overheating or what????
#1
overheating or what????
i just had my engine rebuilded before 400 km and i feel that is running fine,but i noticed that if i push it a little the water temp rises from 92 celsius untill 103-105 celsius.in normal driving conditions,no boost and not more than 3500 rpm is fine,thermosthat and water pump are new,is this normal for a fresh rebuid???
#2
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where are you located?
depending on ambient temp / humidity, that is a bit on the high side but could be in line with what others are experiencing.
105C = 220°F
220 is when still in the 'safe' range but anything above 230 you need to be very careful with.
the water to coolant ratio could also have an effect on temps.
depending on ambient temp / humidity, that is a bit on the high side but could be in line with what others are experiencing.
105C = 220°F
220 is when still in the 'safe' range but anything above 230 you need to be very careful with.
the water to coolant ratio could also have an effect on temps.
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i just had my engine rebuilded before 400 km and i feel that is running fine,but i noticed that if i push it a little the water temp rises from 92 celsius untill 103-105 celsius.in normal driving conditions,no boost and not more than 3500 rpm is fine,thermosthat and water pump are new,is this normal for a fresh rebuid???
1) Engine rebuild with 400km on it (~250miles)
2) Turbo'ed engine
3) On throttle out of boost and below 3,500rpm you are seeing a climb of water temps from 92C (197F) to 103-105C (217-221F)
If my points are accurate, then no, it is not normal, for either a fresh engine or OEM one. Even the 92C is above the OEM thermostat's opening temperature (83C for OEM, 76C for Mazmart), so I'd say that your radiator is having trouble shedding the heat. I'm guessing that you added the intercooler in front of the radiator? Does the radiator have all the shielding around it to keep air from escaping around it? (usually foam in an OEM setup, could be another solution or substance).
#4
i am located in cyprus,the temperatures over the day are over 40 celsius...,engine has no more than 250 miles on it.did not have this issue before the rebuild.on throtle,below 3500 and out of boost is not climbing more than 92.and 89 in the night,witch i see it normal for the weather out here,with small amount of boost and pushing it a little hard untill 5000-5500 rpms,the temperature rises untill 103 celsius.thanks for the replies
Last edited by yellowrx8cy; 08-17-2012 at 03:25 PM.
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Even the 92C is above the OEM thermostat's opening temperature (83C for OEM, 76C for Mazmart), so I'd say that your radiator is having trouble shedding the heat. I'm guessing that you added the intercooler in front of the radiator? Does the radiator have all the shielding around it to keep air from escaping around it? (usually foam in an OEM setup, could be another solution or substance).
#6
92 we see it normal arround here as in the day the temp is like 42,43 celsius and a 70 percent humidity.the radiator is new and the foams are in place,the intercooler is in the same place where it was before the rebuild when i did not have issues
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Hmm. Not sure where to point you as to what changed then.
I'd say that if you can't get the temps down to the thermostat temp normally, then you need further cooling upgrades. Getting on the gas and making the temps spike like that tells me that it just can't handle the amount of heat being generated.
OEM radiator? Any other cooling modifications?
I'd say that if you can't get the temps down to the thermostat temp normally, then you need further cooling upgrades. Getting on the gas and making the temps spike like that tells me that it just can't handle the amount of heat being generated.
OEM radiator? Any other cooling modifications?
#8
oem radiator bhr waterpump,atkins rotary thermostat,i was told that after 1500 km this will dissapear,this is untill all seals stay in place,i fas told not tu push it over 3500 rpm untill i pass 2500 km,but ****,i cannot)))))
#9
and if it helps,the engine is a four port and was rebuilded with rotors,roror bearings,crankshaft and sationary gars from a six port.all new seals and springs from attkins,thermal pellet upgraded from atkins.
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I will have to defer to other experts here.
With the information you are giving me, it doesn't sound like there is any specific reason that your engine would be overheating. Especially not something from the rebuild.
Only other things I could think of is if you have something wrong with the coolant passages through the engine. Or oil passages, since the oil does help cool the engine as well.
