Possible New Renesis Engine Failure Theory?
#28
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
My feeling is that deterioration of the lines has more to do with how the car is stored than how many miles it has done .... A garaged car in a mild climate and the lines will last the life of the car . Stored outside in a severe climate - they should be re[placed every x yrs .
#29
Super Moderator
#30
Super Moderator
My feeling is that deterioration of the lines has more to do with how the car is stored than how many miles it has done .... A garaged car in a mild climate and the lines will last the life of the car . Stored outside in a severe climate - they should be re[placed every x yrs .
#32
Super Moderator
Aren't you lucky.
#34
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Pfffft you wish, Im gonna race you when I move there grandma!!!
Side note I did have 3 bad check valves and 4 clogged injectors, at the end of my rebuild only one was salvageable.
Also oil injectors get clogged often and easily. When you rebuild an engine its best to clean them out with some parts cleaner. After cleaning them inspect each one and toss the ones that fail the vacuum test. Thats per RR.
Side note I did have 3 bad check valves and 4 clogged injectors, at the end of my rebuild only one was salvageable.
Also oil injectors get clogged often and easily. When you rebuild an engine its best to clean them out with some parts cleaner. After cleaning them inspect each one and toss the ones that fail the vacuum test. Thats per RR.
#35
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Pfffft you wish, Im gonna race you when I move there grandma!!!
Side note I did have 3 bad check valves and 4 clogged injectors, at the end of my rebuild only one was salvageable.
Also oil injectors get clogged often and easily. When you rebuild an engine its best to clean them out with some parts cleaner. After cleaning them inspect each one and toss the ones that fail the vacuum test. Thats per RR.
Side note I did have 3 bad check valves and 4 clogged injectors, at the end of my rebuild only one was salvageable.
Also oil injectors get clogged often and easily. When you rebuild an engine its best to clean them out with some parts cleaner. After cleaning them inspect each one and toss the ones that fail the vacuum test. Thats per RR.
#38
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I definitley would not go without premix ever. And for you guys under warranty, getting remans, I would definitley pay to have the oil injectors and lines replaced during the install or at least tested. Having these installed with the engine out would have saved me a lot of time and agony. Especially considering I had a seized bolt in the UIM thanks to them not using anti seize when reinstalling it.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-11-2011 at 04:43 PM.
#39
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Yeah I definitley would not go without premix ever. And for you guys under warranty, getting remans, I would definitley pay to have the oil injectors and lines replaced during the install. Having these installed with the engine out would have saved me a lot of time and agony considering I had a seized bolt in the UIM thanks to them not using anti seize when reinstalling it.
I'm going to be installing my OMP over the weekend I think should be exciting.
#40
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
You are installing a SOHN? or new OMP?
I was thinking of doing a DIY on vacuum testing the oil injectors but then I thought most people would probably not tackle that job so I decided not to bother. I was warned to not break the little vacuum block that feed the oil injectors and even though I was careful I still managed to break that. It too was very brittle. Damn Texas heat
#41
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Yeah the steel bolts in the aluminum LIM without anti seize is a bad idea. I was using a 1/4" rachet to remove them and one just sheered off. PIA.
You are installing a SOHN? or new OMP?
I was thinking of doing a DIY on vacuum testing the oil injectors but then I thought most people would probably not tackle that job so I decided not to bother. I was warned to not break the little vacuum block that feed the oil injectors and even though I was careful I still managed to break that. It too was very brittle. Damn Texas heat
You are installing a SOHN? or new OMP?
I was thinking of doing a DIY on vacuum testing the oil injectors but then I thought most people would probably not tackle that job so I decided not to bother. I was warned to not break the little vacuum block that feed the oil injectors and even though I was careful I still managed to break that. It too was very brittle. Damn Texas heat
I'm installing the sohn. well actually I'm test fitting it then sending specs over to a blow mold guy to make me a container that will fit in the airpump housing.
#43
Registered
Ken
#44
I drive at Red Line.
iTrader: (1)
I have some spare SS lines. From when I made my clutch line. I will need to get in there and see exactly what size they are though and make sure they will work. Once it warms up I will get on it and if you decide to do a DIY for the testing of the injectors, I will add on the DIY for making your own lines.
