Coolant Change HELP
11-08-2010, 11:59 AM
#52
absolutely disgusting!!
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Here's a question or two. What's the difference between red 50/50 coolant and a mostly clear with slightly yellowish green tint coolant? I don't know what the clear one (what's in my 04 right now) is because I got the car used 20k ago. It's been leaking from just to the left(passenger side) of where the alternator is since yesterday and I need to keep coolant in there for now so I can get around. Will it be safe to put red 50/50 or just straight up green antifreeze in there for a week or so?
10-02-2012, 12:42 PM
#53
This is a very good DIY. Thanks to OP and other who've supplemented with photos, which really help.
One thing that probably should be discussed is the choice of coolant, given that many, if not most, aftermarket coolants that meet Mazda's requirements of "ethylene glycol base (not propylene glycol + NO silicates + NO borates" contain 2-EH/2-EHA and/or sebacates, which are the two organic acids found in the orginal dexcool made by Halvoline in the mid 1990s that caused so much controversy.
I am not claiming to know who is correct or who isn't, and some claim the damage to coolant systems, lower intake manifold gaskets, and motors was specific to particular types of General Motors engines (especially the 3.1, 3.4 and 3.5 liter motors), but others claim that certain organic acids essentially weaken certain materials made to use some coolant system seals (and some certain motor seals, which becomes relevant if coolant migrates towards them).
I don't know if this should be a supplemental to this thread or a separate one, but in case anyone is curious, here's what I posted:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...licone-238638/
Revised title really should be "Many aftermarket coolants contain same organic acids that caused controversy when first unveiled in Dexcool (and even some OEM coolants sold by dealers under manufacturer labels do (such as Toyota's Super Long Life Coolant)."....I know, that's a long title.
One thing that probably should be discussed is the choice of coolant, given that many, if not most, aftermarket coolants that meet Mazda's requirements of "ethylene glycol base (not propylene glycol + NO silicates + NO borates" contain 2-EH/2-EHA and/or sebacates, which are the two organic acids found in the orginal dexcool made by Halvoline in the mid 1990s that caused so much controversy.
I am not claiming to know who is correct or who isn't, and some claim the damage to coolant systems, lower intake manifold gaskets, and motors was specific to particular types of General Motors engines (especially the 3.1, 3.4 and 3.5 liter motors), but others claim that certain organic acids essentially weaken certain materials made to use some coolant system seals (and some certain motor seals, which becomes relevant if coolant migrates towards them).
I don't know if this should be a supplemental to this thread or a separate one, but in case anyone is curious, here's what I posted:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...licone-238638/
Revised title really should be "Many aftermarket coolants contain same organic acids that caused controversy when first unveiled in Dexcool (and even some OEM coolants sold by dealers under manufacturer labels do (such as Toyota's Super Long Life Coolant)."....I know, that's a long title.
Last edited by RotoRocket; 10-02-2012 at 12:46 PM.
10-02-2012, 12:45 PM
#54
Here's a question or two. What's the difference between red 50/50 coolant and a mostly clear with slightly yellowish green tint coolant? I don't know what the clear one (what's in my 04 right now) is because I got the car used 20k ago. It's been leaking from just to the left(passenger side) of where the alternator is since yesterday and I need to keep coolant in there for now so I can get around. Will it be safe to put red 50/50 or just straight up green antifreeze in there for a week or so?
Whether red, yellow, amber, pink, orange or any other color, there's no way to tell without looking at bottle and maybe even having to pull up the the Material Data Safety Sheet to determine what type of coolant it is, and what it contains.
Gone forever are the days when "green coolant" was always a silicated coolant meant to be changed every 2 years/24 months."
06-17-2014, 09:36 PM
#55
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unfortunately I'm not able to take a good picture for you right now. Using a photo looking in through the driver side wheelwell that I found on the forum this is the best I can do. It's on the driver side of the engine on the centerplate between the two rotor housings. You can tell the rotor housings because you'll see the sparkplugs on each one. In this photo the greenish-gray section between the two silver rotor housings is the centerplate. At the bottom of the centerplate just above the oil pan are two bolts; one forward and one rearward. Unfortunately in this pic the subframe is in the way of seeing the forward bolt. You can just see the head of the rearward bolt sticking out and I drew a white circle approximating where the forward bolt is if the subframe wasn't in the way. The forward bolt is the coolant drain. It will gush out a stream about 16" or so to the side when you first open it so have your catch container ready to keep it from going all over the place.
Any name brand coolant will be fine.
Any name brand coolant will be fine.
07-19-2014, 03:56 PM
#57
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Great DIY.
Just performed this service on my son's 2004 RX8.
This DIY made it simple.
Used a couple of gallons of Zerex Asian pre-mix coolant.
It's P-OAT and supposedly made by CCI in Japan for Zerex.
Just performed this service on my son's 2004 RX8.
This DIY made it simple.
Used a couple of gallons of Zerex Asian pre-mix coolant.
It's P-OAT and supposedly made by CCI in Japan for Zerex.
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