Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech
12-24-2009, 09:00 AM
#1051
Sydney, Australia
Anyone notice that the pellet was introduced about the same time emissions became mandatory? I think the pellet's function is to rapidly increase combustion chamber temps thus reducing NO and other nasties sooner. I've worked on a few engines pre-emission (a '72 RX-2 springs to mind) that did not have a pellet at all.
On another note - I found that the Purolator One filter for the 2nd gen is about 3x larger by volume than the stock FD / SE filter, and actually fits in the space allotted. It's also for some reason cheaper than the Pure One filter for the SE. However, it bypasses at 12-15PSI and not 14-18 PSI. :shrug:
On another note - I found that the Purolator One filter for the 2nd gen is about 3x larger by volume than the stock FD / SE filter, and actually fits in the space allotted. It's also for some reason cheaper than the Pure One filter for the SE. However, it bypasses at 12-15PSI and not 14-18 PSI. :shrug:
Should I keep using that Filter if I fit one of these kits? I'm not entirely sure the taller S2 filter will fit given the existing adapter plate...
12-24-2009, 10:06 AM
#1053
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Anyone notice that the pellet was introduced about the same time emissions became mandatory? I think the pellet's function is to rapidly increase combustion chamber temps thus reducing NO and other nasties sooner. I've worked on a few engines pre-emission (a '72 RX-2 springs to mind) that did not have a pellet at all.
On another note - I found that the Purolator One filter for the 2nd gen is about 3x larger by volume than the stock FD / SE filter, and actually fits in the space allotted. It's also for some reason cheaper than the Pure One filter for the SE. However, it bypasses at 12-15PSI and not 14-18 PSI. :shrug:
On another note - I found that the Purolator One filter for the 2nd gen is about 3x larger by volume than the stock FD / SE filter, and actually fits in the space allotted. It's also for some reason cheaper than the Pure One filter for the SE. However, it bypasses at 12-15PSI and not 14-18 PSI. :shrug:
Bypass pressure (kPa {kgf/cm2, psi}) {1.43—1.83, 20.3—26.1}
12-26-2009, 05:50 AM
#1054
Sydney, Australia
Sorry I should have put that in - I'm using 10-40 weight full synthetic oil (and Amsoil Sabre Pro in the fuel)
12-26-2009, 09:13 AM
#1056
wush!!
get out there--that is what they make long johns for !!
I am a fool but i have worked outside on mine in light Ga snow and while the tornado sirens where going off (we didnt have one but the county next to us did).
so GET OUT THERE!!
jk dude
OD
get out there--that is what they make long johns for !!I am a fool but i have worked outside on mine in light Ga snow and while the tornado sirens where going off (we didnt have one but the county next to us did).
so GET OUT THERE!!
jk dude
OD
12-26-2009, 01:43 PM
#1057
I have an S1 and I tend to favour the K&N Oil filter - mainly because the built in nut on the top makes for easy removal within the reduced space due to my Racing Beat gauges adapter. The model is 1008 and its bypass is rated at 11-17 PSI - which figure seems to straddle the figures for the two OEM filters.
Should I keep using that Filter if I fit one of these kits? I'm not entirely sure the taller S2 filter will fit given the existing adapter plate...
Should I keep using that Filter if I fit one of these kits? I'm not entirely sure the taller S2 filter will fit given the existing adapter plate...
12-26-2009, 01:47 PM
#1059
I have an S1 and I tend to favour the K&N Oil filter - mainly because the built in nut on the top makes for easy removal within the reduced space due to my Racing Beat gauges adapter. The model is 1008 and its bypass is rated at 11-17 PSI - which figure seems to straddle the figures for the two OEM filters.
Should I keep using that Filter if I fit one of these kits? I'm not entirely sure the taller S2 filter will fit given the existing adapter plate...
Should I keep using that Filter if I fit one of these kits? I'm not entirely sure the taller S2 filter will fit given the existing adapter plate...