The only issue I can see is that you can't see through the SS lines so you wont be able to monitor inside them. Which would mean you would need to make certain say every time you change your oil, to check the lines for blockage.
Some people rebuild with this: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000168820027
The only issue I can see is that you can't see through the SS lines so you wont be able to monitor inside them. Which would mean you would need to make certain say every time you change your oil, to check the lines for blockage.
Some people rebuild with this: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000168820027
#46
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I have some spare SS lines. From when I made my clutch line. I will need to get in there and see exactly what size they are though and make sure they will work. Once it warms up I will get on it and if you decide to do a DIY for the testing of the injectors, I will add on the DIY for making your own lines.
The only issue I can see is that you can't see through the SS lines so you wont be able to monitor inside them. Which would mean you would need to make certain say every time you change your oil, to check the lines for blockage.
Some people rebuild with this: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000168820027
The only issue I can see is that you can't see through the SS lines so you wont be able to monitor inside them. Which would mean you would need to make certain say every time you change your oil, to check the lines for blockage.
Some people rebuild with this: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000168820027
Redoing these lines would take some real engineering. The lines would probably need to be bent and positioned the exact way the stock lines are. The factory setup is actually very good, but to last past 100k the material just doesn't hold up (in Texas anyway).
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-11-2011 at 11:36 PM.
#48
Registered
iTrader: (3)
just put some heat shield stuff between them and the engine---they can get real hot next to the alternator also.
The oil nozzles have a check valve in them---that is why I was wondering why the heck were there check valves in the banjo fitting to?
I really dont understand how it works. The omp does not put that much pressure on the oil it pumps.
Also to open the banjo fitting check valve I had to push back toward the omp. To tell the truth I didnt check it pushing toward the oil nozzle.
Again why is there a vacuum line to the nozzle? Maybe it is to ensure quick closing of the oil nozzle? But should the oil nozzle ever be complety closed?
What happens if you remove the vacuum there?
What would happen if you removed the banjo fitting check valve?
This is getting really interesting.
It may be better to totally premix?
The oil nozzles have a check valve in them---that is why I was wondering why the heck were there check valves in the banjo fitting to?
I really dont understand how it works. The omp does not put that much pressure on the oil it pumps.
Also to open the banjo fitting check valve I had to push back toward the omp. To tell the truth I didnt check it pushing toward the oil nozzle.
Again why is there a vacuum line to the nozzle? Maybe it is to ensure quick closing of the oil nozzle? But should the oil nozzle ever be complety closed?
What happens if you remove the vacuum there?
What would happen if you removed the banjo fitting check valve?
This is getting really interesting.
It may be better to totally premix?
#49
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
just put some heat shield stuff between them and the engine---they can get real hot next to the alternator also.
The oil nozzles have a check valve in them---that is why I was wondering why the heck were there check valves in the banjo fitting to?
I really dont understand how it works. The omp does not put that much pressure on the oil it pumps.
Also to open the banjo fitting check valve I had to push back toward the omp. To tell the truth I didnt check it pushing toward the oil nozzle.
Again why is there a vacuum line to the nozzle? Maybe it is to ensure quick closing of the oil nozzle? But should the oil nozzle ever be complety closed?
What happens if you remove the vacuum there?
What would happen if you removed the banjo fitting check valve?
This is getting really interesting.
It may be better to totally premix?
The oil nozzles have a check valve in them---that is why I was wondering why the heck were there check valves in the banjo fitting to?
I really dont understand how it works. The omp does not put that much pressure on the oil it pumps.
Also to open the banjo fitting check valve I had to push back toward the omp. To tell the truth I didnt check it pushing toward the oil nozzle.
Again why is there a vacuum line to the nozzle? Maybe it is to ensure quick closing of the oil nozzle? But should the oil nozzle ever be complety closed?
What happens if you remove the vacuum there?
What would happen if you removed the banjo fitting check valve?
This is getting really interesting.
It may be better to totally premix?