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Yes, I HAVE looked at multiple threads on this site, so NYCGPS does NOT need to step in just to whine about 'noobs'.
Looking to do an LS-mod upgrade. I JUST got the thing working perfectly after a full rebuild, and on the MAIDEN VOYAGE, 2 coils burned out and I needed a tow. I've seen the D585 coils and I think I'm going that route (can't quite swing a BHR mod....yet!). HERE are my questions:
1. Is there a difference between a UF262 coil and a D585 coil? They look like the same part.
2. Has anyone tried the D510C coils? They specify they work on LS2 LS3 LS4 LS7 LS9 and they are square (but no heatsink) and appear to have the same connector. I think it would make a cleaner install, but I won't sacrifice performance for aesthetics.
3. Is a retune REQUIRED for the LS mod? I have seen one or two YouTubers claim it was a bolt-on mod, good to go.
You don't need a retune. The only thing you would really tune is dwell time. Good to do, but not the end of the world and BHR's fully plug and play coils should solve that for you without any extra expenditures, are they that much more expensive than whatever else is out there?
Just go with OEM coils until you can swing a real upgrade like the updated BHR or go full out SakeBomb.
I had the old GM style BHR kit for +20/-30K miles.
When the new SakeBomb kit first came out, there was a lot of discussion about it.
The consensus was it was overkill for an NA Renesis, but I wanted to try it just because I liked wrenching and I wanted to test it out and review it.
Not sure exactly now, but has to be around 50K problem free miles.
Not long after I installed the old BHR kit, one of the harness wires frayed against the engine hangar and shorted out the engine fuse.
I had to remove the hangar.
I was looking at the IGN-1A coils as well. I was a little concerned about the wiring on those. They have 5 pins, not 4, and require a switched 12v source to be wired in. If I could find a source for just the wires, I would go that route. It looks like a VERY clean install.
My intention is to 1. obtain the coils, 2. obtain the wiring harness, and 3. fabricate a bracket to hold everything. I can get the coils for around $40-$50 apiece, after which I would need to get the wires. The only places I'm finding the wiring adapters is in complete kits, and they're going for $400+. If I can do it for $200, I'll go that route all day.
I'm not cheap, I'm frugal!
Regarding my initial issue, I'm testing my coils by checking resistance between the center pin and pin 1 on the coil. Of the 2 that failed on me, one shows open circuit, the other is 1.23 K ohms (1230). I read somewhere that 1300 ohms is the cutoff, anything below need to be replaced. Is there a high limit? Because I have 4 OEM coils that read right around 1600 ohms, and I was thinking about swapping them all. I also have 3 other OEM coils that read right around 1430 each. I initially tried the 1430 coils, but no joy on restart.
I may have another issue, as it WAS the 'maiden voyage' after the rebuild. Compression seems to be OK still, though. I do NOT have a rotary compression tester, I'm using the method where the schrader valve is removed from a standard piston comp tester, and then filming the gauge with my phone in slo-mo. It's not perfect, but it does show whether I have a seal issue. Getting between 95 and 105 PSI on all faces.
My next diagnostic will be this weekend. I've fashioned a rig that holds all 4 plugs that I can ground to the engine, then watch as I crank to verify all plugs are firing. This unfortunately does not tell me the STRENGTH of the spark, just the presence of it.
Yes, I bought someone else's headache. The car 'needed work' but ran, and came with a butt-ton of extra parts.
Last edited by GregSki; Feb 2, 2024 at 12:12 PM.
Reason: Addes a comment at the end.
I wouldn't judge compression after one drive cycle. Also 95-105.psi at what rpm? Rotary compression is rpm dependent. At 300 rpm that's failing, at 200 rpm that's nice and healthy. It's reasonably even at least, so that's a good sign. Factory tolerance for difference between faces is 1 kg/cm2 = 14ish psi.
Just go with OEM coils until you can swing a real upgrade like the updated BHR or go full out SakeBomb.
I had the old GM style BHR kit for +20/-30K miles.
When the new SakeBomb kit first came out, there was a lot of discussion about it.
The consensus was it was overkill for an NA Renesis, but I wanted to try it just because I liked wrenching and I wanted to test it out and review it.
Not sure exactly now, but has to be around 50K problem free miles.
Hi,Just wanted to chime in on after market coils.I’ve been using Ryan Rotary Performance coils in my 2007 black NA GT with great success.And guaranteed for life! I also can highly recommend BHR globally compliant coils that I have in my 2005 Titanium Grey NA GT also with great success-thanks Charles!Both of these coils have served the twins well with quick starts smooth idles and happy redlines!
So - I figured out why it was running beautifully, and then just went to crap. It had absolutely NOTHING to do with ignition. The fact that I was still getting good compression numbers from spinning the starter had to do with A. it having brand new seals everywhere, and B. no ignition was happening. If there WAS ignition happening, the compression would be WAY off due to everything wobbling around because IT SPUN A BEARING!
Yep, one-in-a-million happened to me. On the maiden voyage, the bearing in the front stationary spun inside the journal and screwed everything up.
I am SOOOO lucky that I have spare parts to do another whole motor. Here is a look at the aftermath:
