilds can turn up problems and the parts list quickly grows and so does the rebuild cost.
so when do you make the decision to open a "good" running motor for a rebuild?
I have a 2nd motor that has 30000km could be effected by low compression as it is a early production motor so far it is ok.
I'm worried about refreshing the motor since rebuilds can turn up problems and the parts list quickly grows and so does the rebuild cost.
The biggest thing the studs limit is engine expansion on its axis line. If you ever run a turbo engine on a engine dyno and put a strain gauge on it, you will see the engine will expand during a pull with the oem bolts. It will not with our stud kit.
P.S. MM runs our studs in his latest engine
)
07-27-2010, 08:03 PM
#11
Boostin'
Thread Starter
http://www.blackmambarotarybug.com/
the oem bolts were coming loose after just one pass, no longer a problem with our stud kit
The Falken Drift Cars also run our stud kits too...
07-29-2010, 02:17 PM
#12
So the big question here is...how much can/should we torque these bolts down to? And can the stock tension bolt o-ring/seals reliably withstand the additional torque for long?
I've seen 45 ft-lbs up to 50 ft-lbs (race only), but what's the sweet spot for a street/strip setup where we can benefit the most from the increased clamping force (by way of the increased torque) that these bolts offer us?
Last thing, what about the stock outer tension bolts that are still used, do we torque them down the same as the studs or go with the stock torque specs?
I've seen 45 ft-lbs up to 50 ft-lbs (race only), but what's the sweet spot for a street/strip setup where we can benefit the most from the increased clamping force (by way of the increased torque) that these bolts offer us?
Last thing, what about the stock outer tension bolts that are still used, do we torque them down the same as the studs or go with the stock torque specs?
07-29-2010, 04:22 PM
#14
Super Moderator
Back in the early years ALL warranty claims for Coolant Seals failures the Factory insisted all Side Housings (irons) be resurfaced...every one. (10A, 12A, 13B).
And naturally all new small parts, interestingly we Never replaced Rotors, if they were not damaged they were cleaned and reused, in some cases Oversized Corner Seals (0.2 and 0.003) (10A, 12A) were used after Reaming the Rotor Corner Seal inset with our Factory Reamer Jig Set.
And naturally all new small parts, interestingly we Never replaced Rotors, if they were not damaged they were cleaned and reused, in some cases Oversized Corner Seals (0.2 and 0.003) (10A, 12A) were used after Reaming the Rotor Corner Seal inset with our Factory Reamer Jig Set.
07-29-2010, 06:09 PM
#16
Well, I am the one that BEATS on the engine!
And, be fair, putting the Turblown studs into the iron was one of the things that I did participate in when the motor was rebuilt.
That said, I don't know what kind of feedback I could give other than:
a) The studs seem very substantial
b) They were installed with absolutely NO incident
c) In my opinion, they could only be an improvement; and
d) I haven't nuked the motor, so I can't tell you if they are awesome or if I am just "lucky"
My last four motors all came apart for different reasons, all of which were not related to tuning, so it is difficult to quantify and durability claims.
I will definitely be using them from now on. That might be and indication that is worth something, I suppose.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 07-29-2010 at 06:11 PM.
07-29-2010, 06:39 PM
#17
Ouch.
Well, I am the one that BEATS on the engine!
And, be fair, putting the Turblown studs into the iron was one of the things that I did participate in when the motor was rebuilt.
That said, I don't know what kind of feedback I could give other than:
a) The studs seem very substantial
b) They were installed with absolutely NO incident
c) In my opinion, they could only be an improvement; and
d) I haven't nuked the motor, so I can't tell you if they are awesome or if I am just "lucky"
My last four motors all came apart for different reasons, all of which were not related to tuning, so it is difficult to quantify and durability claims.
I will definitely be using them from now on. That might be and indication that is worth something, I suppose.
Well, I am the one that BEATS on the engine!
And, be fair, putting the Turblown studs into the iron was one of the things that I did participate in when the motor was rebuilt.
