djfa

iTrader: (3)

Im just curious to what this could be. When Im driving my daily drive I have no complaints at all. Sometimes I feel crazy and I stay in high RPM ranges for moderate periods of time. That gets the engine hotter than my highway cruise control. It is only then that I feel a power loss and the needle studders around 6k then keeps going. I seem to have to give more gas to get the same or even less acceleration. So when I notice that I feel it also gets hotter in the cabin through the heater ducts. Then I decide to slow down and keep it low rpm to cool it off.

I checked my coolant level is fine and was recently flushed. Coils plugs wires are 5k old, MAF is clean and brand new K&N filter. My car is an 04 with 50Kmiles regular oil changes with upgraded starter and new cat from last year.

Is this something you guys noticed as well? WHy does it do it only when the engine is really hot? Am i just being paranoid? I dont want to take it to the dealer and then they find nothing wrong, make me pay 100$ and send me on my way home.

djfa

iTrader: (3)

anyone? it did it again today when i was gunning the car... had to slow down i feel heat coming from everywhere in the cabin

swoope

iTrader: (5)

wow,

lots of threads started and you still dont have a clue..


beers

Spoolin8

iTrader: (2)

you only have to pay 100 bucks to find out whats wrong and obviously something is wrong.... like that you need a new engine

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Hmm.... high RPM = Higher heat. . . so when you gun it, it creates more heat. . . And, this should go without saying, but Heat = Bad

6K rpm is when the 2nd set of fuel injectors kick on (the yellows I think) so that's the hesitation there... if these are bad, leaking, or otherwise running too lean, you're engine will run hotter and your'll get power loss.

That's possible....

The other more likely instance is low compression... take it to a dealer for compression test and try to get a new engine under warranty.

Silverisk8

iTrader: (1)

Vyndictive is right.... just take it to the dealer and have them check that compression

climacus

My guess is your cat is plugged up.

Razz1

Ports open up at 6250

Clean your MAF, the K&N comes with too much oil on the filter.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

my guess is that you are correct

Mazurfer

My guess is that your guess of his guess is correct.
Wonder if it's glowing red? I'll bet it is!

djfa

iTrader: (3)

it is not i checked a gazillion times. Anyways i got a AP midpipe coming in soon so if that doesnt fix it...

lilring

iTrader: (11)

Do some cooling mods then

@!!narotordo

Stop. You are over heating your car. This is why mazmart bhr and so many others made ignition coil kits to help top end miss fire. Thats what you have. So replace the coils or get a timing gun and check your stock coils for break up.

Old Rotor

Is this a M/T or A/T? Have you Seafoamed it?

Mr.We$t

iTrader: (1)

I used a timing gun this past week and I'm not sure if I did it correctly I attatched the battery leads and hooked the first wire into the clip then I pulled the trigger and the light flashed like crazy is that good or bad

djfa

iTrader: (3)

yeah its a 2004 MT. I had it cleaned with mazda zoom zoom cleaner at the dealer (cost 220 bucks ouch). Everything is new and clean. Plugs, coils, wires, new K&N drop in, clean MAF, reset fuel trims. that was done at 82000km and i got the car at 79000km. I know that when i got the car last october the CAT was changed 6 months back. Is it possible that it was slowly decaying from bad ignition and that when i got the car and changed everything it just stabelized its decaying process?

I really doubt its compression because I dont have hard warm starts. I do have the occasional 3 secs crank with the upgraded starter.

I feel less power when the engine has been abused. Its not as bad when the engine is cold but the low rpm torque is terrible. It litterally takes me 7 secs. to go from 110km/h to 120km/h. That is not normal imo. Even 4th gear when im cruising at 60km/h and I mash the gas pedal it is so slow to accelerate i just feel like the engine is sucking air and not producing power.

If it gets worse when its hot is it a bad CAT or bad compression? All my ignition system is new and everything is well maintained.

lilring

iTrader: (11)

That is what a timeing light is. It flashes like crazy. its part of the process.

umforder

I am currently having the exact same problems as you. It's at the dealer and they are performing a compression test.

umforder

Compression Test results

Front
6.1
6.1
6.0
@250 rpm

Rear
6.1
6.1
5.8
@250 rpm

They want to decarb and see the results afterwards. Anyone care to comment on these numbers?

djfa

iTrader: (3)

I never actually took the time to take my car to the dealer. I figured that I still have 2 years of warranty remaining so when it gets really really bad then ill take it in for a new motor and ill take ultra good care of it.

good luck with yours

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

Have you ever done the MSP16 PCM flash? I was experiencing some issues with loss of power when I drove the car for more than 2 hours. Since I flashed it, everything works beautiful. If MSP16 is done there should be some sticker under your hood. Take a look on this TSB:

Albmw

I've used the boron nitride thermal coating with some success. Sprayed it all over the engine block and radiator, oil coolers and the compressor. Seems to get rid of the heat much faster. Then I used it on the gearbox later. Anyone else try this??

umforder

My car already had the MSP16 done last summer.

This is the result of the decarb:
Front Rotor
6.1
6.3
6.1

Rear Rotor
6.1
6.3
6.1

all at 250 rpm

Vacuum voltage band 3.92 volts - idle 1.98 volts

They said the test drive went well and I'm headed out for a good drive tonight, so we will see if the problem persists.