Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
10-18-2011, 08:53 AM
#1729
10-18-2011, 09:16 AM
#1730
Registered
Well I just installed my SOHN adapter and I am still running premix (Idemitsu) with the gas. I am now ready to change over to a synthetic oil for the crankcase.
I've read through this and I'm surprised by the huge variety of oil weights run. I'm really not certain what the best weight is to be used. I think I'm going to start off with Amsoil 5w30. It's an oil I'm familiar with and it's readily available. It's thicker than the stock 5w20, but not too thick to where I would be worrying about bearing clearances and lubrication.
We'll see how it goes I guess. I bought my car with only 1000 miles on the new engine so I'm hoping all these preventative mods help with the engine life.
I've read through this and I'm surprised by the huge variety of oil weights run. I'm really not certain what the best weight is to be used. I think I'm going to start off with Amsoil 5w30. It's an oil I'm familiar with and it's readily available. It's thicker than the stock 5w20, but not too thick to where I would be worrying about bearing clearances and lubrication.
We'll see how it goes I guess. I bought my car with only 1000 miles on the new engine so I'm hoping all these preventative mods help with the engine life.
Last edited by AkursedX; 10-18-2011 at 09:18 AM.
10-18-2011, 10:29 AM
#1731
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well I just installed my SOHN adapter and I am still running premix (Idemitsu) with the gas. I am now ready to change over to a synthetic oil for the crankcase.
I've read through this and I'm surprised by the huge variety of oil weights run. I'm really not certain what the best weight is to be used. I think I'm going to start off with Amsoil 5w30. It's an oil I'm familiar with and it's readily available. It's thicker than the stock 5w20, but not too thick to where I would be worrying about bearing clearances and lubrication.
We'll see how it goes I guess. I bought my car with only 1000 miles on the new engine so I'm hoping all these preventative mods help with the engine life.
I've read through this and I'm surprised by the huge variety of oil weights run. I'm really not certain what the best weight is to be used. I think I'm going to start off with Amsoil 5w30. It's an oil I'm familiar with and it's readily available. It's thicker than the stock 5w20, but not too thick to where I would be worrying about bearing clearances and lubrication.
We'll see how it goes I guess. I bought my car with only 1000 miles on the new engine so I'm hoping all these preventative mods help with the engine life.
10-18-2011, 10:53 AM
#1732
Registered
Here are the oils that I like. I have my reasons but make your own decisions. There is no one right answer and just because I didn't list it doesn't mean it's bad.
Conventional oils:
1. Havoline
2. Castrol
Synthetic oils:
1. Royal Purple
2. Amsoil
3. Redline
Conventional oils:
1. Havoline
2. Castrol
Synthetic oils:
1. Royal Purple
2. Amsoil
3. Redline
10-19-2011, 01:45 AM
#1733
Ok, sounds good; you're thickening up some, but even if you didn't, you'll have less wear metals on the latest 10,500 mile uoa.
10-19-2011, 01:49 AM
#1734
10-19-2011, 05:59 AM
#1735
RX8 Sunlight Silver 04
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lund
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5w-40 Fully synthetic Castrol
I use 5w-40 fully synthetic, and currently the weather is cooling of here in Sweden, and now I got some lighter brown moisture on the oil dipstick. It may be condensation, im not sure. But I think this is a good choice, at least for me living in Sweden using 95 petrol.
Last edited by PureRX8Lover; 10-19-2011 at 06:07 AM.
10-19-2011, 06:18 AM
#1736
Yea I went thick since it was summer time and "it couldn't hurt". Guess we will see what the UOA says. I plan on trying a few different flavors of oil and getting results for each .... its the only real way you can understand what your engine prefers in the climate that you live in. I am back down to 5w30 RP for the upcoming winter season, I would have gone with a 0w40 of something, but I had a case of 5w that I needed to run through.
10-20-2011, 04:52 PM
#1738
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
10-20-2011, 11:34 PM
#1741
Registered
It's news to me but then again I've used it for over a decade with no problems.
