Gas/Oil Premix Thread
#126
now you bastards have made me want/need to go out and buy some 2cycle synthetic to premix with.
One question -- since its obviously oil i thought oil never mixed with anything? i guess the gasoline breaks it down so it properly dilutes throughout the entire tank?
One question -- since its obviously oil i thought oil never mixed with anything? i guess the gasoline breaks it down so it properly dilutes throughout the entire tank?
#127
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Originally Posted by Unhooked
from what I understand premixing only adds to the oil already injected in the rotary housing. So I don't see how it can hurt since oil doesn't create carbon build up. This also leads me to believe that owners who have had the recall done, comment on the engine performing better accompanied by an increase in gas mileage, which is the exact same thing that I am noticing with premixing.
#128
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Originally Posted by Unhooked
How abt Semi Syn....since I saw one by lucas
a more technical person with have to answer that one... i just know that the syn burns cleaner... you will see a big diff in the smoot factor...
more so if you are using syn motor oil in the car... my smoot takes about 1000 miles to build up enought to even clean... and it comes of very easy...
beers
#129
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Originally Posted by toxin440
now you bastards have made me want/need to go out and buy some 2cycle synthetic to premix with.
One question -- since its obviously oil i thought oil never mixed with anything? i guess the gasoline breaks it down so it properly dilutes throughout the entire tank?
One question -- since its obviously oil i thought oil never mixed with anything? i guess the gasoline breaks it down so it properly dilutes throughout the entire tank?
the best way to do it would be to put the oil in a gas can add a gallon of gas and shake it up. then put it in the car and fill it up...
but i just put it in before the fill up and let the filling mix it up... have had no problems...
the method i use is... i went out and bought 120 5oz dixie cups. it cost about 2bucks... i keep them in the trunk..
i put the oil.. into the cup and dump it into the tank. then fill. i am down to about 3oz now...
also note... i am premixing to fix / cover up a problem...
beers
#130
Out of NYC
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a decent quart of premix cost no more than 5 bucks. and you just need about 4-6oz of it for every fill-up, thats with a functional OMP/MOP of course.
a Quart should be able to last you 8 times (say if you put 4 oz each time)
So its not so bad I guess. plus the protection it gives ya.
Alot of rotary owners , I mean people with experience like most 7 owners, just removed the omp/mop all together and use premix only, with a lower ratio of course, say about 1:100
a Quart should be able to last you 8 times (say if you put 4 oz each time)
So its not so bad I guess. plus the protection it gives ya.
Alot of rotary owners , I mean people with experience like most 7 owners, just removed the omp/mop all together and use premix only, with a lower ratio of course, say about 1:100
#131
I thought castor was a good thing? I know in RC 2 stroke engines, the castor leaves a waxy like varnish coating that reduces friction and addes a protective barrier if there was a potential for oil starvation.
#136
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Originally Posted by danielk015
do you guys guesstimate 5oz or divide the premix in a little container and carry it around with you?
#138
Originally Posted by nycgps
a decent quart of premix cost no more than 5 bucks. and you just need about 4-6oz of it for every fill-up, thats with a functional OMP/MOP of course.
a Quart should be able to last you 8 times (say if you put 4 oz each time)
So its not so bad I guess. plus the protection it gives ya.
Alot of rotary owners , I mean people with experience like most 7 owners, just removed the omp/mop all together and use premix only, with a lower ratio of course, say about 1:100
a Quart should be able to last you 8 times (say if you put 4 oz each time)
So its not so bad I guess. plus the protection it gives ya.
Alot of rotary owners , I mean people with experience like most 7 owners, just removed the omp/mop all together and use premix only, with a lower ratio of course, say about 1:100
Ive followed so far but one thing I do not understand is the "functioning OMP/MOP"
I havnet modified my engine in any way so far (especially the oil system) so would dumping 4oz of premix into the gas tank work for me? or is there something else I'm missing?
#139
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Originally Posted by swoope
yes,
the best way to do it would be to put the oil in a gas can add a gallon of gas and shake it up. then put it in the car and fill it up...
but i just put it in before the fill up and let the filling mix it up... have had no problems...
the method i use is... i went out and bought 120 5oz dixie cups. it cost about 2bucks... i keep them in the trunk..
i put the oil.. into the cup and dump it into the tank. then fill. i am down to about 3oz now...
also note... i am premixing to fix / cover up a problem...
beers
the best way to do it would be to put the oil in a gas can add a gallon of gas and shake it up. then put it in the car and fill it up...
but i just put it in before the fill up and let the filling mix it up... have had no problems...
the method i use is... i went out and bought 120 5oz dixie cups. it cost about 2bucks... i keep them in the trunk..
i put the oil.. into the cup and dump it into the tank. then fill. i am down to about 3oz now...
also note... i am premixing to fix / cover up a problem...
beers
#141
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Originally Posted by toxin440
Ive followed so far but one thing I do not understand is the "functioning OMP/MOP"
I havnet modified my engine in any way so far (especially the oil system) so would dumping 4oz of premix into the gas tank work for me? or is there something else I'm missing?