With the information you are giving me, it doesn't sound like there is any specific reason that your engine would be overheating. Especially not something from the rebuild.
Only other things I could think of is if you have something wrong with the coolant passages through the engine. Or oil passages, since the oil does help cool the engine as well.
#11
in the nigth dow when the outside temperature drops below 30 degrees,the engine temperature drops also,untill 89,90.i am pointing at the rebuild because before the rebuild i did not have such problems....or maybe the brand new thermostat is not working properly....other experts told me that it will cool down after several km,that themeratures are high inside the engine due to the friction,and that the problem will stop after a while....what do you think about that?i have my fans programmed to start on low speed at 90 and high speed at 95 so basically when i push the gas more they are working all times
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From my own experience doing an engine replacement, you touch quite a few things in the process of pulling and replacing the engine, so it's hard to say that something IS the engine assuming that it's the only thing that changed. Because something could have been put back differently than it was before it was removed.
I would also view the claim of "waiting for friction to clear" as suspicious. Friction on the seals I could get, but the added heat there is tiny compared to the combustion heat. If there is friction in the coolant passages, I'd wonder why, and if they smooth out then either material is getting removed or getting deposited, and neither option is very pleasant to think about inside a newly rebuild engine.
If there is "Excess" friction anywhere but the seals themselves I'd be very very concerned, and thinking my oil wasn't doing a good enough job. And again, the seals friction heat is completely blown away by the heat of the combustion, so I don't buy that.
I would also view the claim of "waiting for friction to clear" as suspicious. Friction on the seals I could get, but the added heat there is tiny compared to the combustion heat. If there is friction in the coolant passages, I'd wonder why, and if they smooth out then either material is getting removed or getting deposited, and neither option is very pleasant to think about inside a newly rebuild engine.
If there is "Excess" friction anywhere but the seals themselves I'd be very very concerned, and thinking my oil wasn't doing a good enough job. And again, the seals friction heat is completely blown away by the heat of the combustion, so I don't buy that.
#14
also durring the last tuning session before two years or so the tuner mistaked the timing advance and the engine overheated until he figured out the problem.after he fixed it it was ok.is it possible due to rotors and crankshaft replacement from a 6 port timing advance to be affected??
#16
the intercooler is not in the way of the radiator at all,is in the place that greddy decided to put itso i think that is good,as i will mention again that before the rebuild i did not have this problem and no parts changed places after.intercooler or radiator were not removed,the undertray hole is completly empty.
#17
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the intercooler is not in the way of the radiator at all,is in the place that greddy decided to put itso i think that is good,as i will mention again that before the rebuild i did not have this problem and no parts changed places after.intercooler or radiator were not removed,the undertray hole is completly empty.
Were you monitoring it (in similar conditions) before the rebuild as close as you are now ?
#20
After few hours of check up with an electronic laser thermometer i noticed that on the small hose witch connects the water tank with the thermostat housing i have noticed that i did not have more than 58 celsius while the rest of the hoses had over 94.removed the hose and...surprize!!!!it had a white deposit inside!cleaned it and bingo!!!temp thoes not pass 90 celsius!thanks to everybody for replies!
#22
no agenda
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I'm subscribing
I'm interest in the cooling issues as I've been have some myself ...
But I'll be honest I'm not sure this thread is real or not ...
Sorry OP I'm not going to beat around the bush and its not meant as a flame however there are very few RX8's that run 14psi.
And you're posts lack any sort of meaningful knowledge or content about your setup.
Does Ray even make a water pump? Maybe you mean BHR Radiator?
I thought Mazmart had the thermostat and water pump market?
Did I miss where this was a top mount, low mount, rear mount, dismount, horse mount setup?
Show us a pic of the intercooler setup.
Who tuned it for you?
Maybe one of the radiator fans is burnt out ... this very issue happened to myself and bumblebeerx8 this year. They are 2004 and 2005 models.
Last thing: 14psi!!!! GET That thing on a dyno and record it!!!!! Would be sweet to see.
I'm interest in the cooling issues as I've been have some myself ...
