when the temps get to low 40's or so here in Ga I do have to block the oil cooler ducts. I have about a 12 mile drive to work in mixed type traffic and oil temps are too slow to warm up otherwise.
OD

 

It does not route all oil back to the engine, it always allows some oil to flow through the coolers. Or at least from what I remember when I researched this a year ago I believe Mazmart took one apart if I remember correctly. But if I am wrong please clarify, I would not want to spread misinformation.

The bottom line is that my oil gets to temp in no time with the single cooler setup versus when I had the stock setup.


I should do a video like Expo1 did to show it in real time.

 

Thanks for the ideas.
O.D. Maybe I'll do something like your solution.
What sort of temps can you hit in 12 miles with the coolers blocked?

Even if oil bypasses at the coolers the fins still would make a hell of a heat sink for the oil flowing past...
I guess it makes sense to have the oil flowing: You wouldn't want ~25% of your oil to be freezing cold and the rest at temp would you?
Or am I missing something?

9krpmrx8, can you plot your oil temp rise from start-up? What's ambient temp? How long to warm up?

 

Yeah, my oil gets sent back to the engine until it reaches 180F (actually about 173F by gauge) and then it enters the cooler. If I did live in a cold climate my cooler would be a problem.

 

Blocking the coolers from the front isn't enough. I did that last winter and still went 10 miles before hitting normal operating temp. OD also block from the rear. I'll take the chance of sounding crazy. The first idea is mine the second is a very highly regarded vendor:

1. for winter, route the oil out of the engine right back into the engine.
2. Insulate the oil pan.

I have not tried either, but that milky oil bothers me. I change the oil at 3k hopin it will help a bit.

 

Rotaries have been going that since Adam was a lad...don't worry about it.

 

^.....maybe he should just move South?

 

like ASH said, its been like that since ... whatever.

my FC has this "non-issue" too.

if u are so concern about it, Mazda has a kit that specificity get rid of this milky oil thing. but the kit cost 200+ bux. It includes all new gaskets for your intake manifold, tubes, and all the other goodies that u need to do the conversion. Takes about 2 hours of time. Free if you are still under B2B warranty.

I never did mine cuz its not an issue. or just make sure your oil stays hot (meaning at least 90+ Celsius) for 20-30 minutes. All the milky stuff would be gone. Its just water basically.

 

Wow! I'd love to see 90C+ oil temps... but in 9C ambient it's tough to get there.

 

It's 4*c here at the minute, we're having no trouble hitting 100+ on the oil

 

what helped me a lot with the milky oil stuff was installing a catch can and put a good vacuum line to it. You still have to get the oil temp up though.
OD

 

hmm, is it just me? I have no problem getting the temp to 80-90 Celsius. even when its like 20 degrees out.

Sure it takes a little longer, maybe another 10-15 minutes of driving. but hmm I can always get there.

Hell yesterday it was like 50 degrees at night, and I got the oil to 85 in about 20 minutes of driving.

 

What's your oil temp setup?
I'm running the standard RB adapter plate

 

I've silently been following this conversation ... and while we've basically hijacked the thread ...

Yesterday it was around 10c where I live ...

And I literally had to flog the ******* **** out of my car to get the oil temp over 85c

I think there is something to all this, its strange in the wide variations people are getting for oil temps. Yes operating conditions play a large part in things but still ....... <scratching head>

 

No was not saying you were wrong just that there was a bypass there and it must be doing something . I took my spare one apart and tried to work out how it operated ......without any luck .

 

Yes it is crazy.

20 minutes to get to 185F? It was in the low 50's this morning and it took less than five minutes to get to the low 190's.

 

with coolers blocked--front and rear--i see oil temps 180-190F. they follow the engine coolant warm up basically. Oil is qucker to warm than the coolant up to a point. I do have the e pellet mod.
OD

 

Here is the incredibly scientific test I just did :
Due for oil change so from a stone cold engine took it for a drive around the block - about 2-3 miles 6 mins driving .

Pulled drain plug and felt temp of oil - just beyond tolerable . Therefore 60C (140f+)plus . whith engine at 80C
Conclusion for my setup (single stock oil cooler) : warm up engine till it reaches normal operating temp . Then OK to give it sh*t !

 

That's one helluva procedure there Brett.

 

yep . We try keep it simple down this way .... If we can LOL

 

Im using a sandwich adapter too. not from RB tho.

dont think there is a difference.

again, unless its dead cold then it might take a little longer (like 10 minutes or so) to get the oil warm up.

 

I pushed it a little harder this morning... 9C ambient
As soon as I saw 75C water temp I kept the RPMs between 3K and 4K and hit 75C oil temp within 10 min of starting.
A bit of 4K + and I was over 80C
So the temp and warm-up are directly related to driving style.

Must work out an oil cooler air block for my short commutes...


Just to confirm, the e pellet blocks oil flow to the rotors during warm up... right? The intent being to let the combustion chambers heat up quicker for emissions or something... Am I on the right track?
So the mod does what? Opens the path all the time? So does the engine warm up slower? Does the oil warm up faster that way?
Does the oil pressure mod make a difference to the e pellet mod? (I needed to relate back to the original thread topic...)

 

Thread Revive!!

Ok so I'm considering this mod when I install my 7 quart oil pan. Has anyone seen any negatives so far. I'm concerned that my oil pressure will now be too high and I will be getting leaks everywhere. My car is an 04 with 86,000 miles on original engine. Let me know your thoughts. What difference do the washers make on changing the pressure bypass? Their purpose is not clear to me. Can someone post some pictures as well. Thanks

 

Just install it and don't be worried. In pennsylvania i doubt that you'll even need a bigger oil pan. Overcooling is an issue jsut as much as overheating

Anyway, this is a video of the stock oil pressure @ startup i know i have a weak starter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQEutn5t3k4

 

bse you noob ! get a new starter already !

Gdawg522, you won't get leaks everywhere for that, but if you do, that simply means your oil seal is on its last legs to begin with.

at ur mileage, I don't think it makes any sense to break the pan oil just to install the oil pan + pressure mod, wait till your engine goes boom or on the new rebuild and do it at the same time, thats just my opinion tho.