skc supercharger build
11-20-2011, 10:06 PM
#176
rev it up
Thread Starter
2 things.
1-on track with an FI engine it is best to go out with the oil level a tad down from full. Same for the SC oil level.
2- you have to have a great catch can set up--it doesnt need vacuum. Use a big line (big as you can within reason
The little stock one is not big enough. For a back yard fix before going out you can also break the seal that the oil dipstick has--just pull it back a little--but it COULD blow some oil out --probably wouldnt --but it could.
You are obviously getting blowby in the engine--that in itself is not necessarily something to be concerned about. Just be sure to change oil after a track event!
its going to be a bitch cleaning the intercooler?
1-on track with an FI engine it is best to go out with the oil level a tad down from full. Same for the SC oil level.
2- you have to have a great catch can set up--it doesnt need vacuum. Use a big line (big as you can within reason
The little stock one is not big enough. For a back yard fix before going out you can also break the seal that the oil dipstick has--just pull it back a little--but it COULD blow some oil out --probably wouldnt --but it could.You are obviously getting blowby in the engine--that in itself is not necessarily something to be concerned about. Just be sure to change oil after a track event!
its going to be a bitch cleaning the intercooler
?I will try lowering the oil a bit next time as the G Reddy sump has extra volume anyway.
I also decided to seal up the oil filler cap to prevent oil leaking. This may have also created extra pressure within the system causing the vacuum seal to let go.
The concern I have at the moment is that there is a weakness in the seal so in the long term that will need a redesign.
11-20-2011, 10:45 PM
#177
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
3.5" custom intake setup
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6346211001/
All I used from the AEM was the MAF housing and screens. I got all my piping from here:
http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=APIP
I even cut everything with a chop saw and used Emory cloth to debur and smooth the cut pieces.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6346211001/
All I used from the AEM was the MAF housing and screens. I got all my piping from here:
http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=APIP
I even cut everything with a chop saw and used Emory cloth to debur and smooth the cut pieces.
11-21-2011, 09:41 AM
#179
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well I actually would like a larger filter but it just won't fit. This filter is for a 2.2L Ecotec turbocharged engine that is used in the HHR SS, Soltice GXP, and the Saturn Sky Redline so I hope it flow enough for my engine.
Eventually I will remount the inter cooler and use the intake funnel and a filter with a 6" flange.
Eventually I will remount the inter cooler and use the intake funnel and a filter with a 6" flange.
11-21-2011, 11:37 AM
#180
its a neat looking air filter set up. Great find on the filter. The picture is a little bright so I cant see if there are any pleats in it? Pretty sure there is. the flow rate may be OK--it just looks small.
Now you do know that the entire top portion of the front support beam can be cut off? That beam is internally sepatarated by a steel plate that goes down the middle of it. Just cut a little above halfway up and all the way across and it makes the beam 1/2 as wide as it now is.
That gives you a LOT more room.
Now you do know that the entire top portion of the front support beam can be cut off? That beam is internally sepatarated by a steel plate that goes down the middle of it. Just cut a little above halfway up and all the way across and it makes the beam 1/2 as wide as it now is.
That gives you a LOT more room.
11-21-2011, 11:39 AM
#181
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
its a neat looking air filter set up. Great find on the filter. The picture is a little bright so I cant see if there are any pleats in it? Pretty sure there is. the flow rate may be OK--it just looks small.
Now you do know that the entire top portion of the front support beam can be cut off? That beam is internally separated by a steel plate that goes down the middle of it. Just cut a little above halfway up and all the way across and it makes the beam 1/2 as wide as it now is.
That gives you a LOT more room.
Now you do know that the entire top portion of the front support beam can be cut off? That beam is internally separated by a steel plate that goes down the middle of it. Just cut a little above halfway up and all the way across and it makes the beam 1/2 as wide as it now is.
That gives you a LOT more room.
Yes it is pleated.
Oh now you tell me
12-22-2011, 02:34 AM
#183
rev it up
Thread Starter
We finally managed to diagnose the cause of the seal failure in the dog bone. It seems that under boost the pipe gets pushed back causing a leak. The solution is to machine a piece of metal that sits against the plenum to stop the dog bone piece from sliding back causing boost leak.
We hope to get this done sometime in January so I can finally get full boost. I think this issue has existed from the beginning as I now know what the engine sounds and feels like when there is a boost leak. I am sure I had similar sounds when I first took the car to the track.
With this issue resolved the car will feel more powerful.
We hope to get this done sometime in January so I can finally get full boost. I think this issue has existed from the beginning as I now know what the engine sounds and feels like when there is a boost leak. I am sure I had similar sounds when I first took the car to the track.
With this issue resolved the car will feel more powerful.
12-22-2011, 02:54 AM
#185
We finally managed to diagnose the cause of the seal failure in the dog bone. It seems that under boost the pipe gets pushed back causing a leak. The solution is to machine a piece of metal that sits against the plenum to stop the dog bone piece from sliding back causing boost leak.
