shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

In all honesty, I think its cool that you are taking on this project by yourself.

I just wish you went and purchased all the proper tools needed.

jayrerickson

done crying

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Looking forward to seeing it running....

Good luck trying to find a more extensive knowledge base with people who have done actual work to their cars.

When you come back try and take the hits, we are all here for good fun. Hopefully in a few years you will laugh about that one time you put your soft aluminum housings on the hard cement floor...

jayrerickson

I'm not that stupid. Its hard to see but the whole thing is sitting on 5 layers of bubble wrap (the big kind). Floating on a cushion of air.

You should ask before assuming.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Apologies...

Good luck, just remember the link I posted at the beginning of this thread.

jayrerickson

It is in my favorites. I really do appreciate that link.

The port templates will help tremendously.

Thank you again for that...

jayrerickson

No damage or flaws for what I saw. More detailed pics tomorrow.

jayrerickson

I was wrong!!!

Crap, new E-shaft and bearings are needed. Nice chip in the E-shaft and got lucky the bearing didn't wear all the way down were I need a new rotor...

jayrerickson

The shaft I ordered...

https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...H3-11-D00.html

The bearings I'm going to order... Will be taking it to a shop to press them in...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/93-11...01-10-E04.html

The gasket and seal kit I will be getting.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...t-A-ARE66.html

Still debating on what apex's I should get. Here is a link of the different kinds...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/searc...keep_https=yes

Right now I'm thinking these... I'm assuming they are 2mm. will research more or just call them...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...it-ARE131.html

Next is to figure out if the rx7 housings are the same. Would like to use the pineapple port templates but doesn't say for the rx8. If not I will just take 1mm or 2mm off around the ports. Its not that much but rather be safe then sorry.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

You are missing the entire rebuild kit dude...

Also you should do stationary bearings and rotor bearings not just the stationary bearings.

You need the master rebuild kit with all OEM options and cut off seal springs. Assuming your cut off seals are in good shape.

https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html

jayrerickson

I was thinking of reusing some seals. Check and see if they are within spec. Everything looks great other then the bearing and shaft.

Yes the stationary will get done too.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

I was thinking this rebuild might amount to something

jayrerickson

Your right...

I will save a little longer and get the master.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Yea man, you will need to cut the side seals as well... It takes skill and finesse to get them cut right. Also you will need a feeler gauge at .002 or .003, depending on personal preference.

You need to spec out the apex seals as well to check for play, I forget what thats supposed to be at though I left my manual at my friends house.

You can buy pre-cut side seals from Mazdatrix, which makes things a bit easier.

You will also need to clean and remove the two inner oil control rings and the outer cut off seal as I mentioned above. These need to be cleaned thoroughly and checked for wear.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Don't let ASH hear you say that!

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

LOL no one in their right mind would suggest doing it otherwise.

jayrerickson

Thats why I was thinking to check and reuse the side seals. But I might as well do it right with new parts. Will just take a little longer to get it done.

With someone that has done it before, around 2 hours per rotor. With me being my first time, I figure 3 hours per rotor. .002 or .003 is the mazda specs. The builder I have been following says that it is better to just make it a perfect fit. Just enough were it will float in the grove with out catching/snagging on anything. Of course keeping the angle cut perfect too. I dont think it will be hard to do, just takes time.

I was going to check the apex with a feeler then thought why bother. Ill wait for the new apex to come in and then check. Now I'm thinking that's stupid. What if it is out of spec with the new ones. Wasted time when I could get it machined for 3mm if it is out of spec. I dont think it is as the old ones look very nice but will check and post pics in 30min. I would like to know if I need 3mm or not.

I was wondering if it would be ok to take out the oil control ring and reuse. But since I will be getting the master kit, doesn't matter, it comes with new ones. Maybe your talking about the ring holder? Ill take a pic of those to.

Be right back with an update.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

The ring holder is the rotor, the control rings themselves are metal rings that have an o-ring inside of them. The master kit does not come with new control rings it only comes with the new o rings for those rings and the springs that pop in below the rings.

jayrerickson

Yeah, I know what you are saying. I checked one side and waiting for pics to load. I was talking about the holder for the o ring (control ring). Before I was wondering if you could reuse the o ring but the kit comes with new ones. That's what I was trying to say lol.

For the apex, .003 did fit but barley, just started and wouldn't go father down. Tried with and with out the spring, had the same result.

Pics will be up in a min.

jayrerickson

It will not go any farther...


They looked great but only checked this set.


So what are your thoughts for the apex clearance?

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

You gotta test it with new seals, the old ones are worn. Also you will need to clean all the carbon out to get a good read.

If it was .003 or close to it I would reuse them 3mm seals aren't as reliable and should only be used if you really need it.

jayrerickson

That is what my first thought was, check with new seals. Then thought I should check with the old one just to see. If it was way out of spec, I would need 3mm. At this point I think new 2mm will do just fine.

Plus in the master kit it comes with hardened 2mm seals.

This is the kit I'm getting.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html

Actually I'm getting this kit. Comes with both sets of bearings. Saves me about $200.
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11-...68-Manual.html

These are the seals it comes with.
04-11 Rx8 Atkins Apex Seal Set (ARE111)

The seals are better then stock and dont have to buy another set as I was going to buy something better then stock anyway. I was going to try the Cryogenically treated seals but why waste the money when the kit comes with heat treated ones. Might as well give them a try.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

They aren't better than stock, that's just what Atkins says. Their seals fail out of the box all of the time. Stick with OEM, it costs more but its worth it.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Also get the OEM corner seals, those solid corner seals are meant for high revving high hp cars that get rebuilt often.

They are not meant for daily driving.

Mazda spent millions in R&D over the past 30 years, some two bit shop didn't figure out the rotary holy grail overnight.