WingleBeast

So this may be a little hard to explaine without pictures...

I have my greddy turbo kit and I am trying to upgrade all the lines to Stainless steel AN lines. For the oil drain I bought the only adapter i could find, which was a plate that has a 1/2NPT thread in it. Unfortunetly the plate is pretty thick and Im afraid that with a -10AN adapter screwed in there, and a -10AN hose (90 degree fitting) that it will be too close to the turbo-manifold flange (may not even fit with the bolt in there)

So i figure i have a few options.

1) reclock the turbo so the middle oil part is a little off center. I know that it should be pointing straight up and down, but 10 or 15 degrees shouldnt hurt should it?

or

2) grind down the 1/2NPT adapter plate and the 1/2NPT fitting. Shouldnt be a problem since im going to threadlock it anyway.

or

3) just grind town the plate, and open up the oil drain hole in the turbo so the 1/2NPT fitting can actually partially fit down inside the turbo.

Any ideas on what is the best? any other plans? Ill try and make some pretty pictures tonight for a better idea of what im tlaking about.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

need pics .

I just used some high heat hose and put a stainless reinforcement (kind of like a spring) over top of it .....

Derex'8

iTrader: (4)

What size AN is the drain hole on the Greddy turbo?

WingleBeast

thats what im trying to avoid brettus, i want nice hose and fittings.

and there are none darex, its a flange, thats why i need the adaptor thats causeing the problems

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

mine looks real nice - how nice is nice ?

WingleBeast

well mainly I want screw fittings on the end. but I do belive that yours looks pretty too.

WingleBeast

alright, here are my nice homade drawings.

first the parts...

you can see on the turbo that the turbo flange overhangs the oil drain hole.


here is the oil drain flange, so i can screw a nice hose in there istead of useing greddys rubber hose.


so this is the overall setup, with the turbo at the bottom, my flange adapter screws onto the turbo, the male-to-male adapter for the hose, and the hose end fitting. (please excuse the worst thread representation ever drawn known to man)

Option 1:

(Oil inlet and oil outlet are the red lines)
The first option described above is to just rotate the center section of the turbocharger so the manifold flange dosent interfear with the oil drain clearence. the only problem with this is im afraid it wont get oil equally over the bearings or that oil will puddle on one side of the turbo housing, not sure if this is an issue. if it is not than this is the best option since there is no actual metalwork. If however the oil inlet must be at the top and oil drian must be on the absoulte bottom, then we move on to other options....

Option 2:



option 2 is to screw the male-to-male thread fitting into the oil drain flange adapter useing red (green?) or whatever color threadlock permanently bonds them together and grind off the red boxed areas, making this flange/thread assembly shorter to give more clearance. the issue with this, is with over 50% of the threads ground off, will the 3/16 of an inch threads with threadloc on them hold? or will the grinding have comprimised them?

Option 3:



option 3 is to still grind down the oil drain adapter flange, but not the thread adapter. In addition, i would have to drill the hole in the turbo houseing larger (red box area) to accept the overhang from the thread adapter. The issue with this is will the overhang in the turbo houseing prevent enough oil from draining from the turbo. (remember this whole setup will be upside down!)

hope that helps, im really looking for some good answers... thanks!

rotarenvy

option 2 gets my vote however I would weld the threaded adapter to the adapter plate then have it turned or milled flat.

option 3 looks like it would potentially leave metal in the oil passage.

WingleBeast

yeah i thought of that too. i wuold have to dissamble the housing to clean it = not fun.

I'm really hopeing for MM or mysql or some overboosts guy to come and say "of course option one is fine" but its looking like that wont happen. I'm still worried that even if I do option 2 there might be clearance issues with the stud... I just wont find out till after i buy the 20 dollar fitting. of course i could always machine down the studs too..

arghx7

Option 1 would work as long as you don't clock it too far, I have personally done it on Garrett turbos. remember that oil is under tremendous pressure as it enters the CHRA, it's not just trickling in there.

WingleBeast

even with a restrictor?