A/C Recharge Sanity Check
#1
A/C Recharge Sanity Check
Hey gang,
I have been following some threads on A/C trouble and determined that I needed to recharge my A/C. I bought the gauge kit and refrigerant and followed the book and everyone's advise here. No one addressed what to do when the compressor cycles off. Let me explain...
While the engine was on, A/C to max re-circ air, speed 4, I hooked up the gauge to the low pressure service port and began recharging. My wife (in the car) noticed an immidiate difference... yay! As the gauge hit the optimum range for charge, the compressor shut off, and the pressure wnet through the roof to over 70 psi. I called a local buddy of mine and he said to ignore the reading if the compressor is not running. When the compressor kicked back on, the pressure stayed high, so I bled off some of the pressure until I was back in the normal range. Now, when the compressor kicks off, the pressure still goes way up, but when it kicks back on again, it is normal...
Should I be concerned? Or, should I follow my friend's advise and ignore the reading when the compressor cycles off?
Cheers!
I have been following some threads on A/C trouble and determined that I needed to recharge my A/C. I bought the gauge kit and refrigerant and followed the book and everyone's advise here. No one addressed what to do when the compressor cycles off. Let me explain...
While the engine was on, A/C to max re-circ air, speed 4, I hooked up the gauge to the low pressure service port and began recharging. My wife (in the car) noticed an immidiate difference... yay! As the gauge hit the optimum range for charge, the compressor shut off, and the pressure wnet through the roof to over 70 psi. I called a local buddy of mine and he said to ignore the reading if the compressor is not running. When the compressor kicked back on, the pressure stayed high, so I bled off some of the pressure until I was back in the normal range. Now, when the compressor kicks off, the pressure still goes way up, but when it kicks back on again, it is normal...
Should I be concerned? Or, should I follow my friend's advise and ignore the reading when the compressor cycles off?
Cheers!
#4
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#5
Super Moderator
Not having "touched base" with car air cons..lately..
Unless things have changed, (I doubt it), you have to first make sure all your fittings/joints are home or secure...
Then you must Vacuate (suck out) all the bad air with an electric vacuum pump.
Then Add refrigerant, check for leaks (special tool) and top off.
That is normally it.
I am personally not a fan of Adding Refrigerant ONLY Via "running" the Cars Compressor.
Frankly, for the cost I don't know why you don't take your car to an air con specialist.
Do it once, do it right..
Unless things have changed, (I doubt it), you have to first make sure all your fittings/joints are home or secure...
Then you must Vacuate (suck out) all the bad air with an electric vacuum pump.
Then Add refrigerant, check for leaks (special tool) and top off.
That is normally it.
I am personally not a fan of Adding Refrigerant ONLY Via "running" the Cars Compressor.
Frankly, for the cost I don't know why you don't take your car to an air con specialist.
Do it once, do it right..
#6
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
R134a wont "disappeared" for no reason. So he might have a leak somewhere. it could be the condenser, it could be the o-rings, etc.
Last edited by nycgps; 05-23-2010 at 10:07 PM.
#8
Super Moderator
^^^ Agree..
A dye based air conditioning leakdown test uses a colored dye to find freon leaks in your air conditioning system. Using this test, a colored dye is injected into the a/c system which will be visible under UV (ultra-violet) light at the point of a leak anywhere in the system. The test is performed under full pressure with the air conditioning system closed (sealed as if you were driving under normal conditions).
Cruder methods are the use of Soapy Water sprayed on joints etc for Bubbles (leaks) at Seals or Joints..
A dye based air conditioning leakdown test uses a colored dye to find freon leaks in your air conditioning system. Using this test, a colored dye is injected into the a/c system which will be visible under UV (ultra-violet) light at the point of a leak anywhere in the system. The test is performed under full pressure with the air conditioning system closed (sealed as if you were driving under normal conditions).
Cruder methods are the use of Soapy Water sprayed on joints etc for Bubbles (leaks) at Seals or Joints..
#9
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
^^^ Agree..
A dye based air conditioning leakdown test uses a colored dye to find freon leaks in your air conditioning system. Using this test, a colored dye is injected into the a/c system which will be visible under UV (ultra-violet) light at the point of a leak anywhere in the system. The test is performed under full pressure with the air conditioning system closed (sealed as if you were driving under normal conditions).
A dye based air conditioning leakdown test uses a colored dye to find freon leaks in your air conditioning system. Using this test, a colored dye is injected into the a/c system which will be visible under UV (ultra-violet) light at the point of a leak anywhere in the system. The test is performed under full pressure with the air conditioning system closed (sealed as if you were driving under normal conditions).
I fixed my own FC's A/C this way,
It has a leak, I used 2 bottles of R134a with Green Dye, but after 2 bottles, I checked almost everywhere and still couldn't see it, then after I left it there for about a day or 2, The leak showed up, its at the bottom of the Condenser corner, you can't even see it with flash light(or the UV light that comes with the package), u have to take 1/2 the stuff apart to see the leak, those dye dries up too fast before it had a chance to drip to the floor.
Now my FC has colder A/C than my 8, that is just sad.
(Off topice : I use R134a just to find leaks, pure R134a sucks, Good for leak checks, thats about it. Im looking for ways to get rid of R134a and PAG oil and use other stuff + Ester oil in my 8)
Cruder methods are the use of Soapy Water sprayed on joints etc for Bubbles (leaks) at Seals or Joints..
Last edited by nycgps; 05-23-2010 at 11:12 PM.
#10
Registered
the compressor will ALWAYS work (unless the clutch /electrical parts are completely dead) when you charge, even if it has a huge leak somewhere else in the system, it will work, at least for a while.
R134a wont "disappeared" for no reason. So he might have a leak somewhere. it could be the condenser, it could be the o-rings, etc.
R134a wont "disappeared" for no reason. So he might have a leak somewhere. it could be the condenser, it could be the o-rings, etc.
The compressor won't run if the charge is too low - there's usually a low pressure switch to protect the compressor from running dry.
If it leaks out faster than a can every couple of years, then professional attention is usually needed. Although my experience with leaky home AC systems is that techs prefer to come out every year and recharge rather than try to find the leak.
Ken
#11
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i have fixed a/c systems in alot of cars. everything from replacing parts to just adding some refrigerant.
my question is does anyone know what the low side high side pressure readings are supposed to be on the rx8?
my rx8's a/c cycles on and off too frequently which is leading me to believe it is just low on charge.
my question is does anyone know what the low side high side pressure readings are supposed to be on the rx8?
my rx8's a/c cycles on and off too frequently which is leading me to believe it is just low on charge.
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Check the low side and high side valves, the things with the grey caps marked H and L on it, my L cap actually unscrewed the valve stem inside which caused very slowly leak of the system.
#13
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