Any idea why?

I dont quite understand, because pressure does not change density of oil(and by that weight of it in the holes). And, if I'm not mistaken, pressure works at the whole inner surface of rotor, and outside of e- shaft.

 

I could not find anything about why the oil pressure was increased on the S2. After reading the S2 service highlights PDF I am wondering if was only increased due to the new oil metering setup and the oil pressure control system that was adopted on the S2 engine.

One thing I did not know was that the Relief valve opening pressure went up from 71psi to 156.6psi.

 

I'm still waiting on parts to be made for this but I should have them soon. This is what I found this weekend when i pulled everything. The piping was all full of oil and there was oil coming out of the downpipe.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12578480153/

 

I got the flow regulators today, just waiting on the adjustable check valves.

 

The orifice on this 1GPM flow controller is really large in comparison to the restrictors others are using. The adjustable check valve will let me control pressure and bypass excess to the sump. So it is very likely IMO, that most using the restrictors are starving their turbos of adequate flow.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12748806835/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12756789984/

 

Has anyone tried getting some high heat clear hose for an oil drain?
to observe what the oil drain is doing?

my suspicion is oil goes into turbo gets a bit frothy, then goes done the oil drain and sits on top a pool of oil (the oil level is well above the pan) then stays, much like over filling a beer.

 

The drain is definitely and issue I think, it is far from ideal. As for clear hose, there is no clear hose that will survive that close, even my high temp ATP silicon hose with DEI wrap on it toasty, I will be making a new one and using fire sleeve this time around.

 

Do you have a picture of the fire sleeve? I'm running a fiberglass mat looking cover around my oil drain

 

Sure do, I got it on Amazon.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12762971783/

 

I was under the car today myself Re-tapping threads, and installing my oil pan, and I found a spot on the front cover that I thought could become a turbo drain. it could be fairly easy if the motor was out of the car, or during a rebuild, but not while in the car. I think you have a pump maybe you could pump it in that way too. something someone could explore on later

 

Ah..I had that on my previous drain setup it worked pretty good

 

You need a spot for the crankcase vent tube as well !

 

the oil filler nipple isn't good enough?, or maybe a Y onto the dip stick shaft...

 

No it isn't . Not for big hp anyway .

 

what are you doing then? beings you are the "big hp"

 

I've been running oil at half way on the dipstick.....................

 

sorry to jump in, but i heard that small turbo always have problem with the return line because the small turbo always have small outlet, and with the pressure that our car has, the oil will have a hard time to go back to the oil pan. i used to have greddy turbo before upgrading it to top bigger mount, and my mechanic said that it would have a problem.
especially when the position of the sto greddy turbo is so close to the pan that it doens't have anough gravity to speed up the return to the oil pan. it's just my 2cents.
i think, since it's a journal turbo, the most important is the the return line. i hope you make bigger hose and better angle..
if you put too much restrictor, it might starve the turbo, like what i had in my previous T67..it seized up..
good luck..sorry to write too long..just like to throw my opinion...thanks for the pic that you sent me about the oil cooler lines

 

Thanks Halim.


Faz,

The front cover is too high to return there. My drain line is downward and smooth as it can get, there is really not much that can be done to make that better, I just don't think it has enough down slope and it returns below the oil level so under G's the oil has to get forced back up into the turbo.

Ask for the crankcase, yes that is an issue and things were better with my larger vented catch can but it was too little too late. I have a -8 AN line and I will have my aluminum Mazdaspeed capped for a proper -8AN fitting instead of stepping down to the little plastic tube on the filler neck.

 

hey,
have you ever thought about the PTFE line? it's a stainless steel line, but instead of having rubber as inner line, it has a hard plastic, it's hard to explain it, you should see the pics. i think with PTFE material, the oil will flow better down to you oil pan than rubber. i use this PTFE line for my water line..i think if you can -10An for return, it would be nice..or you can add a pump on the return line if it's possible..
steven

 

I am planning to use a SS line this time but I need to find out what the temp ratings are since it sits so close to the manifold.

 

I thought you had a turbo drain oil pump, I must be getting builds confused now.

 

That was version 1.0, I'm on version 3.0 now.

 

Hope you had planned to disconnect the oil drain and run it into a bucket to check the actual flow before you call it good ........................

 

That sounds like a half assed way to do it, I'd rather not risk running my engine low on oil. I'll use math once we get the pressure worked out.

 

If you can't do that simple test without running your engine out of oil ...... you have problems

I would put more faith in reality than what the calculator comes up with .... but that's just me .