10-21-2011, 12:59 PM
#1743
lol, so in the results thread you mentioned that you had good success with the M1 oil. I was actually reading up a bit and saw that their 0w40 is actually given high praise. Might be interesting to give that a shot and see what my numbers look like. We can then compare numbers and be .... oil buddies 
10-21-2011, 01:30 PM
#1744
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
lol, so in the results thread you mentioned that you had good success with the M1 oil. I was actually reading up a bit and saw that their 0w40 is actually given high praise. Might be interesting to give that a shot and see what my numbers look like. We can then compare numbers and be .... oil buddies
If you look in the UOA thread you will see my report and REDRX3RX8's reports running M1 0W-40. REDRX3RX8 actually changes his every 5,000 miles (one a year for him I think) and it really showed no signs of break down. Compare my 0W-40 M1 report to my GC Syntec 0W-30 (adored by many on BITOG) and you will see how superior the M1 is.
10-21-2011, 01:47 PM
#1745
Registered
It's so funny that people put all their faith in comparing UOA numbers yet not a single person has any evidence from an actual engine yet alone many of them that shows any true correlation to what all those individual numbers on a chart on a piece of paper say and how each little digit increase affects things. It's all interpretive and most people look at charts like that and draw conclusions from them like, "x number is higher on this oil than that one. That means that one is bad and will kill your engine". Don't get me wrong. I'm technical minded and find this stuff fascinating but there are some things that aren't really useful other than just for the sake of personal knowledge. BITOG isn't as neutral as many think it is.
10-21-2011, 01:47 PM
#1746
Registered
It's so funny that people put all their faith in comparing UOA numbers yet not a single person has any evidence from an actual engine yet alone many of them that shows any true correlation to what all those individual numbers on a chart on a piece of paper say and how each little digit increase affects things. It's all interpretive and most people look at charts like that and draw conclusions from them like, "x number is higher on this oil than that one. That means that one is bad and will kill your engine". Don't get me wrong. I'm technical minded and find this stuff fascinating but there are some things that aren't really useful other than just for the sake of personal knowledge. BITOG isn't as neutral as many think it is.
10-21-2011, 01:55 PM
#1747
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah, the numbers can be confusing and I know that many have doubted the testing methods but I have never seen any data to suggest that Blackstones or others testing methods are BS. I just compare my reports and make changes based on that. But I can tell you that my latest Blackstone report confirmed what I already suspected was going on with my last motor (coolant seal busted). Also, Blackstone always told me silicone was high and I knew that because of the silicone oozing out between the housings and Rob told me he had never seen so much silicone used in a rotary before. So obviously they are testing the samples pretty accurately.
But I can say that my bearings looked good after using M1 so i will continue to use it after the break in on my new motor from Pineapple is over. Rob recommends not using synthetic during break in so I won't.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/
But I can say that my bearings looked good after using M1 so i will continue to use it after the break in on my new motor from Pineapple is over. Rob recommends not using synthetic during break in so I won't.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 10-21-2011 at 01:59 PM.
10-21-2011, 02:15 PM
#1749
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah we all have to make decisions based on what we have seen. I know of two guys who have used RP in their motors and both engines showed significant bearing wear down to the copper so that's enough for me not to use it. To each his own.
Hoss-05's factory Mazda reman will be pulled apart sooner than later for his build and we will see how the M1 0W-40 fared in his motor.
10-21-2011, 02:18 PM
#1750
It's so funny that people put all their faith in comparing UOA numbers yet not a single person has any evidence from an actual engine yet alone many of them that shows any true correlation to what all those individual numbers on a chart on a piece of paper say and how each little digit increase affects things. It's all interpretive and most people look at charts like that and draw conclusions from them like, "x number is higher on this oil than that one. That means that one is bad and will kill your engine". Don't get me wrong. I'm technical minded and find this stuff fascinating but there are some things that aren't really useful other than just for the sake of personal knowledge. BITOG isn't as neutral as many think it is.
Yeah, the numbers can be confusing and I know that many have doubted the testing methods but I have never seen any data to suggest that Blackstones or others testing methods are BS. I just compare my reports and make changes based on that. But I can tell you that my latest Blackstone report confirmed what I already suspected was going on with my last motor (coolant seal busted). Also, Blackstone always told me silicone was high and I knew that because of the silicone oozing out between the housings and Rob told me he had never seen so much silicone used in a rotary before. So obviously they are testing the samples pretty accurately.
But I can say that my bearings looked good after using M1 so i will continue to use it after the break in on my new motor from Pineapple is over. Rob recommends not using synthetic during break in so I won't.
But I can say that my bearings looked good after using M1 so i will continue to use it after the break in on my new motor from Pineapple is over. Rob recommends not using synthetic during break in so I won't.
