ok, which thread would that be lol, im not really knowledgeable on this stuff -.- but i don't want to have my car running out of oil on me because of neglect or lack of knowledge with this stuffs haha, I'm just concerned because i always see in youtube that you have to check your oil level every time you go to the gas station and I'm just blanked out "why?", also checking your oil whether its full or halfway full or low, does the oil have to be always full? and i have been trying to redline once a day only and it didn't affect my gas. I'm kinda broke as of the moment since i have more problems to deal with but thats besides the point. i love my rx8 and i wanna take care of it js as its named "high maintenance" . thank you xexok for answering my question.

@rx8soldier sorry my name is lazy boy. I'm not lazy its js the car name i chose. like green lantern get it? or batman get it? I'm a full time employee as a vocational nurse and Im going to school for registered nurse. i barely have enough time for friends. I'm also 20 years old. thank you very much.

 

Your car comes with an owners manual.
This forum comes with a search function.
That's all you really need to know. If you're too busy to research and study things about the car that you bought... pay us and we'll gladly do the research for you.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/rx8-faq-new-owners-116484/

Both of those should answer any questions you may have. If they do not then use google to search this site.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Awww.rx8club.com+why+add+oil

 

I bought the car at 26K. The car ran great until it was flooded at 90K. I can't be positive about the plugs, but since the tires were in such terrible shape (at least 3 plugs) I doubt this person had done anything to the engine.

I was still getting 19+ MPG and it was running great. I put 68K on those plugs until I sold the car.

 

Hi. Can anyone have a suggestion as for the use of Jet Fuel (any type) for theEngine? I'm looking not for a staight forward response ("completely forbidden", "you'll break the engine"), but for a technical comment (like: change the ECU map, you will loose performance, etc.). Thanks.

 

There is a version of AV fuel that rotary powered planes use.

I wouldn't recommend it for a street car but it could be done with proper tuning.

Search on google.

 

dont--if you are looking for octane then this is the wrong way to go.
the av gas has a lower density than race gas or street gas and will require a substantial tune change to run correctly. Without it you will lean the engine out.
Octane for av gas is also gauged on a different scale than car gas. For example a 111 octane race gas would be a 160 in av gas scaling.
Its a poor choice imho.

 

He said "Jet Fuel" not AVGas.

Jet fuel is closer to diesel oil than gas. Years ago I accidentally got diesel in my RX7. The delivery truck put the diesel in the wrong tank at the station. It didn't run bad. When it was started cold it smoked like hell for about 5 minutes until it warmed up. There was a slight hesitation on acceleration.

One thing to remember is it wasn't pure diesel and I have no idea what the gas/diesel ratio was. Pure diesel might not spark ignite very well at all. Rotary compression is only about 1/2 of what it takes to burn diesel efficiently.

 

I dunno this convo should prolly move to the fitness thread...

 

Prolly gonna clog the fuel pump.

 

Jet fuel, like kerosene, burns too hot even if it fires. I got 3-5 gals. of kerosene in 20 gals. of gas once in a 300 c.i.d. F150, and the oil stayed black forever after that like a diesel. Also, the engine started having blowby.

So, just run 91 plus octane gas, and put 2t oil in at about 1/2 oz per gal.

 

Hi. Can anyone have a suggestion as for the use of Jet Fuel (any type) for theEngine? I'm looking not for a staight forward response ("completely forbidden", "you'll break the engine"), but for a technical comment (like: change the ECU map, you will loose performance, etc.). Thanks.

Hard to control my response to this idea.

Jet fuel/kerosene is poison to gasoline - some of the components test out in the minus 60 range on an octane test machine.

You can do the math from there.....

 

Completely changing the subject...sort of....but it is to do with pre-mix in a banger...

My MX-5 has ONLY done 1800 KMS that is about 1100 miles, I have been putting in my Rotary Pre-mix of Amsoil Saber Pro @ half the rate I put in my 8..

So 2 mils per 1 litre of gas.....I know you are not supposed to use additives in any new Mazda banger, BUT, so far I am amazed at how CLEAN the exhaust outlet is, I can wipe my finger inside the exhaust outlet and there is next to zero soot/carbon on it..

So can someone tell me is this because engine is new or does the AS Pro help in complete and clean combustion...I also use premium (High Octane) gas.

Just an observation...what do you guys think??

 

I couldnt tell you for certain why you are getting the results, but my speculation is upper cylinder lubrication. Ive also premixed in my piston engines for a few years now with similar results. Ive also been told from the tribologist that suggested the product I currently use that it will enhance the combustion process. He has suggested and I practice less premix than I do in my 8 though I use more in my 8 than he suggests. The dose for the 8 coming from my reading here. My exhaust tips to tend to be a little cleaner on this premix as well.

