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So installing the pump controller: instructions say it needs switched 12v that stays hot during engine cranking, not sure why. Anyway, most stuff loses power during cranking. First thought was off fuel pump circuit but wouldn't want the controller to blow that and go lean. Next idea is ignition. Any other thoughts?
The problem with the room fuse is that is disconnects during engine cranking. For some reason the instructions explicitly state that it needs to stay hot during engine cranking. I am going to reach out to Devil's Own and see how critical that actually is...
Section 6: DevilsOwn Progressive Controller
The DevilsOwn Progressive Controller injects water/methanol according to the intake manifold pressure (boost).
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE INSTALLING CONTROLLER! DO NOT INSTALL IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT!
Electrical connection
• Black wire goes to chassis (body) ground (Be sure to get a metal on metal connection!)
• Pink wire goes to Ignition on source. Verify the source does not cut off when cranking the engine.
• Blue wire goes to the pump’s Negative (black) wire.
• Yellow wire is for hooking any ground signal input, such as a fluid level sensor.
• Orange wire goes to constant 12v source. Verify source does not cut off when cranking the engine.
I just called their tech support and they say that a source that cuts off during engine cranking can potentially fry the controller. I will check the room fuse but I thought I recalled that it shuts off during cranking. I know my gauges shut off, I tested that yesterday...
Slash, another source for a trigger I use is the circuit for the seat heaters but I'm not sure if it cuts during cranking as I don't have anything that is that sensitive. Power for the relay comes thru a fuse box wired to the battery.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jul 20, 2016 at 04:20 PM.
I ran mine straight off the battery along with an in line fuse .
Yeah, that's what I'm doing for the constant + but it also needs a switched + source, neither of which are cut during engine cranking. There are a lot of switched sources but almost all seem to cut during engine cranking. I've not seen a requirement like this. I need to poke around later tonight when I'm off work but I'm thinking ignition power circuit might be a good candidate.
Last edited by slash128; Jul 20, 2016 at 04:18 PM.
Slash, another source for a trigger I use is the circuit for the seat heaters but I'm not sure if it cuts during cranking as I don't have anything that is that sensitive. Power for the relay comes thru a fuse box wired to the battery.
It's under the center console where the switches go, even if you don't have heated seats (not sure if you have a GT or not).
9K your work is always so clean I wish I had that much patience lol...
I do have a GT with seat heaters. I checked them but they turn off when you crank the engine. Turn on one and watch the light when you start the car, on mine it goes out and comes back after you let go of the ignition switch.
I did find a 15A fuse labeled Eng which stays on during cranking, so all good now...
Are those old apex seal tips for the guides? That's pretty slick! Is it acceptable to grind them perpendicular to the seal length? For some reason I had it in my head that they should be ground parallel, but maybe it's just cuz that's how I've always seen it done...
Last edited by slash128; Jul 21, 2016 at 10:50 AM.
Are those old apex seal tips for the guides? That's pretty slick! Is it acceptable to grind them perpendicular to the seal length? For some reason I had it in my head that they should be ground parallel, but maybe it's just cuz that's how I've always seen it done...
Yes those are old apex seals. My Buddy Austin made this jig, he has rebuilt a few Renesis engines locally with good results.
I wish I had that much patience lol...
