^ Been premixing my premix in 8oz bottles with 7oz idemitsu and 1oz fp+ without problems for over a year now

 

Also out of the first 76 pages of this thread I haven't come across anything regarding winter storage. I will continue to read but what are your thoughts. Should we or should we not have any premix in our tanks if we are storing our cars during the winter? Even my keyboard feels smoother.

 

I'm not going to have any premix for the winter storage, because I'm not sure how it affects that product that keeps the gas fresh. I'll be finally installing my sohn setup during that time also.

 

I'm not the best back yard mechanic in the world but it sure would be nice to see that sohn install. I believe my omp is using approx 500 ml per 1000 km. I'm still getting a feel for the car.

 

I'm looking at some of the different flash points of different amsoil 2t oils. ex. Amsoil Interceptor is 86 C/ 187 F and Amsoil Sabre Pro is 114 C/ 237 F. a: what is the temperature of the combustion chamber in the engine and b: what is the minimum needed flashpoint required in our 2t oils? Thanks.

 

^ it's a lot hotter than the flashpoint of any 2 stroke so it is a non issue.

 

My 05 had 150K on it and was still running great. I had never even heard of premix until I started reading here.

That being said I am putting premix in my 09.

 

Yeah there is not really any proof premix does anything to extend the life of a Renesis but it just makes me feel better to do so

 

It'll be done in my driveway so you can some over anytime to help when the time comes.
Amsoil Sabre Pro, then when the summer comes and the windows go down go for Pro-tek or Legend, they don't smell as bad.

 

Ok 130 pages read. Best I have is premix 5 to 7 oz Amsoil Saber Pro per tank and sohn on todo list for sure.

 

Here's a story for you. I stopped in Denton TX and fueled up my 80 RX7 at a truck stop. I noticed a slight hesitation when I accelerated from a standing start, but other than that the car was running fine.

The next morning when I started the car it was running rough and smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. So much that I couldn't see to back out of the carport. I was still under warranty so I headed straight to the dealer 4 miles away. By the time I got there the car was running fine and the smoke had gone away.

The dealer told me that I had diesel in the tank. I called the truck stop and I was told that a truck had made a delivery of diesel into the gasoline storage tank.
They paid for draining of my fuel tank. It didn't seem to hurt anything.

 

Good thing there are calm people like you in this world...I would have gone into "crazy bitch" mode :/

 

Does anyone have any experience with BG Products? If you bring your car to a BG Service center they add an oil treatment at no charge. If you start using their products before 36,000 miles they will pay for up to $4000 for any internal part failure on your engine, FOR LIFE! I am very surprised to find that my local Mazda dealer is a BG center.

They also make 2 stroke oil. The oil treatment is listed on this link as well.

http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html

I plan to ask the dealer their thoughts on using BG 2 stroke as a premix. I figure if I get their blessing I won't get into trouble if I have a failure and they discover oil in the gas. I have NO idea what kind of reaction I will get.

My single concern with this plan is that they will insist that I use 5-20 oil. I use Valvoline 5-30 synthetic mix now. I'll let you know. I plan to take it to them next week.

 

You seem to be where I was in 1970 after buying my first new car at age 18: a Toyota Corolla Sprinter.

I wanted to baby it, so I took it to a Toyota dealer in Austin Tx that just happens to sell Mercedes.

I paid $36. for a 12k mile check which would clean spark plugs, and adjust valves.

That was the best $36. I ever wasted, because nobody touches my oil anymore, and those valves were actually fun to adjust.

Read these threads like mad for about a year; all these engineering types on here have given you free R&D.

Pick any xw40 oil you want, but additives in the oil are a waste of money, and can throw off the additive package.

Use whatever fuel premix you want, and use your Mazda web page to document when you change oil or dealer if you have to.

I can tell you're not a lawyer, since you're still somewhat naive about that oil marketing claim.

 

Can adding 8oz of premix per fill up (10-12 gallons) cause problems? My stock exhaust has gotten louder and I'm not sure if it's due to the cold but engine started to feel a bit sluggish lately. I've been premixing for the past 6K miles. I have a 2006 with 27K miles.

 

check your cat converter. It's probably toast (or, well on the way)

 

I've premixed for all of my 27k miles ( after about 2k mile break in), and I've added up to 12 oz per 10-12 gals. many times.

I've decided I like the 8 oz per fill up, but with your symptoms, you better install new coils immediately, and you might save that cat.

The 8 is a coil eater that is only discussed by word of mouth, not in the manual.

I put in the BHR coils at 23k miles, and a few of the original were bad, so get the BHR, and you won't have to do it again.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll plan on changing the coils in the near future.

 

How is the additive a waste of money if it doesn't cost anything? I am doing this strictly for the warranty, not for any expected longevity. The oil changes at the dealer cost less that I have been paying at the local place. I'm too old and fat to crawl under the car anymore just to change the oil. I'm VERY good at making people pay up on warranties.

$4000 sounds like it would pay for most of a rebuild and that is what BG offers for ANY internal part failure.

I did pay $650 for a rebuild on my RX4 in 1975. Those were the good old days. The wankels were better then IMO. They weren't overburdened with computerized pollution controls. You could even run the engine without a distributor cap.

I have read all 130 pages of this thread. Yes, there are a VERY FEW people on here that are giving real data. The majority though are either just parroting what other people have said or are only offering completely subjective opinions.

 

Those protection plans are always bs. Its like castrols(I think?) engine protection plan, the fine print basically says they can exclude any vehicle from the warranty for the listed reasons, very similar to the list for BG oils.

The agreement you are entering into with them says they will replace your engine, then lists what parts are covered. Like every other "warranty" similar to it it only lists pistons and parts that would go with a piston engine. You will have a hard time making them honor it on a rotary because of that, probably impossible to get coverage for it from them. Also read the part with 4 red dots, it lists the reasons they can exclude your vehicle. My favorite part is the "misuse, abuse, or negligence" part of it, that could be anything.




I do agree dealer oil changes are WAY cheaper than doing it yourself though, and more peace of mind as well. I can buy 6 oil changes for $75 at my dealer, they use 5w20 so I do not do that but damn is it cheap. Cost me ~$22 for a 5+ gallon jug of 10w40 and then around $8 for the filter.

 

I haven't started premixing yet, but after researching the topic I believe I want to start. I purchased 8oz of "Super Tech" Universal 2-Cycle Engine Oil for air-cooled 2-cycle engines. Picked it up at Walmart. Didn't buy more because I don't know if it will be appropriate for the engine or not. Can anyone give me some insight on this? Would it be safe to use?

 

I've been using that Super Tech for years; buy it by the gallon. Seems to work fine. The sweet spot for me is at 200:1.

 

Ah that's good news. Planning on starting this tomorrow before going to go drive The Devil's Whip (NC80)! I'll probably be close to a quarter tank in the car... how much should I mix in? 2 quarts?

 

*2oz

 

Around 1/2oz per gallon of fuel for easy calculation. Example 10 gallons of gas = 5oz oil.
As I said, I mix at 200:1 which would be slightly more.