 

I'm trying to figure out how to premix this little guy...

 

open up the battery cells and pour in some idemitsu!

 

one thing i would like to discuss concerning pre mix/deposits and forced induction.
I have heard and been a small part of a discussion about how combustion chamber deposits ( gas produced) combined with a high pre mix ratio ( for us--1 oz per gallon) can cause a more likelihood of detonation in a FI engine.
The discussion centers around premix actually settling in some of the very small nicks and crannies in the combustion chamber deposits, getting to hot and then acting as a source of possible detonation. In my feeble caffeine fired brain--i can see where this indeed could happen?
I am beginning to wonder if a lighter premix ratio would be better for FI? Plus a w/m system to help keep the deposits down?
Actually since pre mix has really never been conclusively shown to really help anything--I am beginning to wonder if we need to do it at all? I mean--have I missed something? Pre mix engines are not lasting any longer--some people that dont pre mix have gotten 100K out of their engines.
So should we re-examine this?
Yes the S2 design added real improvements in the omp--but does premix give the same type of benefits? I need more real findings for the long term engine.

 

Only poorly built engines don't last any longer with premix. As for the average joe premixing and blowing his engine... it's probably his fault of being an idiot and skipping on other important maintenance issues.

Premix helps. Just compare 2 engines with and without premix to see it. You could even put the apex seals on a flat surface to notice the wear difference.

In FI applications i'd say that tuning is paramount. Rich "safe" tunes can become time bombs. Most people fail to understand this.

 

understand and you mentioned exactly what i want to see. On my own engines--when I checked the apex seals I didnt see any middle apex seal wear. I used various amounts of pre mix in all my engines.
Maybe someone can post pics of their seals with the engines history?
Now I have seen the 13B seals pics on the RX7 club site etc --but no comparison between cars with premix versus cars without and their history's. besides the 13b is a different engine with a lot of not the same when compared to ours.

 

I would agree, I think many people who have tried premixing started to do so after their last engine blew and 9 times out of 10 that engine was replaced by what many consider an inferior mazda reman unit. I think on a high quality build or factory fresh engine it would make all the difference.

 

I've always used synthetic and big difference I believe in it too .

 

I've spent the last three weeks reading about premix and synthetic vs dino for 3 hours a night on this site. Most of the threads were old, so I have a couple questions that probably have been answered, but I don't want to keep reading the same MMO is crap MMO is god...

So:
1. What are people using for premix these days? Still any synthetic, non-castor 2-stroke? People still using Lucas UCL as well?

2. Has the ratio on premix gone up or down? Is it still in the 300:1 range?

3. What weight of RP synthetic are people using these days? Still 10-30?

 

I've dabbled with Lucas UCL & Lucas Semi-Syn 2 stroke (alone and with MMO mixed in for its 'cleaning properties') and now I'm using Idemitsu, for 2 reasons:
1. Its cheaper than Lucas UCL or any other quality synthetic/semi-syn 2 stroke mix. At least for those who live within driving distance of a supplier. Mazdatrix is a modest trip for me.
2. It was designed to lube the rotary.
I've stuck with the 1/2oz per gallon method on every mix I've tried.

I use valvoline 5w-40 and have no complaints yet. The oil does seem much dirtier when it comes time to change (which I do religiously), but I think that's because it is cleaning better than regular oil did before it.

 

1. I have been using Lucas UCL since the car had 6000 miles on it when I got it. It now has 29000 on it. It seems to be running just as strong as when I got it. I average 18-20 mpg. I use UCL because I have to keep my cat for smog reasons.

2. I use bewteen 4-6 ozs per fill-up.

3. I use 5w30 dino because I don't want them to have any excuse if I need warranty work. the local mazda dealer uses castrol 5w30 dino according to several receipts I have from them so I figure I am safe using 5w30 vice 5w20.

I plan on upgrading the coils and replacing the plugs/wires this summer when I pass the 30,000 mile mark. I'll know a little more then how things are by looking at the plugs.

 

I have been using the lucas semi-syn 2 stroke and it works good, I would love to go with idemitsu for all the reasons you listed. I just wish it was available locally and without having to order it by the case.

I don't know what idemitsu currently costs but the lucas semi-syn is about $10 a quart at checkers, autozone does not sell it. It used to be 5.99 and spiked up quite a bit in price. I need to check target and walmart they may be cheaper.