Paul answer your phone!

 

The fog lights are right in front of the oil cooler, so you can use those to help warm the oil a little bit faster.

10W40 oil?

I would go with 0W40, which some make like Mobil 1, or 0W30 oil. I think the wide range can help with the wear during startup, but be a thicker oil to offer more protection.

However, nobody really answered the question if the OMP will handle the thicker W40 oil properly.

Definitely would go synthetic and definitely consider ester based oil like Motul. I've switched to 0W30 Motul. They also say there is no problem mixing, dino or synthetic, but that is always a depend question.

That and Redline fuel system cleaner.

 

This is what I'd like to know too I know most people would premix but is the OMP sufficient? (likely not?) If not, at what level should the premix be?

 

It seems like the ideal oiling setup would be something like

• OMP with Sohn adapter, premix oil
• premix
• heavier weight synth engine oil (5w30 minimum, w40 preferred?)

 

The Renesis omp and lines are no smaller than those in the RX-7's. Those cars use 20W50 all day long. The omp isn't going to have a hard time with it.

 

What does Doc I. say about the apex seals? Would ceramic have helped?

 

of course it would, Ceramic will give almost no wear to the housing. Isnt that a wonderful thing ?

but I think they cost like what 1600 bux a set ? correct me if Im wrong.

Hmm ... Im saving money ATM ... 60 K miles here I come !~

 

The metering pump has no problem with the thicker oil. Again, let's keep in mind that thicker oils than this are being recommended by Mazda in other countries.

Paul.

 

I like these recommendations. I would like to see Mazda adapt a separate oil-metering tank like the Sohn system on their future rotaries. Myself and others have been saying this for years. People (And especially modern women) don't need to be popping their hood every week or 2. A warning light, like on a fuel tank, showing you are at reserve level.

Paul.

 

Probably not sufficient for the optimum life of your motor. Using RG's theory, (Which I agree with) it seems that we need to direct more of the oil to the middle of the apex seal. I think I'll defer to others who have done some testing and experimentation with the pre-mix amounts to say the right quantity. I think I'd use just a little less than Expo was using, except maybe at the track.

Paul.

 

Most "modern women" would have your head for that statement

But yeah, a separate tank would be great.. Unfortunately it will likely never happen..

 

$1900, and you'll have to source them through Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development. They'll cost less if they're part of a motor from us. I won't be selling these separately in order to avoid a conflict of interest with Mazda. Without us working with the Doctor these seals wouldn't exist but without the funding of Mazda they wouldn't be available.

Not only do they create negligable wear, they also will last indefinitely under the right conditions. Cost is the greatest downside, but you have to pay to play. They help make the most NA hp and longest engine life. They are more significant than port work in their effect on an engine in my opinion.

Paul.

 

Paul, how much for an engine with these seals, that is built for a daily driven motor w/ a F/I setup running 8-12lbs of boost?$?

 

I know Ianetti apex seals are expensive (the best products always are!), but look at it this way. Assuming you plan to always keep your car and enjoy the thought of seeing it go several hundred thousand miles like I do, what is cheaper in the end. Is it paying nearly $2000 for a set of apex seals that allows your engine to make more power (which is more fun) and allowing it to last for over 200K miles, or is it cheaper to rebuild your engine twice in this amount of time with conventional seals and potentially lower performance?

If you plan on having your car for a long time, the Ceramics are the cheaper option. If you intend to own it for a few years and get rid of it, they aren't.

 

Would the ceramics also allow the car to rev higher(say 10000 rpms) without fear of damaging anything? The twin-screw blower continues to build power the higher the rpms. I'm not saying I would constantly do that(I rarely go above 8k), but it would be nice to have.

 

I totally agree. Most women just aren't as diligent, and won't be premixing, either.

I love working on my car and all the extra attention it requires, but if Mazda ever wants to appeal to the average driver with the 8, they still have work to do and this thread is proving it. Maybe the '09 really does address the OMP issues but how long will it take one of us to put 100k miles on the new Renesis and compare?

 

I did 900 miles in one day last weekend..

 

I just meant, the proof of whether the improvements helped will still be a few years down the road...

I put about 2k per month on mine, and am out of warranty so I try to follow all the suggestions on here for longevity. When I rolled over 60k I switched to Royal Purple and started premixing. I have a reman, which makes me nervous, too but so far has been reliable.

 

Do I ever.. I believe there was some install meet in MA that you will be attending.. I'm thinking of coming to that too. I also need get my *** in gear for my own little killer nitrous setup

 

I think its the intake thats limiting power, these engines can go over 10K rpm w/o any problems.

but you have to remember other parts of the car might not be able to handle such high RPM for too long, especially the FW parts, you dont want it to fly out and kill you in the middle of the road.

 

When and where will you guys meet up in April ?

 

I still have to PM you with a bunch of my ideas. I want to go direct port, progressive controller.. I believe that with a progressive controller you can go to something like 100 shot without tuning.

What's with this obsession with higher RPMs? Bumping your redline from 9k to 10k increases RPMs by 11%, but due to decrease in torque, power will go up maybe 8-9%... At the same time, you're increasing mechanical load on the engine by 23%!! Get a turbo..

Look in the NE forum for a "MA springs install" thread

 

The power drops like crazy after 9.2K rpm. Its not getting enough air. No point to rev anymore.

Yes, Super/Turbo Charge are the only way to go.



Will do sir !

 

Most nitrous material will talk about a safe shot being 50ish and "maybe 75 or so with a progressive controller". The thing is that these texts only really consider piston engines where you start spraying at 4k and you've redlined by 6k (hence only 50% more spray). On the renesis if you can safely spray 50 at 4k you could ramp it up quite a bit. The amount of spray you can use without tuning all comes down to the speed of the flame front, which is proportional to the amount of fuel / nitrous per combustion event. This is what I was trying to convey in the "rules" thread but my argument at that point was kind of half baked.

 

There was a post talking about it a while ago.

and on the Dyno graph, the power drops after about 8500 rpm, then at 9.2K its going down like nutz.