New engine time..
05-23-2013, 05:48 PM
#26
I just got a compression test today. The results were lower than the specs and the dealer and Mazda Canada says its good enough and won't do anything about it. I guess I have some writing to do. Does anyone else know what to do to get some action. Warranty ends 4th June and compression results were Rotor 1 6.3 6.3 6.5 Rotor 2 6.7 6.6 6.5 They were quick to say that Mazda has increased the warranty to 8 years and 160K but I said that is great on paper but what does it do for me. Any help would be appreciated.
05-23-2013, 08:02 PM
#28
Bullshit Detector
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Auburn, CA
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So.. I'm going to be out another 2000.00 for shipping and a reinstall of the engine.
Is this something that should (could) have been checked after the engine was built or does this happen after the engine is started and ran?
Is this something that should (could) have been checked after the engine was built or does this happen after the engine is started and ran?
05-23-2013, 09:31 PM
#33
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
That sucks. It probably can be fixed in the car if the problem is in the front and was just assembled wrong. I can't remember exactly what it was but shadycrew31 had a similar problem when he built his engine the first. but if you don't fix it quick it can be a serious issue.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-23-2013 at 09:38 PM.
05-24-2013, 09:52 AM
#37
The front pulley wobble is from the front stack slipping out of place during assembly.
Do not drive the car, do not start the engine.
The oil pan needs to come off as well as the front cover, the entire front stack needs to be taken apart and reassembled.
You can do it yourself its not very hard at all.
I've seen two professional builders do this, it's not common but it does happen.
Do not drive the car, do not start the engine.
The oil pan needs to come off as well as the front cover, the entire front stack needs to be taken apart and reassembled.
You can do it yourself its not very hard at all.
I've seen two professional builders do this, it's not common but it does happen.
Last edited by shadycrew31; 05-24-2013 at 09:54 AM.
05-24-2013, 11:28 AM
#41
ロータリー兵士
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lakeland, Florida
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the info guys. I honestly cant remember if it was wobbling when I got the car or out of the blue. I'll have mazda tech take a look at it. I'm not very mechanically inclined unfortunately for myself. So probably not a good idea to take a 54 mile drive to Tampa for him to fix it? Its been being driven like this for a while. Runs awesome. Other than that ugly wobble :-(
05-24-2013, 06:13 PM
#42
ロータリー兵士
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lakeland, Florida
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry op I'm really trying not to thread hijack
But I do have an update. On a cold start the pulley rotates perfect. After she's been ran for a while and she's good and hot it will wobble a bit. Any ideas? Sorry for my ignorance. Also one more thing it will straighten out when revved I'm confused
But I do have an update. On a cold start the pulley rotates perfect. After she's been ran for a while and she's good and hot it will wobble a bit. Any ideas? Sorry for my ignorance. Also one more thing it will straighten out when revved I'm confused
Last edited by DMaverickRX8; 05-24-2013 at 06:16 PM.
05-25-2013, 07:19 AM
#46
just for everyone that may read this thread--if you run with a bad stack ( which means the front bearings etc are slightly out of alignment--easy to do and while fairly rare it does happen) at some point SOON the front stack will start shedding metal. That means not only the oil pan has to come off, but the oil coolers need replacing, or at the VERY least ultrasonic cleaning. The entire rotating assembly could be affected also. Metal in the oil is not good.
05-25-2013, 10:45 AM
#47
The title of the tread is "New Engine Time" there is no thread jacking going on. And the last time I looked the specs are not different for different areas of NA.
05-25-2013, 10:55 AM
#48
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
It's thread jacking because the member that started the thread is still dealing with his issue, actively involved in responses, and another member jumped with his problem. In addition to being just as rude as someone interrupting in real life, replies can often become confusing if people start responding to the one that jumped in.
Once the OP has his problem solved, then other people with the same issue can jump in without causing problems.
Once the OP has his problem solved, then other people with the same issue can jump in without causing problems.
05-25-2013, 03:14 PM
#49
just for everyone that may read this thread--if you run with a bad stack ( which means the front bearings etc are slightly out of alignment--easy to do and while fairly rare it does happen) at some point SOON the front stack will start shedding metal. That means not only the oil pan has to come off, but the oil coolers need replacing, or at the VERY least ultrasonic cleaning. The entire rotating assembly could be affected also. Metal in the oil is not good.
Luckily if you notice it before you try pull starting etc the bearings and collar stay intact.
05-28-2013, 07:13 PM
#50
Bullshit Detector
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Auburn, CA
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nothing good happening yet. They are calling me back but we are hung up on MM saying my mechanic used a pry bar on the front pulley to get it off (thus , doing the damage).
My mechanic is the best wrench I have ever met and doing something like that is not in his wheelhouse.
My second biggest issue is the work that MM claimed to do before the sale is different than what they really do. And if they did what they say they do.. The block would have been assembled correctly and I would not have had this problem.
Before I bought the engine, I confirmed what I was buying. Chris said that they take apart the engine and change the apex seal spring pressure (lower for longer life). Then they blueprint the engine for longer life (plus the WP, oil lines and install kit).
It turns out they never crack the block. They buy a Mazda Reman and add the WP and according to Paul they pop the oil pan and do something with the metering lines.
The whole reason I bought from MM was that I was getting a semi blue printed engine that could have a longer life and not have to waste money pulling an engine.
My mechanic is the best wrench I have ever met and doing something like that is not in his wheelhouse.
My second biggest issue is the work that MM claimed to do before the sale is different than what they really do. And if they did what they say they do.. The block would have been assembled correctly and I would not have had this problem.
Before I bought the engine, I confirmed what I was buying. Chris said that they take apart the engine and change the apex seal spring pressure (lower for longer life). Then they blueprint the engine for longer life (plus the WP, oil lines and install kit).
It turns out they never crack the block. They buy a Mazda Reman and add the WP and according to Paul they pop the oil pan and do something with the metering lines.
The whole reason I bought from MM was that I was getting a semi blue printed engine that could have a longer life and not have to waste money pulling an engine.