water/methanol injection
01-02-2009, 12:56 AM
#26
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I can second the recommendation for Devils Own Alky kits. The guy that owns the company was a very active member in my local Grand Prix club a few years back and he developed the kit as an affordable alternative to running an IC on his Grand Prix. I ran one of his earlier kits in my Grand Prix and it worked very well. It allowed me to run a few lbs more boost and advance the timing w/o knock. It was well worth the money for the kit. I'm not sure how well it works on a rotary engine, but I'd assume it's the same as other motors. Check into some Grand National forums, you'll find a lot of great alky success stories
01-09-2009, 01:04 AM
#27
anymore specifics about the matter? any problems encountered.. planning to buy an AEM methanol injection kit would like to read more about how things went with people that did it already
01-18-2009, 02:41 AM
#28
BDC Motorsports
01-18-2009, 02:45 AM
#29
01-19-2009, 07:50 AM
#33
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Okay having some issues here w/ water/meth injection. Went through 6qts in less than 20 miles using a 175ml/min nozzle set @ 5 psi. I need to mention that I only hit that mark once (Needless to say damn near drowned my engine in methanol and lots of smoke) So something is definately wrong somewhere. I'm using the devils own adj swith and relay w/snows pump.
It looks like that @ idle and light load it is still injecting. Funny thing is I don't hear the pump running @ all.
Do you think it is the vacuum that is sucking the meth out?
It looks like that @ idle and light load it is still injecting. Funny thing is I don't hear the pump running @ all.
Do you think it is the vacuum that is sucking the meth out?
01-19-2009, 10:31 AM
#39
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This is the check valve I was referring to
01-19-2009, 11:47 AM
#41
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Brian (BDC) knows more about auxiliary injection that anyone else I know and has been doing some neat testing lately. He's got a thread over at the 7 forum right now detailing it.
01-20-2009, 01:04 AM
#44
BDC Motorsports
I had three people tell me that that cheap dryer ducting can be sucked into the turbo. I removed it later that day and did the 4" gas vent ducting w/ the movable joints, wrapped it in insulating tape, then added some DEI "Cool Tape" to it.
Btw, while we're on the subject of AI, I had a pretty interesting night tonight. You guys ought to check out the thread I linked at the end of Pg 7 and beginning of Pg 8. May be handy for the turbo guys here reading.
B
Btw, while we're on the subject of AI, I had a pretty interesting night tonight. You guys ought to check out the thread I linked at the end of Pg 7 and beginning of Pg 8. May be handy for the turbo guys here reading.
B
01-20-2009, 01:09 AM
#45
When you are experimenting, it just doesn't pay to spend the better part of a day welding aluminum bends into a duct, just to end up throwing it in the bin two days later.
The dryer duct is way too flimsy for that kind of duty, though.
HVAC stuff is much better.
Just don't do PVC. lol
01-20-2009, 10:22 AM
#47
yes solenoid--is required---when the pump is signaled the solenoid opens. duh
we are placing nozzles past the tb. with the s.c set up one nozzle is pre blower and one post blower.
track day --20 min session--- charge temp 105F measured at the upper/lower intake junction. engine coolant temp approx 190F.
OD
we are placing nozzles past the tb. with the s.c set up one nozzle is pre blower and one post blower.
track day --20 min session--- charge temp 105F measured at the upper/lower intake junction. engine coolant temp approx 190F.
OD
01-20-2009, 11:55 AM
#49
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
A check valve with the crack pressure over 15psi will work. Check valves are cheaper than a solenoid, and require no wiring to hook up, and will last longer.
I was leary of the underhood temps with a solenoid