fwiw, just sent in a sample of 3000mi on 5w30, and 3500mi on 10w40, both royal purple. 5w changed out w/ 7000mi on the engine, 10w with 10500mi on the engine. Will post UOI when I get the results.

 

Hint : you will want to switch to Redline

for some reason, it seems that Mobil1 might last longer. don't know for sure, will have some POA tested soon.

 

yep that one is next on my list to try out based on some of the comments here, and a 0w40 based on a conversation with flashwing. All in all I will wait for the UOA to decide the path I take

 

Couple posts above yours. I offer the best warranty on renesis rebuilds that I know of 2yr/24k and this is my recommendation w/ my own money to stand behind it. Take it for what you will.

 

Well I just installed my SOHN adapter and I am still running premix (Idemitsu) with the gas. I am now ready to change over to a synthetic oil for the crankcase.

I've read through this and I'm surprised by the huge variety of oil weights run. I'm really not certain what the best weight is to be used. I think I'm going to start off with Amsoil 5w30. It's an oil I'm familiar with and it's readily available. It's thicker than the stock 5w20, but not too thick to where I would be worrying about bearing clearances and lubrication.

We'll see how it goes I guess. I bought my car with only 1000 miles on the new engine so I'm hoping all these preventative mods help with the engine life.

 

You should be good, Amsoil is good stuff. There is no best weight really, we all make our own decisions based on many different factors.

 

Here are the oils that I like. I have my reasons but make your own decisions. There is no one right answer and just because I didn't list it doesn't mean it's bad.

Conventional oils:
1. Havoline
2. Castrol

Synthetic oils:
1. Royal Purple
2. Amsoil
3. Redline

 

Ok, sounds good; you're thickening up some, but even if you didn't, you'll have less wear metals on the latest 10,500 mile uoa.

 

Considering you're a lean, mean testing machine, you know what weight oil to run!

 

I use 5w-40 fully synthetic, and currently the weather is cooling of here in Sweden, and now I got some lighter brown moisture on the oil dipstick. It may be condensation, im not sure. But I think this is a good choice, at least for me living in Sweden using 95 petrol.

 

Yea I went thick since it was summer time and "it couldn't hurt". Guess we will see what the UOA says. I plan on trying a few different flavors of oil and getting results for each .... its the only real way you can understand what your engine prefers in the climate that you live in. I am back down to 5w30 RP for the upcoming winter season, I would have gone with a 0w40 of something, but I had a case of 5w that I needed to run through.

 

look ok i guess ... gunna look em over a bit more

Edit:

Hrm, both my SUS/cSt are pretty low ...

 

Hey, hey, hey !!! Wrong thread

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=oil+analysis

 

Oh, and Royal Purple is not all it is cracked up to be. No news to me.

 

<-- dammit, noob alert

Yea I can see why, but hey thats why I am doing this. Next oil change will be some yummy redline

 

It's news to me but then again I've used it for over a decade with no problems.

 

Fixed.

 

lol, so in the results thread you mentioned that you had good success with the M1 oil. I was actually reading up a bit and saw that their 0w40 is actually given high praise. Might be interesting to give that a shot and see what my numbers look like. We can then compare numbers and be .... oil buddies

 

If you look in the UOA thread you will see my report and REDRX3RX8's reports running M1 0W-40. REDRX3RX8 actually changes his every 5,000 miles (one a year for him I think) and it really showed no signs of break down. Compare my 0W-40 M1 report to my GC Syntec 0W-30 (adored by many on BITOG) and you will see how superior the M1 is.

 

It's so funny that people put all their faith in comparing UOA numbers yet not a single person has any evidence from an actual engine yet alone many of them that shows any true correlation to what all those individual numbers on a chart on a piece of paper say and how each little digit increase affects things. It's all interpretive and most people look at charts like that and draw conclusions from them like, "x number is higher on this oil than that one. That means that one is bad and will kill your engine". Don't get me wrong. I'm technical minded and find this stuff fascinating but there are some things that aren't really useful other than just for the sake of personal knowledge. BITOG isn't as neutral as many think it is.

 

It's so funny that people put all their faith in comparing UOA numbers yet not a single person has any evidence from an actual engine yet alone many of them that shows any true correlation to what all those individual numbers on a chart on a piece of paper say and how each little digit increase affects things. It's all interpretive and most people look at charts like that and draw conclusions from them like, "x number is higher on this oil than that one. That means that one is bad and will kill your engine". Don't get me wrong. I'm technical minded and find this stuff fascinating but there are some things that aren't really useful other than just for the sake of personal knowledge. BITOG isn't as neutral as many think it is.

 

Yeah, the numbers can be confusing and I know that many have doubted the testing methods but I have never seen any data to suggest that Blackstones or others testing methods are BS. I just compare my reports and make changes based on that. But I can tell you that my latest Blackstone report confirmed what I already suspected was going on with my last motor (coolant seal busted). Also, Blackstone always told me silicone was high and I knew that because of the silicone oozing out between the housings and Rob told me he had never seen so much silicone used in a rotary before. So obviously they are testing the samples pretty accurately.

But I can say that my bearings looked good after using M1 so i will continue to use it after the break in on my new motor from Pineapple is over. Rob recommends not using synthetic during break in so I won't.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/

 

I have pulled apart plenty of my own motors and customers who have used Royal Purple and have great results and that is all I care about.

 

Yeah we all have to make decisions based on what we have seen. I know of two guys who have used RP in their motors and both engines showed significant bearing wear down to the copper so that's enough for me not to use it. To each his own.

Hoss-05's factory Mazda reman will be pulled apart sooner than later for his build and we will see how the M1 0W-40 fared in his motor.

 

Wholeheartedly agree with all of your points here, and dont get me wrong, I am not putting all my faith in a UOA and thinking im going to walk away without my engine ever dying. I am just one of those guys who can't go on and put something in there without actually knowing whats going on. If anything, this educates my use of a particular product so that when someone says "wtf, mobil one/rp/amsoil/redline is a load of garbage why do you use that", at least i can turn around and say, "well, my engine showed great results when running....blah"