slash128's Top Mount Build
01-22-2015, 01:05 AM
#901
n3rd
Thread Starter
More pics... I will try to find some of the original cutoff job and the transmission mount. It is just a piece of angle iron with the holes that match up to the original two exhaust manifold brace mounts on the transmission.
Oh, and ya, that heat shield between the wastgate and the ECU is the original PTP battery tray that I hacked up
Oh, and ya, that heat shield between the wastgate and the ECU is the original PTP battery tray that I hacked up
01-22-2015, 01:10 AM
#902
n3rd
Thread Starter
Oh, and if the flex pipe on the new wastegate position looks familiar, well I was creative and reused the original wastegate flex section that was cut off almost 2 years ago 
01-22-2015, 08:06 PM
#904
n3rd
Thread Starter
01-22-2015, 08:11 PM
#905
n3rd
Thread Starter
Installed Autolite AR3932 plugs tonight. If they work out it will be a cheap alternative I can pick up locally when needed.
While I was under there I got a pic of the downpipes where the old WG section is welded closed. You can also see the black bracket that secures the downpipe to the transmission. This is what the 4th hole in the flange is for 9K.
While I was under there I got a pic of the downpipes where the old WG section is welded closed. You can also see the black bracket that secures the downpipe to the transmission. This is what the 4th hole in the flange is for 9K.
01-23-2015, 10:22 AM
#908
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well I just finished my latest upgrades to my current Greddy setup so not anytime soon but I do plan on improving this kit and making the changes and then installing it as some point. My plan is to use all top notch hardware from the turbo down to my oil pressure regulator setup. And a rebuild will be in order before I can try to hit 350WHP reliably.
I don't have that bracket for the trans so I will need to fabricate that and a few other small things. Most of my current setup will work as is, except my separate cooling circuit and pump for the turbo, but I can redo that to work I just need to move some things. The main thing aside from redoing the wastegate setup will be heat management, I will go to town with that.
I don't have that bracket for the trans so I will need to fabricate that and a few other small things. Most of my current setup will work as is, except my separate cooling circuit and pump for the turbo, but I can redo that to work I just need to move some things. The main thing aside from redoing the wastegate setup will be heat management, I will go to town with that.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-23-2015 at 10:26 AM.
01-26-2015, 10:44 AM
#909
n3rd
Thread Starter
What ideas do you have for heat management? I have gotten my coolant temps pretty well under control for daily driving, but always looking for ways to improve. I would like it if I can get my engine bay temps cooler, but I think the answer there is going to be a vented hood.
01-26-2015, 10:57 AM
#910
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well for cooling, I have FAL dual fans, a secondary radiator, secondary BEHR oil cooler from an S class merc, running Evans NPG, and the turbo is on it's own cooling circuit with a bosch pump and reservoir.
But I mean underhood heat management, have seen locally what other top mount kits do to things in the engine compartment and it's not pretty,
I would get the manifold coated here locally (Cradin Industries) and I was thinking of having a secondary heat shield fabrocated on the manifold and DP itself to shield other items in the engine bay from the manifold and DP. And I would use iconel on the OMP shield and in other areas. And a turbo blanket is a must.
Something similar to what they did here.
http://radiumauto.com/media/blog-pag...th-the-Heat-17
But I mean underhood heat management, have seen locally what other top mount kits do to things in the engine compartment and it's not pretty,
I would get the manifold coated here locally (Cradin Industries) and I was thinking of having a secondary heat shield fabrocated on the manifold and DP itself to shield other items in the engine bay from the manifold and DP. And I would use iconel on the OMP shield and in other areas. And a turbo blanket is a must.
Something similar to what they did here.
http://radiumauto.com/media/blog-pag...th-the-Heat-17
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-26-2015 at 11:00 AM.
01-26-2015, 11:08 AM
#911
n3rd
Thread Starter
Cool. I've got inferno shields on the OMP and between the downpipe and the LIM/APV. I replaced a section of rad hose that runs over the downpipe with a SS section. OMP lines were replaced with SS line. The manifold and downpipes are all wrapped (not coated) and the hoses and electrical all have heat shielding. Turbo blanket as well, though it needs replacing at this point. Aside from the blanket needing replacing everything has held up well. Granted, I don't have your TX heat up here in WA. When I open the hood in the summer it is a blast of hot air. Looking for ways to extract that hot air quicker.
02-06-2015, 01:04 PM
#914
n3rd
Thread Starter
Down low was normal. Wheels broke loose mid-way through resulting in the spike
I do 2nd gear for preliminary tuning because there are no safe roads near my house for 3'rd.
I just thought it was fun spinning loose those wide tires in higher RPMs.
I do 2nd gear for preliminary tuning because there are no safe roads near my house for 3'rd.
I just thought it was fun spinning loose those wide tires in higher RPMs.
Last edited by slash128; 02-06-2015 at 01:20 PM.
02-06-2015, 04:58 PM
#918
n3rd
Thread Starter
Also, printed sheet is attached as PDF.
