Chris Ryan

Titles says it all... i drive it hard everyday get shitty mpg and was wondering if it would shorten the engine life or actually make it last longer due to carbon not being able to stick anywhere ?

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

The only thing you need to be careful with really is coolant temps. The temp guage is a dummy guage and will not start to move higher till its too late.
Also, stay on top of your ignition.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Driving it hard all the time will largely only kill your mileage, AS LONG AS you never overheat it. If you approach track levels of extended exhaust temps, then you can start warping your side seal springs, and eventually it will push a side seal out of it's place where it will clip an exhaust port and boom goes your engine.

Though driving hard all the time WILL kill your mileage. It takes gas to make power. The more power you are using, the more gas you will burn through. If you REALLY want to know if you have a mileage problem, drive an entire tank on the highway, with cruise control on at ~100km/hr.

xexok

Riwwp I think I remember reading on here that if you drive it hard you also wear your bearings much faster, so you really have to choose what you want to wear. You can either baby it and kill it with carbon or drive it hard and have fun and have some other type of engine failure eventually. Is that right?

Chris Ryan

Had the gauge moving up while pushing it in mouton roads ended up not being able to get higher than 3k...

what do u mean by stay on top of my ignition

ken-x8

There's got to be some point where driving hard affects engine life. Otherwise race engines would last as long as street engines.

Chris - for the sake of data collection, try driving moderately for a tank or two and see what that does for your kilometerage.

Ken

Chris Ryan

Well when i said i get shitty mileage was not really a complaint because i know its cause i drive it hard... but i am worried if i keep driving it like that i might blow my engine up like staying at 7500rpm for 5 min and stuff. also how do i know if I'm overheating if the gauges only moves up when its too late ?

Chris Ryan

thread wasn't about mpg actually made a mistake in first post...
just meant that today i revved up a mountain road for 20 kms staying CONSTANTLY over 6k rpm... and higher ( burned up 10l of gasoline these 20 km ) but the question was if i am about t0 blow my up or whatever or if its good for it

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Driving it hard only wears the bearings if you have insufficient lubrication. Typically fresh oil of a sufficient viscosity will keep all bearing wear away. However, driving it really hard heats up the oil significantly, which lowers the viscosity and burns out the ability to lubricate. Once this happens, you are wearing the bearings at idle as well as at full throttle redline. But this is true of piston engines as well. Fresh oil will protect the engine from hard use, worn oil....not so much.

But yes, if you baby it all the time you will over carbon it, and driving it hard all the time (like a full race car) will kill it from heat problems. Street driving it's pretty hard to get to the point of side seal problems unless you add forced induction (power = heat), but street driving you typically don't have nearly as fresh oil and cooling system maintenance as a race car, so they are prone to be weak points more readily.

Having the OEM coolant temp gauge move at all is a bad thing. Very bad. It doesn't start moving until you are already in critical damage territory. It's possible to escape unharmed from this, but not likely. A single overheating can warp your engine block parts, blow coolant seals, etc...

Certainly is. The race engines that see only 100% throttle and 100% track duty typically have side seal failure. See my above points on hard street driving and oil/cooling though. Different set of problems from different care of the car.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

See my new owner's thread (first link in my sig), post #3 I think. Importance of Ignition Health.

Might want to read all of the first 9 posts though, since you keep starting new threads regarding fairly basic info.

Yes, 20kms of 6k+ is probably going to be superheating your side seals and overtaxing your cooling system. Full throttle high RPM is good for getting rid of carbon, but let it cool down! 7,500rpm for 5 minutes is almost certainly entering engine damage territory....

Chris Ryan

thats how i daily drive it... i drive it way harder when going uphill and when there is no traffic. how long should it last ? ^^

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

In general, that driving demonstrated in the video isn't harmful to the engine. Although I certainly would have upshifted a gear rather than letting it hang at redline like you did a few times. All you are doing at that RPM in light throttle is generating heat. A LOT of it.

That driving isn't anywhere near the race level conditions that I was referring to.


And there are various ways to get an aftermarket water temp gauge, including through the ODB2 port and a physical gauge.

Chris Ryan

Aight ill work on it thanks for ur answers how much would it be for a new gauge? what needs to be replaced ?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There is a thread on here, Calling all Gauges I believe. Gives lots of examples of gauges and where you can mount them. I use a bluetooth ODB2 adapter, my android tablet on a mount, and the Torque app. Just uses the OEM info. All told, if buying just for the gauge, it's more expensive than a gauge would be, but i get full use out of my tablet in many many other ways, not to mention all the other ODB2 data, logging, CEL codes, etc... from the ODB2 adapter. So I prefer that method.

bse50

You're doing it wrong. No need to keep high rpms when driving behind cars.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Man I want to go drive on that road now...

Like mentioned before no need to hold the rpms so high. IIRC the stock water pump does not work well above 7krpms, but luckily there is a solution, the REmedy water pump. Might want to look into it.

Chris Ryan

You should come over there is plenty of roads like that around in every directions... too bad i couldn't film everything gonna make another clip later on when i clear my memory and after i do my ... granny driving test for mpgs...

Chris Ryan

well the only reason i keep them high is because i want power if i can pass them thats about it my question was just wether or not it would kill my engine faster. Now i know that i should be more careful at least going uphill

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Just shift to a higher gear until you can pass them, then down shift to an appropriate gear (puts you at ~5,000-6,000rpm) and hit the gas. Done properly, you can shift in less than a second or so and you have the power. And aren't uselessly building up heat in the meantime.

HexRX

Quick question: In regards to the temp gauge moving, I was at the track a month or so ago and had temps go up to 232 F I pulled off and popped the hood to allow it to cool, sprayed the radiator and the such.
Was 230 still within the safe range?