Oil Metering Pump gone...need help
mac,
check the dates.
beers
[/QUOTE]
check the dates.
beers
I would like to know exactly what the code was that made the dealership condem the (MOP) metering oil pump. The do not go bad very often. However I just replaced an engine on an insurance job because there was a crack in the block where the engine mount bracket attaches to the rotor housing .I was able to keep the old engine which has a good (MOP) I would be willing to sell it at a very low price if in fact you need the Metering Oil Pump leave me an email address and maybe I can help you out if not with the (MOP) then maybe with some advise on your RX8
Good Luck Mazda Mac
quote=JohnsSilverRx8;3157006]Hey there,
So I have a manual 04 and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. It started when I tried driving the car when it was cold out, the car stalled because I didn't let it warm up and the light never went out. I didn't think anything of it other than why won't it go out. I brought it to the dealership. I'm not sure if they are or are not always on the up and up. They said the light is because the oil metering pump is gone and that it will cost me $1,500 ! to replace it.
1) Does this sound likely to be the problem ?
2) Wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty Mazda put out ? Dealership says it's not internal to the engine so it's not covered
3) They say the part itself is 1,300 ! This is hard to believe...
Any help, thoughts, ideas ?? Thanks so much for the help. Simply don't have 1,500 to spend on this right now.
Good Luck Mazda Mac
quote=JohnsSilverRx8;3157006]Hey there,
So I have a manual 04 and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. It started when I tried driving the car when it was cold out, the car stalled because I didn't let it warm up and the light never went out. I didn't think anything of it other than why won't it go out. I brought it to the dealership. I'm not sure if they are or are not always on the up and up. They said the light is because the oil metering pump is gone and that it will cost me $1,500 ! to replace it.
1) Does this sound likely to be the problem ?
2) Wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty Mazda put out ? Dealership says it's not internal to the engine so it's not covered
3) They say the part itself is 1,300 ! This is hard to believe...
Any help, thoughts, ideas ?? Thanks so much for the help. Simply don't have 1,500 to spend on this right now.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/mop-adjustments-120276/
since the thread got bumped this is just FYI for future searches ...
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Dec 14, 2010 at 06:25 AM.
I've done it on the car a couple of times...and once that it didn't work that way doesn't matter what I did. That time I took it off and did it on the bench and it has worked since then...not sure what that was about.
I wish we could get the specs Mikuni uses to set the damn things...or what Mazda expects the ECU to see in a normal pump
I wish we could get the specs Mikuni uses to set the damn things...or what Mazda expects the ECU to see in a normal pump
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Just bumping an old thread to double confirm an issue of a friend...
My friend's car has some really weird issue, i suspect it might be the OMP... If the OMP fails, that means that his OMP adapter (from rotary aviations) will also stop working yes?
My friend's car has some really weird issue, i suspect it might be the OMP... If the OMP fails, that means that his OMP adapter (from rotary aviations) will also stop working yes?
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Hey im bringing up this old thread again as i am having some omp issues myself. car is an 05 manual with 120000 kms bone sock other than k&n typhoon intake. it has been stuck in limp mode pulled a p2070 celcode and since have not been able to rea a code but light is still on and in limp mode after running for around 10 seconds. does anyone have a pic of the proper setting for the omp? i have tweaked it a few times with no luck and i want to try to set it before i dish out 1000+ $ for new pump. if anyone can help me out ill be in your debt as i miss driving my baby so much! thanks lads
I have recently been playing with the pump a bit...I had it and the wiring harness in the engine bay where I could adjust it without re/re'ing it
Here's what worked for me to reset it...
Remove the switch
Manually turn the shaft on the switch activator until it is fully clockwise
re-install the switch so that it is in the clockwise end of the adjustment range as well...then turn the switch counter clockwise until you feel it take up slack in the switch mechanism...and then a very little bit more..like 2 degrees.
Tighten the switch screws and reinstall the pump. Reset the ECU and see if you are out of limp mode.
I tried this a couple of times and was able to replicate the result on my car...so good luck with yours
Here's what worked for me to reset it...
Remove the switch
Manually turn the shaft on the switch activator until it is fully clockwise
re-install the switch so that it is in the clockwise end of the adjustment range as well...then turn the switch counter clockwise until you feel it take up slack in the switch mechanism...and then a very little bit more..like 2 degrees.
Tighten the switch screws and reinstall the pump. Reset the ECU and see if you are out of limp mode.
I tried this a couple of times and was able to replicate the result on my car...so good luck with yours
The OMP is nothing but a stepping motor turning the **** or whatever in very small increment.
it's easy to test OMP to see if it works. most of the time when it fails it's really the seal inside call it quit, oil gets in and short everything.
if u have the tools, remove the pump urself and test the circuit for shorts, if it's not, then follow dannbore instruction see if it comes back to life. if it still not, well, find a used one at local junk yard.
it's easy to test OMP to see if it works. most of the time when it fails it's really the seal inside call it quit, oil gets in and short everything.
if u have the tools, remove the pump urself and test the circuit for shorts, if it's not, then follow dannbore instruction see if it comes back to life. if it still not, well, find a used one at local junk yard.
check out my FS thread. I have a low mileage OMP if you need one.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...f-sale-244647/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...f-sale-244647/
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thanks guys! i had it diagnosed at the dealer yesterday and they clarified my suspision of the omp beig out of whack. thy said all the wiring was fine zero shorts amd that the pump was 'broken' so ive got it home now and i will adjust it tonight hopefully if ican find the time and i will post my reults and maybe a few pics if ican get some decent ones. thanks so much for the quick replies fellas im very grateful.