12-26-2009, 02:03 PM
#1061
What other options exist for connecting oil pressure and temperature gauges on the S1, other than the sandwich adapter? Are there any? I also plan to implement the S2 filter; but I have yet to install oil temperature or pressure gauges and want to know my options, if any.
There has been some discussion about the best place for putting a temp sensor...but IMHO it doesn't really matter...as long as you know what the number means....I like mine in the oil pan...cause that gives me the "soaked" temp of the oil...but others like them in a more "engine gallery" position
12-26-2009, 05:19 PM
#1062
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The only thing I'm not keen on with Filtermags is that a lot of the better quality oils are using slightly magnetic dry-lubricant films, to get them to 'stick' to the engine internals and provide more protection on startup - depending on the particle size, there is a slight possibility of the FilterMag pulling it out of suspension.
12-26-2009, 05:39 PM
#1063
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Thread Starter
Frankly, I think the "slightly magnetic dry-lubricant films" is a non issue and crap.
I seriously doubt Filtermag would sell this product for all these years if it was an issue...think about the litigation aspect in the USA.
Second, if it was an issue then why did Mazda re-introduce an Internal Oil Pan MAGNET in the S2 RX-8, taken from the FC RX-7 ????..
The R1 or R2?, I can't think of what Filtermag means...
As I have said before the SS250 or HP250 will fit on all S1 RX-8's..
The HP250 will not fit on the S2 (because of different Oil Filter Location and the HP250 is too thick).
Filtermag site is incorrect for the 2009 model RX-8.
I use the HP250, but had to remove the outer case to make them fit, so I only use the magnetic strips.
I have also opened up an oil filter can case, and all I see attached to the magnets are micro fine metal particles and a few larger bits of metal...that is all.
12-26-2009, 05:44 PM
#1064
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12-26-2009, 05:53 PM
#1066
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Probably fine for S1, but not S2, that is part of the reason I stay genuine.
12-26-2009, 05:57 PM
#1067
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12-26-2009, 05:59 PM
#1068
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If you search for 2007 Mazda RX-8 it says R2.....Series II did not even exist in 2007.
12-26-2009, 06:03 PM
#1069
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12-26-2009, 06:17 PM
#1070
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So, that sample might have some skewed results. If not, I should be able to show if the filter mag seriously reduces particle suspension in my engine.
Based on the viscosity loss of the Eneos 0w-20 I'll be deciding which of their oil lineup I'll be using from now on. I'm also going to be switching from the K&N to the purolator oil filters after seeing a couple independent filter tests. For the amount of cash I spend on the K&N compared to it's performance I wasn't very thrilled seeing the test results.
So, there should be some welcomed changes coming soon. It took 90,000 miles to get to this point but better late then never.
12-26-2009, 07:43 PM
#1071
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I rec'd 15 http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY042SH magnets today, stuck them to a Wix filter and did an oil change with Rotella 10W30. I'll run a test in 2,000 miles. i am at 37k miles now with unknown maint from the prior two owners. This is my 3rd oil change in 4,ooo miles - I plan to do every 2k from now on with heavier weight in summer.
I emailed KJMagnetics to ask how much pulling power they have. 30 would have easily fit on the filter - 15 went half way around.
I emailed KJMagnetics to ask how much pulling power they have. 30 would have easily fit on the filter - 15 went half way around.
12-26-2009, 08:28 PM
#1072
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I rec'd 15 http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY042SH magnets today, stuck them to a Wix filter and did an oil change with Rotella 10W30. I'll run a test in 2,000 miles. i am at 37k miles now with unknown maint from the prior two owners. This is my 3rd oil change in 4,ooo miles - I plan to do every 2k from now on with heavier weight in summer.
I can see doing a change when you get the car and then another in 2,000 miles to change out the majority of the previous oil but anything more than that is overkill.
12-26-2009, 08:41 PM
#1073
Nature vs. Nurture
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But I am getting lots of froth in my oil. I have blocked my two oil coolers, run the car at least 25 minutes at a time and run up the revs toward the end of every trip. Last week I went and did three 0-60 pulls up a steep hill and that almost got rid of the froth. At a loss here how to keep my oil good....