Engine Rebuild - Additional Components?
02-28-2009, 06:49 PM
#26
I have done the pellet bypass, and it was with the suggestion of somebody we all respect around here. I did it when I rebuilt my engine a couple summers ago and I simply wait for the car to warm up a few minutes before I place a load on it. I am NOT saying I disagree with one point of view or another, simply that I have not observed any ill effects from doing so. From what I have been told and what I have read, the thermal pellet is for quicker warm-ups and, hence, emissions-control.
After thinking it over I decided I would rather adopt a different driving strategy thanto risk warped rotors from overheating.
On the other hand, I wonder if any engine damage has been recorded with the Renesis from pellet failure.
After thinking it over I decided I would rather adopt a different driving strategy thanto risk warped rotors from overheating.
On the other hand, I wonder if any engine damage has been recorded with the Renesis from pellet failure.
To completely contradict what I previously said I would assume it is a fail open system. But I would assume the seals would go way before that would present a problem. If I had to guess.
02-28-2009, 06:53 PM
#27
I don't think it is, and that is why rotors warp when the pellet fails; no cooling oil to spray the underside of the rotor so they overheat.
But I am not sure a Renny has had that happen yet.
But I am not sure a Renny has had that happen yet.
02-28-2009, 07:15 PM
#28
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Really good thread...probably should be touched also about getting Mazda's uncut sideseals and fitting them for tighter tolerances. I don't have the engine manual for the Renesis in front of me at the moment to quote further, but regardless something that should be looked into and Ray can probably expand...
02-28-2009, 07:25 PM
#29
Really good thread...probably should be touched also about getting Mazda's uncut sideseals and fitting them for tighter tolerances. I don't have the engine manual for the Renesis in front of me at the moment to quote further, but regardless something that should be looked into and Ray can probably expand...
Cutting one's own side seal clearances is ONE thing that I do not feel overly-cautious telling the novice NOT to do. The first-timer should simply use the letter designations. The thing is, for boosted apps, custom-cut side seals are the better way to go and that takes hiring somebody else to rebuild the engine.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 02-28-2009 at 07:34 PM.
02-28-2009, 08:21 PM
#30
Cutting one's own side seal clearances is ONE thing that I do not feel overly-cautious telling the novice NOT to do. The first-timer should simply use the letter designations. The thing is, for boosted apps, custom-cut side seals are the better way to go and that takes hiring somebody else to rebuild the engine.
To the OP, this is the engine manual RedDevil is referring to and also would be a good piece to pick up.
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=148
02-28-2009, 08:31 PM
#31
I can tell you, firsthand, that it's a little more that just sandpaper and feeler gauges. I used to hold that same opinion but, after revisiting the issue with one of the rebuild God's associates recently (and thinking back upon the rebuilds I have done) on the matter of rebuilds I am starting to change my mind and for several reasons. NONE of which has to do with preserving my own profitability. Remote rebuilds are not easy, fun, or convenient for anybody.
It has to do with the fact that the side seal gaps have multiple axes upon which a proper "cut" must be established and one must have a deft touch with it.
Plus, you need a benchgrinder to get close to the proper gap and that makes it REAL easy to cut the seals too short.
In my own rebuild, which was my first, I used the letter designation method and I have hammered my engine (nitrous, too) with no problems since.
I am not saying it cannot be done by the novice, just that they better be careful and not assume too much the first time through.
It has to do with the fact that the side seal gaps have multiple axes upon which a proper "cut" must be established and one must have a deft touch with it.
Plus, you need a benchgrinder to get close to the proper gap and that makes it REAL easy to cut the seals too short.
In my own rebuild, which was my first, I used the letter designation method and I have hammered my engine (nitrous, too) with no problems since.
I am not saying it cannot be done by the novice, just that they better be careful and not assume too much the first time through.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 02-28-2009 at 08:37 PM.
02-28-2009, 08:40 PM
#32
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I can tell you, firsthand, that it's a little more that just sandpaper and feeler gauges. I used to hold that same opinion but, after revisiting the issue with one of the rebuild God's associates recently (and thinking back upon the rebuilds I have done) on the matter of rebuilds I am starting to change my mind and for several reasons. NONE of which has to do with preserving my own profitability. Remote rebuilds are not easy, fun, or convenient for anybody.
It has to do with the fact that the side seal gaps have multiple axes upon which a proper "cut" must be established and one must have a deft touch with it.
Plus, you need a benchgrinder to get close to the proper gap and that makes it REAL easy to cut the seals too short.
In my own rebuild, which was my first, I used the letter designation method and I have hammered my engine (nitrous, too) with no problems since.
I am not saying it cannot be done by the novice, just that they better be careful and not assume too much the first time through.
It has to do with the fact that the side seal gaps have multiple axes upon which a proper "cut" must be established and one must have a deft touch with it.
Plus, you need a benchgrinder to get close to the proper gap and that makes it REAL easy to cut the seals too short.
In my own rebuild, which was my first, I used the letter designation method and I have hammered my engine (nitrous, too) with no problems since.
I am not saying it cannot be done by the novice, just that they better be careful and not assume too much the first time through.
02-28-2009, 09:44 PM
#33
At the very least, use the old ones to practice because the one thing that is required of a side-seal-cutting rotary-builder is touch.
I am done with the Chicken Little stuff.
I am done with the Chicken Little stuff.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 02-28-2009 at 09:50 PM.
03-01-2009, 01:03 AM
#34
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Well, the Atkins Rotary rebuild kit comes with side seals, but I don't think they are trimmed. However, I feel that would be in his area of expertise, so maybe they are, or can be upon request perhaps. More things to look into.
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