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Changing Rear Pads.... Help please.

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Old 03-28-2010, 08:16 PM
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Changing Rear Pads.... Help please.

Hey im doing my rear pads. And i cant get the piston to turn back in so i can fit the caliper over my new pads. Ive been turning it with needle nose pliers for almost an hour (clockwise) and it hasent moved. Do i really need the tool??? Anyone else had this problem please let me know so i can drive tomorrow thanks.
Old 03-28-2010, 08:35 PM
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Turn the nipple bleader valve thingy to release the pressure and remove the cap on the brake fluid that tends to help too. Next use a big *** C Clamp to push the pistong back in or if your brakes are not that old you can use your man panties and just use your hands to push it back in.
Old 03-28-2010, 08:45 PM
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Oh and I would not use needle nose pliers to turn the piston. You can damage the rubber around the piston then you would need to rebuild them. Its not hard but its a pain in the *** to rebuild well not realy lol just takes up time
Old 03-28-2010, 08:49 PM
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thanks in nipple do you mean that small bolt on the top of the caliper that looks like a nipnip??
Old 03-29-2010, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by @!!narotordo
Turn the nipple bleader valve thingy to release the pressure and remove the cap on the brake fluid that tends to help too. Next use a big *** C Clamp to push the pistong back in or if your brakes are not that old you can use your man panties and just use your hands to push it back in.
You can't just push the piston back, It has to be screwed back in. You also need to make sure that the final orientation of the piston slots are such that the pin on the back of the pad fits in one of the slots. It's not necessary to relieve any pressure.

I bought the tool but still had to modify it for a proper fit. Can probably make something to work without too much difficulty.
Old 03-29-2010, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Delmeister
You can't just push the piston back, It has to be screwed back in. You also need to make sure that the final orientation of the piston slots are such that the pin on the back of the pad fits in one of the slots. It's not necessary to relieve any pressure.

I bought the tool but still had to modify it for a proper fit. Can probably make something to work without too much difficulty.
+1 you might be able to rent the tool needed fromt he local autoparts store. Its a prett common tool. It's a real pita without the tool.
Old 03-29-2010, 04:17 PM
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I had the same problem with my rear brakes and bought the tool. One problem even though i pushed hard on the piston it still would not retract. So i used the tool for a little bit then took a C clamp and put some pressure on the piston then back to the drive cube and it finally went in a little, i repeated the process until the piston was in fully.
Old 03-29-2010, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Delmeister
You also need to make sure that the final orientation of the piston slots are such that the pin on the back of the pad fits in one of the slots.
When I put on new rotors and (OEM) pads, I didn't pay attention to the orientation yet it went on anyway. Would there be obvious problems with the rear brakes operating if the piston was squashing the pin? I've been meaning to check this lately...
Old 03-29-2010, 05:59 PM
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i borrowed the tool from my local autozone. they didn't charge for it, but it was a pain in the *** even with the c-clamp.
Old 03-29-2010, 06:05 PM
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Hopefully you remembered to remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir.
That would back it difficult to push the piston in.
Old 03-29-2010, 06:10 PM
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got that cube looking thingee?
Old 03-29-2010, 06:45 PM
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by maskedferret
When I put on new rotors and (OEM) pads, I didn't pay attention to the orientation yet it went on anyway. Would there be obvious problems with the rear brakes operating if the piston was squashing the pin? I've been meaning to check this lately...
Presumably, the pin is there to keep the piston from turning. If the pin has not been placed in the slot, the flat part of the piston will bear on it, and the pad will be forced against the rotor unevenly. If the friction between the piston and the pin is not too great, the piston may rotate, and then the pin will fall into the slot naturally. I used to know how this mechanism worked.
Old 03-30-2010, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Delmeister
You can't just push the piston back, It has to be screwed back in. You also need to make sure that the final orientation of the piston slots are such that the pin on the back of the pad fits in one of the slots. It's not necessary to relieve any pressure.

I bought the tool but still had to modify it for a proper fit. Can probably make something to work without too much difficulty.
Oh snap! I forgot about that cube tool for the back. You dont have to relieve the pressure but when you do its so much faster.
Old 03-30-2010, 09:19 AM
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OK ok... i figured it out got it done yesterday. What i did.

1. Remove cap from brake fluid fill spot thingy.
2. Remove top bolt on caliper ( bottom bolt will support caliper when pushing in piston )
3. remove rubber nipple from the screw on top of caliper
4. Used cube Caliper piston tool (i am now calling CCPT heh) found at Sears for 11.99 with 3/8 ext. to push in piston while turning clockwise.


Aaaaand thats it took me 20 min to finish both rear brakes That tool makes life so much easier.
Old 03-30-2010, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Brake fluid caps aren't vented?
I am old enough to remember when brake master cylinder reservoirs had rubber bellows gaskets on them.
They no longer do.
sshhh... be quite old man..........

U confuse the NOOB's
Old 03-30-2010, 07:23 PM
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thanks I feel old too now

never underestimate the power of the cube!
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