We hope to get this done sometime in January so I can finally get full boost. I think this issue has existed from the beginning as I now know what the engine sounds and feels like when there is a boost leak. I am sure I had similar sounds when I first took the car to the track.
With this issue resolved the car will feel more powerful.
We hope to get this done sometime in January so I can finally get full boost. I think this issue has existed from the beginning as I now know what the engine sounds and feels like when there is a boost leak. I am sure I had similar sounds when I first took the car to the track.
With this issue resolved the car will feel more powerful.
12-22-2011, 03:10 AM
#186
rev it up
Thread Starter
12-22-2011, 03:16 AM
#187
rev it up
Thread Starter
I have to resolve these minor issues first. I also have to be a bit realistic about more power as my car has over 100 000 km and at some stage in the near future it will fail. It may be best to wait for a rebuild, with ported exhaust, ceramic seals, nitrate plates, balance, etc before I start looking for more power.
In the meantime I will keep running the car and doing track days until the inevitable happens.
In the meantime I will keep running the car and doing track days until the inevitable happens.
12-22-2011, 05:54 AM
#189
I have to resolve these minor issues first. I also have to be a bit realistic about more power as my car has over 100 000 km and at some stage in the near future it will fail. It may be best to wait for a rebuild, with ported exhaust, ceramic seals, nitrate plates, balance, etc before I start looking for more power.
In the meantime I will keep running the car and doing track days until the inevitable happens.
In the meantime I will keep running the car and doing track days until the inevitable happens.
Thats probably a good idea. If only we had a magic ball which told us our engine expiry. Rowan just rebuild jasons motor cost him 8 or 9k.
12-22-2011, 08:47 AM
#191
I have said it before, but I will say it again--that sure is a good looking kit.
Curious why you want to go with ceramic seals? They are easier on the housings, but they break also.
Read up on some things and it seems, and I am not an expert, that our apex seals have a weak fulcum point by being shorter than say the turbo FD's? By changing to a taller seal this strengtens that area. No long term results are in but those that have had this done--so far so good. Its lodgical to me. Of course bad detonation is going to blow it anyway. A little knock may not.
As many have said --get the best tune you can( watch the timing), neg decel timing is now being talked about as is rpm delta tables also. Run the best octane you can get and then get some gas that has more, either by additives or race gas--if you are tracking or staying is high boost in the higher gears. Add a rock solid ignition system, do race maintanence, some premix, and watch your temps.
Doing all that --why spend the money on ceramic seals. If anything we need ceramic side seals! Not for the wear, but to better handle the heat they see.
Curious why you want to go with ceramic seals? They are easier on the housings, but they break also.
Read up on some things and it seems, and I am not an expert, that our apex seals have a weak fulcum point by being shorter than say the turbo FD's? By changing to a taller seal this strengtens that area. No long term results are in but those that have had this done--so far so good. Its lodgical to me. Of course bad detonation is going to blow it anyway. A little knock may not.
As many have said --get the best tune you can( watch the timing), neg decel timing is now being talked about as is rpm delta tables also. Run the best octane you can get and then get some gas that has more, either by additives or race gas--if you are tracking or staying is high boost in the higher gears. Add a rock solid ignition system, do race maintanence, some premix, and watch your temps.
Doing all that --why spend the money on ceramic seals. If anything we need ceramic side seals! Not for the wear, but to better handle the heat they see.
12-22-2011, 04:12 PM
#192
rev it up
Thread Starter
Hopefully i will get a few more years worth of driving before the rebuild. so far it has served me well for over 8 years and 5 years of regular track days.
12-22-2011, 04:28 PM
#193
rev it up
Thread Starter
So the solution is to place a machined piece of metal on the plenum side to stop it from sliding back thus preventing the boost leak.
12-28-2011, 03:45 AM
#196
02-20-2012, 04:13 PM
#197
rev it up
Thread Starter
New part installed and boost leak is gone. However, engine sputters under high load at high rpm i.e rev to 1st to 9000rpm when I take second gear the car bogs and sputters.
i will try injector cleaners and hopefully it helps. I did change the spark plugs as they where very dirty, they had only done around 1000km before the last clean. I think the dirty spark plugs where due to the boost leak.
The next cause could be coils, so I have to go through a process of elimination
skc
i will try injector cleaners and hopefully it helps. I did change the spark plugs as they where very dirty, they had only done around 1000km before the last clean. I think the dirty spark plugs where due to the boost leak.
The next cause could be coils, so I have to go through a process of elimination
skc
02-20-2012, 09:34 PM
#199
rev it up
Thread Starter
I am not 100% sure. The UIM which is the intake plenum is a milled piece of aluminium which comes in two pieces. The bottom half nestles into the locating pin on the factory UIM and is bolted into the factory bolt locations. The dog bone then slides in and the top half of the plenum is bolted in.
I hope this answers your question.
I hope this answers your question.