02-06-2015, 05:09 PM
#920
n3rd
Thread Starter
Nah, you just forgot that you replied 6 posts later
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...2/#post4596997
EDIT: haha we edited posts at the same time
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...2/#post4596997
EDIT: haha we edited posts at the same time
02-06-2015, 05:11 PM
#921
n3rd
Thread Starter
02-16-2015, 01:17 PM
#922
n3rd
Thread Starter
I've gotten asked how I have be doing my tuning so I figured I would share in the open. This is my current process at a high level. I don't claim to be knowledgeable here. Use at your own risk, every setup has enough differences to break a motor. It may not be right, I may be missing pieces or approaching it wrong, but it has worked for me and gotten the results I want
1) Started with the all the base stuff and stretched out the load to 250% on all the maps. Good ignition references tables can be found on the forum with a search. Max out Calc Load, IAT and Baro comp to 250%. I left SSV and VDI as stock operation.
2) Use stock MAF scale trended out to 5V.
3) Set gear fuel tables where I want to target.
3) Set injector scaling number based on flow at 3.0 bar. So stock yellows are reported 420cc at 3 bar so I start with 420 in the injector scaling. Uncapped yellows seem to get commonly reported around 820 (as did my last set I had tested) so I used that as my starting number. I'm sure people will have their opinion here but this method worked out to give me a good starting number. It will be rich, but better than lean at this point!
4) Set the throttle fuel tables to have no enrichment. Didn't want this messing with my logs. Had to be careful with the throttle to avoid lean spikes.
5) Get the primaries dialed in using a combination of idle and OL cruise logs. Other injectors will be playing into this but after doing this a few times I was able to get the primaries pretty well dialed in to where I had minimal STFT and no LTFT at idle. Primary injector scale number came out to 443, 5% over the starting 420 number. No vac leaks is a must as I was chasing idle stuff all over before haha
6) Dial in the remaining injectors with OL cruise logs. I wanted the scaling to be accurate in vacuum. Otherwise I wind up with really big negative trims in CL cruise and really rich poor mpg in OL cruise. My P2/Aux scale number came out to 900, 10% higher than the starting 820 number. At this point I had pretty tight CL trims and OL AFR was not far off.
7) CAREFULLY used WOT logs to dial in VE to compensate for boost pressure counteracting fuel pressure over 100% load. Watched the AFR gauge and was ready to lift off the gas immediately if I saw it start to rise. No throttle enrichment yet, so had to ease in...
8) Once VE is roughly dialed for injector fuel pressure/boost pressure compensation I enriched the throttle fuel tables to smoothly transition into boost.
9) Started overlaying WOT logs in VD. I looked for dips in power and add or subtract VE. If the dip gets worse I adjust VE the other direction. If there is an improvement I keep adjusting that load/RPM range of the VE table in the same direction until I don't see anymore gains, or it starts getting too lean.
What I need to do now is go back and start with no spring in the WG, then add a small spring, then a bit bigger, etc., until I get VE dialed in across all load ranges up to my target boost. I think this is a critical step to because I was noticing if I just base VE on target boost in WOT there seem to be areas at part throttle that are off. I need to do some logs to verify...
1) Started with the all the base stuff and stretched out the load to 250% on all the maps. Good ignition references tables can be found on the forum with a search. Max out Calc Load, IAT and Baro comp to 250%. I left SSV and VDI as stock operation.
2) Use stock MAF scale trended out to 5V.
3) Set gear fuel tables where I want to target.
3) Set injector scaling number based on flow at 3.0 bar. So stock yellows are reported 420cc at 3 bar so I start with 420 in the injector scaling. Uncapped yellows seem to get commonly reported around 820 (as did my last set I had tested) so I used that as my starting number. I'm sure people will have their opinion here but this method worked out to give me a good starting number. It will be rich, but better than lean at this point!
4) Set the throttle fuel tables to have no enrichment. Didn't want this messing with my logs. Had to be careful with the throttle to avoid lean spikes.
5) Get the primaries dialed in using a combination of idle and OL cruise logs. Other injectors will be playing into this but after doing this a few times I was able to get the primaries pretty well dialed in to where I had minimal STFT and no LTFT at idle. Primary injector scale number came out to 443, 5% over the starting 420 number. No vac leaks is a must as I was chasing idle stuff all over before haha
6) Dial in the remaining injectors with OL cruise logs. I wanted the scaling to be accurate in vacuum. Otherwise I wind up with really big negative trims in CL cruise and really rich poor mpg in OL cruise. My P2/Aux scale number came out to 900, 10% higher than the starting 820 number. At this point I had pretty tight CL trims and OL AFR was not far off.
7) CAREFULLY used WOT logs to dial in VE to compensate for boost pressure counteracting fuel pressure over 100% load. Watched the AFR gauge and was ready to lift off the gas immediately if I saw it start to rise. No throttle enrichment yet, so had to ease in...
8) Once VE is roughly dialed for injector fuel pressure/boost pressure compensation I enriched the throttle fuel tables to smoothly transition into boost.
9) Started overlaying WOT logs in VD. I looked for dips in power and add or subtract VE. If the dip gets worse I adjust VE the other direction. If there is an improvement I keep adjusting that load/RPM range of the VE table in the same direction until I don't see anymore gains, or it starts getting too lean.
What I need to do now is go back and start with no spring in the WG, then add a small spring, then a bit bigger, etc., until I get VE dialed in across all load ranges up to my target boost. I think this is a critical step to because I was noticing if I just base VE on target boost in WOT there seem to be areas at part throttle that are off. I need to do some logs to verify...
