The quickest way to tell is the idle. I noticed that right away. I did not even reset, and negative was not disconnected long enough to do much. I think what happens is the improved grounds take noise out of the system. Noise means sensors are more stable, more stable sensors make better readings and the computer does a better job running the car. I can share that a lof the issues I have seen with space systems are cured with better grounds. A lot of work is done to make sure power is clean, but if the ground is bouncing around, it is the same as if the power was dirty and bouncing around...

 

Is this the same grounding kit used in this thread? If so I'll buy. I like the red. Haha.
8mm Ground Wire Kit Earth Grounding System Red Fit Mazda | eBay

 

That is the same one. Just re-crimp all the connectors. Hammer, Vise, Visegrip...

I really think the washers will do the trick though. You can be a test case. You really need the washers anyway to make a good connection.

I did make one change recently on how I installed the kit. I have all the wires come together at the bolt below the air box, where the ground from the battery cable runs. Makes the engine look a lot cleaner.

 

Some nice grounding advice thanks guys,
But wares the grounding point for the starting motor?
regards
josh

 

Wouldn't it have been cheaper to just fix the bad factory grounds you must have

 

So I recently put a grounding kit on my 8 the same way that MazdaManiac showed on page 3 of this thread. Once I got the kit on I went to start my car and it would not start. I checked the battery with a DMM and it showed 1.23 V. So I figured that the grounding kit had to be hooked up wrong so I took it off. As soon as I get everything back to factory I noticed that my interior lights where on so I put the DMM back on the battery and it was back to 12.6 Volts. This was without charging it or anything. I am a mechanical engineer and do not clam to know everything about electrical, it was actually one of my least favorite subjects in school, but I do have a decent understanding of it. The fact that it for the lack of a better word “recharged” its self after taking the grounding kit off has me puzzled. So I started over and checked for a larger than normal parasitic drain in between each connection point of the grounding kit before I connected it, then also testing the battery and after each connection. Everything was good until I got everything hooked up. I tested it before I tried starting the car and the battery tested at 12.6V. so I tried to start my car and nothing. Go back and test the battery and it was back to 1.23 volts. I took each ground wire off one at a time to see which one was the problem and the batter never went back to normal. Until I hooked it up as factory and then it was back to 12.6 volts. So now I am totally confused and that is why I am asking for any help or ideas from you guys!!!

Car is a 2004 that is totally stock and has 102,000 miles on it. FYI

 

Do you have a crappy connection at the battery?


If you hooked the ground to a +ve wire you would know it

 

no the connection was fine. How would a bad connection on the battery terminal cause the battery to go dead? I was measuring the voltage on the actual battery terminal not on the distro of the grounding kit.

 

Funny how supposed results = seat of the pants feelings, lol

 

So after going through this page I have more a less know where the points are. I did notice that on the driver side near the brake pump there's nothing connected that is the ground, in fact, i found that it was not connect but hanging on its own. I did connect it near the bar but not on the quarter panel that I've seen in other cars. My really question is there a definitive list of where we need to connect the ground kit wires. The pictures from the previous page have them in different area but there are some areas that must be connected. I guess i just need more detail on the points.