I havnet modified my engine in any way so far (especially the oil system) so would dumping 4oz of premix into the gas tank work for me? or is there something else I'm missing?
#142
Here's yet another data point.
I use Echo Chainsaw oil (two stroke) available at your local Home Depot. It meets JASO standards which are considerably higher than TSW3 (meaning that it creates less smoke or ash deposits than TSW3 2 stroke oils). I've tried Marvel Mystery oil in the past as well and personally I didn't like the Marvel Mystery oil since it left tons of soot deposits on my rear bumper.
The biggest difference I noticed was smoother starting and better engine vaccuum on my engine boost gage. For street driving I use 4 oz per tank (8 oz if heading for the track). The Echo product is totally smokeless and leaves no soot whatsoever on my rear bumper.
I have heard in the past that premixing will shorten the life of your catalytic converter which may be something for 8 owners to consider. Granted OBDII cars have a 5 year exemption (at least here in AZ) from their first emissions test, but 5 years of premixing "may" take a toll on your cat. Just something to think about. In my case, I feel that the benefits far outweigh the risks.
I use Echo Chainsaw oil (two stroke) available at your local Home Depot. It meets JASO standards which are considerably higher than TSW3 (meaning that it creates less smoke or ash deposits than TSW3 2 stroke oils). I've tried Marvel Mystery oil in the past as well and personally I didn't like the Marvel Mystery oil since it left tons of soot deposits on my rear bumper.
The biggest difference I noticed was smoother starting and better engine vaccuum on my engine boost gage. For street driving I use 4 oz per tank (8 oz if heading for the track). The Echo product is totally smokeless and leaves no soot whatsoever on my rear bumper.
I have heard in the past that premixing will shorten the life of your catalytic converter which may be something for 8 owners to consider. Granted OBDII cars have a 5 year exemption (at least here in AZ) from their first emissions test, but 5 years of premixing "may" take a toll on your cat. Just something to think about. In my case, I feel that the benefits far outweigh the risks.
#144
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I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my RX-7. Its also handy because there are marks down the sides that show the oz's in 4-oz intervals. OMP disabled, so I mix 1oz per gallon of gasoline.
#145
Originally Posted by wisconsinben
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=premix
I've been using Yamalube 2-R for a couple months now. Haven't had the recall performed yet, so this seems like good protection until then.
I've been using Yamalube 2-R for a couple months now. Haven't had the recall performed yet, so this seems like good protection until then.
It 's best to use Yamalube S
S is made for injectors, it's much thinner.
This will not clog the orifaces that drop oil on the Apex seals.
#146
Originally Posted by Unhooked
from what I understand premixing only adds to the oil already injected in the rotary housing. So I don't see how it can hurt since oil doesn't create carbon build up. This also leads me to believe that owners who have had the recall done, comment on the engine performing better accompanied by an increase in gas mileage, which is the exact same thing that I am noticing with premixing.
Incorrect oil does cause carbon build up. We think that's why Mazda doesn't like Mobile 1. But we are not sure. Mazda does not recomend Synthetic oil that they haven't tested for this reason.
Not only can the oil build up on the plugs, but also along the APEX seal.
This is why one needs to be careful when chooing a pre-mix.
And becareful on the amount mixed.
#147
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Originally Posted by Razz1
Incorrect oil does cause carbon build up. We think that's why Mazda doesn't like Mobile 1. But we are not sure. Mazda does not recomend Synthetic oil that they haven't tested for this reason.
Not only can the oil build up on the plugs, but also along the APEX seal.
This is why one needs to be careful when chooing a pre-mix.
And becareful on the amount mixed.
Not only can the oil build up on the plugs, but also along the APEX seal.
This is why one needs to be careful when chooing a pre-mix.
And becareful on the amount mixed.
#148
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Originally Posted by Razz1
that's the wrong stuff.
It 's best to use Yamalube S
S is made for injectors, it's much thinner.
This will not clog the orifaces that drop oil on the Apex seals.
It 's best to use Yamalube S
S is made for injectors, it's much thinner.
This will not clog the orifaces that drop oil on the Apex seals.
it comes in right from the intake port.
beers
#149
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
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Originally Posted by Razz1
Incorrect oil does cause carbon build up. We think that's why Mazda doesn't like Mobile 1. But we are not sure. Mazda does not recomend Synthetic oil that they haven't tested for this reason.
Not only can the oil build up on the plugs, but also along the APEX seal.
This is why one needs to be careful when chooing a pre-mix.
And becareful on the amount mixed.
Not only can the oil build up on the plugs, but also along the APEX seal.
This is why one needs to be careful when chooing a pre-mix.
And becareful on the amount mixed.
are you talking about premix or motor oil here??
beers
#150
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Originally Posted by Razz1
that's the wrong stuff.
It 's best to use Yamalube S
S is made for injectors, it's much thinner.
This will not clog the orifaces that drop oil on the Apex seals.
It 's best to use Yamalube S
S is made for injectors, it's much thinner.
This will not clog the orifaces that drop oil on the Apex seals.
No the 2-R is the correct stuff because the S is dirty crap oil