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Thought I'd close the loop on this for my issue...
It's been a while and in fact I don't have my baby anymore (have a C300 Benz) and miss the ride and performance of the Rx8 constantly!
Anyway, the dealership, when pushed very hard took a deep look into the issue and determined that i was a lucky SOB and that the one thing that was broken was covered by the manufacturer. I honestly don't remember what part it was and don't know whether they were fishing for an easy target and let up when I pushed back on the cost. They replaced whatever it was and it ran fine with no lights thereafter.
Miss my Rx8, enjoy it while you have it. I'm hoping a good new style one is out soon (Rx-9 rumors are around...)
Cheers and thanks for everyones help, much appreciated!
I guess the point of my post is, persistance with the dealership sometimes pays off
Anyway, the dealership, when pushed very hard took a deep look into the issue and determined that i was a lucky SOB and that the one thing that was broken was covered by the manufacturer. I honestly don't remember what part it was and don't know whether they were fishing for an easy target and let up when I pushed back on the cost. They replaced whatever it was and it ran fine with no lights thereafter.
Miss my Rx8, enjoy it while you have it. I'm hoping a good new style one is out soon (Rx-9 rumors are around...)
Cheers and thanks for everyones help, much appreciated!
I guess the point of my post is, persistance with the dealership sometimes pays off
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Hey guys just wanted to say thanks again for the help you guys gave me. so i went home jacked the front of the car up, disconnected the negative battery cable. climbed under to the omp took the two screws off the stepper motor connection pulled it off and turned the dial clockwise until it reseated on the set screw. put the stepper connection back on a loosely did up both screws then turned the comnection until i felt it take the 'slack' in the dial, then turned it a further c*nt hair aroun 2 or 3 degrees and then tightened both screws up. got back up and reconnected battery terminal. then hopped in reset ecu (20 brake pumps until oil pressure guage goes up and back to zero) then fired her up and done! worked perfect first attempt! let the engine idle a little rough while i set clock and all that jazz. then with a smile from ear to ear took that sexy bi*ch onto the highway and smashed out a couple redlines drove it hard for a solid half hour then came home and checked everything was still tight and good! you guys saved me a very large chunk of drinkin money so for that i say thanks heaps!! im absolutely stoked to have it running again
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From: Europe
Since I installed a Sohn adapter on my car, there is a recurrent fault : under high loads, high engine speeds, the car gets a CEL and defaults to a very slow fail mode. DTC is P1686 : OMP circuit low flow side problem.
I suspect one of the following as the root cause for the DTC :
- slight modification of the position switch position with regards to the stepper motor assy following the installation of the Sohn adapter
- bad contact in the position switch connector because the wiring is (or was) a bit stretched due to the thickness of the Sohn adapter
- faulty switch
I'll try to slightly rotate the position switch clockwise as a first step in fixing this issue.
Fabrice
I suspect one of the following as the root cause for the DTC :
- slight modification of the position switch position with regards to the stepper motor assy following the installation of the Sohn adapter
- bad contact in the position switch connector because the wiring is (or was) a bit stretched due to the thickness of the Sohn adapter
- faulty switch
I'll try to slightly rotate the position switch clockwise as a first step in fixing this issue.
Fabrice
Last edited by Rasputin; Mar 12, 2015 at 12:16 PM.
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OMP leaking oil badly
Hi I've just got my 8 and it's done 74,000, being honest I purchased it as spares and repairs as it wouldn't start. Since then I have changed the spark plugs, new battery, leads etc cleaned the map sensor and throttle body, and started great but very low revs. Did more digging only to find the OMP has a terrible leak on it. Is there anyway of fixing the unit or is it a change for a new part. Also I am mechanically minded but not familiar with the engine is there any reason the revs are low and sometimes dies.
yes, but it depends on where the leak is.
There are three bolts that position the OMP on the engine a,d there is a custom shaped O-ring from Mazda that seals the OMP flange face to it.
Also, there are copper seals on both sides of each of the four oil discharge tube banjo bolts that seal them between the bolt and the OMP.
So you can replace all of them or just figure out where the actual leak is and address that one spot. I would recommend degreasing it first to make sure the leak is there and not residue from somewhere else.
Also, if you unbolt the OMP from the engine there is always a chance that the rotary position switch may need adjusting once you have it all back together.
There are three bolts that position the OMP on the engine a,d there is a custom shaped O-ring from Mazda that seals the OMP flange face to it.
Also, there are copper seals on both sides of each of the four oil discharge tube banjo bolts that seal them between the bolt and the OMP.
So you can replace all of them or just figure out where the actual leak is and address that one spot. I would recommend degreasing it first to make sure the leak is there and not residue from somewhere else.
Also, if you unbolt the OMP from the engine there is always a chance that the rotary position switch may need adjusting once you have it all back together.
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Thanks
Ok thanks for the quick reply, and clear and precise details. I can see the four oil bolts, and have degreased the part for clear visibility. It oil is coming from very bottom of the unit where it meets with the side of the engine I believe.Thanks for letting me know about the Mazda only O rings etc as was not aware of that. Will contact Mazda and get these rings ordered along with a new OMP. Once again many thanks