Originally Posted by skc

Very tight fit looks good though.

Might be difficult to sell as a kit as the engine bays can have a 10mm variance from car to car. You may have to fabricate each car individually.

Originally Posted by Turblown

For those that don't know, a few pictures might help

1st and foremost is the turbo manifold; Log style vs our tubular merge collected unit. A lot faster spool up, and more power everywhere, especially in the high rpms, even at low boost pressures. Right angle bends like pictured are terrible for flow, we also don't cheat the entrance to the turbo which basically mimics a on-center turbine housing( We've 600rpm difference in spool time from just swapping tan-gentile to an on-center turbine housing).

2nd is the Hardlines, pretty staight forward. You don't have to worry about anything cooking here. Other kits have lines physically touching 1700+ F degree parts. We hardline both the radiator lines, heater core lines, and turbo cooling lines. Even the oil drain return is very close to the turbo manifold. If any of these lines break you're engine will be toast before you realize what is happening.

3rd we use Garrett Intercooler Cores, and Tial Wastegates/Bovs, no knock offs or ebay parts. Garrett cores produce lower air temps, proven fact. The colder the air, the higher your air density. Air density is the key to power. We can also tuck the intercooler farther back if you live in CA or just want to be stealth. We also don't use any 90 degree couplers, all connections are straight connections which if setup correctly won't blow off.

4th we use a flex connection at the end of our downpipe, and no two piece vband connections which always leak. We can also install as many o2 or egt bungs as you like in both the downpipe and turbo manifold.

5th we hand fit everything on a chassis in house, this ensure the best possible fitment. Nothing is made from Jigs alone.

6th Our turbo system works great with any Mass Air flow sensor based ECU like the CObb AP, and its setup draw through just like OEM. We have since changed our intake track and it works flawlessly. We also use a bosch style recirc blow off valve that is necessary for a MAF setup. We also install an o2 bung in the turbo manifold for the necessary quicker response when using the Cobb's o2 feedback system.

7th All the turbos we sell are water cooled, we don't use oil coolant only turbos on rotaries. Garrett says the turbo will last 30% longer with just adding water cooling. From years of experience rebuilding turbos, I completely agree. We can also put on whatever turbo you want, do you want just a quick spooling 300rwhp? Choose a GT3076R, or do you want 550+rwhp? We can do up to a Gt42R frame.

8th We are always pushing the envelope, making each system better than the previous. We are also now able to turbo the S2 cars properly( no check engine lights, everything works like OEM(dash, etc etc)). And once again we hold the known* record for highest RWHP Rx-8s( using the OEM Rotary engine).

Will update with more photos..

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

So how did the low mount kit on the S2 work out? Inquiring minds want to know.

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Same company? I'm not sure, both are based in MN though.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

How did you get that info from? The Turbo Source website has no address listing on any page, which is always an immediate red flag in my book. I could only find a business listing in SC for them, but that could be old, they relocated, were bought out, or maybe a different company with the same name.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

especially those crazies upset about spending good money and getting parts that look like dookie shat out from the metal dog ...

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

especially those crazies upset about spending good money and getting parts that look like dookie shat out from the metal dog ...