But I'll be honest I'm not sure this thread is real or not ...
Sorry OP I'm not going to beat around the bush and its not meant as a flame however there are very few RX8's that run 14psi.
And you're posts lack any sort of meaningful knowledge or content about your setup.
Does Ray even make a water pump? Maybe you mean BHR Radiator?
I thought Mazmart had the thermostat and water pump market?
Did I miss where this was a top mount, low mount, rear mount, dismount, horse mount setup?
Show us a pic of the intercooler setup.
Who tuned it for you?
Maybe one of the radiator fans is burnt out ... this very issue happened to myself and bumblebeerx8 this year. They are 2004 and 2005 models.
Last thing: 14psi!!!! GET That thing on a dyno and record it!!!!! Would be sweet to see.
#23
The car was tuned by EASYTUNING greece and btw they are a looot of cars doing 1 bar,make a little searchcant make a dyno now as i am breaking in the engine.check out my last boost
Piston Rotor's Photos | Facebook
The intercooler is a front mount greddy as i use a greddy kit but a garret turbo,and is behind the black smiley face of the bumper,sorry about the pump mistake,the pump is a re-medy,today i found that a small hose was bloked,i have fixed the problem and the temperature dropped,but still under load with the ac on,i have 97 celsius,if i turn the ac off drops to 93.my tuner told me that could be a AFR issue as after the rebuild i have noticed that the mixture is lean like 12.3,and he told me to go easy on it untill it fill finish the break in period,and after we will fix the problem.
Piston Rotor's Photos | Facebook
The intercooler is a front mount greddy as i use a greddy kit but a garret turbo,and is behind the black smiley face of the bumper,sorry about the pump mistake,the pump is a re-medy,today i found that a small hose was bloked,i have fixed the problem and the temperature dropped,but still under load with the ac on,i have 97 celsius,if i turn the ac off drops to 93.my tuner told me that could be a AFR issue as after the rebuild i have noticed that the mixture is lean like 12.3,and he told me to go easy on it untill it fill finish the break in period,and after we will fix the problem.
#24
BECAUSE RACECAR
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At the track here in Arizona with triple digit temps I've pushed the car hard enough for it to sit in the low 240 degree range for water temp and mid 250's for oil temp for stretches of time up to 15 minutes. Nothing bad has ever happened. I've still got the original motor and I'm just about to roll over 100k. Ever since I got the car at 74k miles it's been tracked pretty hard almost twice a month. I'm running 15% Pink Zerex Antifreeze, 85% distilled water with a bottle of Water Wetter and 15w-40 Shell Rotella Diesel oil.
Also, sitting in traffic with the A/C on my car will easily get up to 220 water temp if I'm not moving. It's not that outrageous assuming he has an intercooler blocking a good amount of airflow to the radiator.
Another interesting note though, after I cut holes in the hood and put louvers in, even sitting in traffic with the A/C on in 110 degree weather the water temp never goes over 190 now that all that heat has somewhere to go. Also, cruising water temp on the highway is down 15 degrees and water temp on track is down 10 degrees. You can see heat just pouring out of the vents all the time, they proved to be far more effective than I thought they would.
Also, sitting in traffic with the A/C on my car will easily get up to 220 water temp if I'm not moving. It's not that outrageous assuming he has an intercooler blocking a good amount of airflow to the radiator.
Another interesting note though, after I cut holes in the hood and put louvers in, even sitting in traffic with the A/C on in 110 degree weather the water temp never goes over 190 now that all that heat has somewhere to go. Also, cruising water temp on the highway is down 15 degrees and water temp on track is down 10 degrees. You can see heat just pouring out of the vents all the time, they proved to be far more effective than I thought they would.
#25
hmm thanks arca x,seems that i am not the only one arround here with that high temps.to be honest i think that the most that i hit was 103 celsius with the ac on.my tuner tells me that once he will modify the program the most heat will dissapear,cuz car goes little lean under load so for that i have more heat than usual...as the heat problems i have them only under load maybe he has a point...as before the rebuild my temperatures were not so high...
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