That said, I don't know what kind of feedback I could give other than:
a) The studs seem very substantial
b) They were installed with absolutely NO incident
c) In my opinion, they could only be an improvement; and
d) I haven't nuked the motor, so I can't tell you if they are awesome or if I am just "lucky"
My last four motors all came apart for different reasons, all of which were not related to tuning, so it is difficult to quantify and durability claims.
I will definitely be using them from now on. That might be and indication that is worth something, I suppose.
And what did you guys end up torquing them down to?
07-29-2010, 07:58 PM
#18
Ouch.
Well, I am the one that BEATS on the engine!
And, be fair, putting the Turblown studs into the iron was one of the things that I did participate in when the motor was rebuilt.
That said, I don't know what kind of feedback I could give other than:
a) The studs seem very substantial
b) They were installed with absolutely NO incident
c) In my opinion, they could only be an improvement; and
d) I haven't nuked the motor, so I can't tell you if they are awesome or if I am just "lucky"
My last four motors all came apart for different reasons, all of which were not related to tuning, so it is difficult to quantify and durability claims.
I will definitely be using them from now on. That might be and indication that is worth something, I suppose.
Well, I am the one that BEATS on the engine!
And, be fair, putting the Turblown studs into the iron was one of the things that I did participate in when the motor was rebuilt.
That said, I don't know what kind of feedback I could give other than:
a) The studs seem very substantial
b) They were installed with absolutely NO incident
c) In my opinion, they could only be an improvement; and
d) I haven't nuked the motor, so I can't tell you if they are awesome or if I am just "lucky"
My last four motors all came apart for different reasons, all of which were not related to tuning, so it is difficult to quantify and durability claims.
I will definitely be using them from now on. That might be and indication that is worth something, I suppose.
FWIW - neither of my engine failures was related to tuning either .
07-30-2010, 10:42 PM
#19
Boostin'
Thread Starter
So the big question here is...how much can/should we torque these bolts down to? And can the stock tension bolt o-ring/seals reliably withstand the additional torque for long?
I've seen 45 ft-lbs up to 50 ft-lbs (race only), but what's the sweet spot for a street/strip setup where we can benefit the most from the increased clamping force (by way of the increased torque) that these bolts offer us?
Last thing, what about the stock outer tension bolts that are still used, do we torque them down the same as the studs or go with the stock torque specs?
I've seen 45 ft-lbs up to 50 ft-lbs (race only), but what's the sweet spot for a street/strip setup where we can benefit the most from the increased clamping force (by way of the increased torque) that these bolts offer us?
Last thing, what about the stock outer tension bolts that are still used, do we torque them down the same as the studs or go with the stock torque specs?
07-31-2010, 11:42 PM
#22
Boostin'
Thread Starter
A semi synthetic thermal barrier & oil attraction coating that we offer.
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=98
More assembly photos
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=98
More assembly photos
Last edited by Turblown; 07-31-2010 at 11:54 PM.
08-01-2010, 02:21 PM
#23
Going for broke
This is a pretty interesting thread about replacing the stock tension bolts with something more substantial. Before I had my REW block rebuilt this was something that I had looked into and will be something that I upgrade the next time around as I decide to see how well things would hold up with the stock tension bolts.
08-01-2010, 02:22 PM
#24
Going for broke
A semi synthetic thermal barrier & oil attraction coating that we offer.
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=98
More assembly photos
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=98
More assembly photos
08-04-2010, 02:11 PM
#25
Boostin'
Thread Starter
Below is our standard procedure of pumping the entire engine full of oil before it is spun over. We use a small external oil pump that we have built. When a new engine, or an engine that has been sitting for a long time is first started it takes a while to fill all the cavities( takes over 2 quarts to fill the engine!). During this time you experience a lot of engine bearing wear on uncoated bearings. We finish with a compression test. This is the highest we have ever seen for a rebuilt renesis. Its going to be Stellar once broken in.