skc supercharger build
02-18-2013, 06:42 PM
#426
rev it up
Thread Starter
It uses engine oil to lubricate. We had issues with the oil connectors on the kit. The solution was to weld it onto the case making it easy to screw in the oil lines.
I would have preferred an additional drain line as it is fed in under pressure and drains with gravity however, the mechanic felt that it should be ok. It may have helped who knows?
I am also thinking of playing with the spring in the bypass valve. Perhaps over time and heat it may have lost strength. I am finding that it goes into boost very easily and my erractic idle could be caused by the bypass valve.
I would have preferred an additional drain line as it is fed in under pressure and drains with gravity however, the mechanic felt that it should be ok. It may have helped who knows?
I am also thinking of playing with the spring in the bypass valve. Perhaps over time and heat it may have lost strength. I am finding that it goes into boost very easily and my erractic idle could be caused by the bypass valve.
02-18-2013, 08:40 PM
#428
rev it up
Thread Starter
There are two issues.
One is the oil leak from the back of the supercharger, it could be the case seal or the oil line. The second issue is the dodgy bypass valve. It needs regular cleaning and oiling as the valve can get stuck and prevent boost.
It may also be inducing unstable idle if the valve is not fully shut at idle. I will also try an air straightner to see if it helps.
I am happy with the kit and it performs very well especially beyond 2000 to 9000rpm. I am very fussy and I want the car to have a stock like feel at idle, it does behave well 90% of the time however at the odd occassion the revs will oscillate between 500rpm and 1000rpm.
One is the oil leak from the back of the supercharger, it could be the case seal or the oil line. The second issue is the dodgy bypass valve. It needs regular cleaning and oiling as the valve can get stuck and prevent boost.
It may also be inducing unstable idle if the valve is not fully shut at idle. I will also try an air straightner to see if it helps.
I am happy with the kit and it performs very well especially beyond 2000 to 9000rpm. I am very fussy and I want the car to have a stock like feel at idle, it does behave well 90% of the time however at the odd occassion the revs will oscillate between 500rpm and 1000rpm.
Last edited by skc; 02-18-2013 at 08:46 PM.
02-19-2013, 10:10 PM
#430
rev it up
Thread Starter
I am also suspecting exhaust leak as this has been a lingering issue in the past and during idle it could be sucking air and causing the o2 sensor to a adjust trims. We found that the high temps may have warped the mounting plates slightly causing a leak. The last time we used two gaskets to solve the problem.
I may have to get the mounting plate ground to provide a tight fit.
I may have to get the mounting plate ground to provide a tight fit.
02-20-2013, 09:43 AM
#431
go with something like this
https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...xhaust-002-jpg
I added a true 3 inch collector and a standard flange--so good gaskets can be obtained. The weird one on the oem header --just never works right.
https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...xhaust-002-jpg
I added a true 3 inch collector and a standard flange--so good gaskets can be obtained. The weird one on the oem header --just never works right.
02-20-2013, 04:04 PM
#432
rev it up
Thread Starter
That looks nice, did you notice a power increase. My extractor pipes are not as big. I do have a similar connecting plate on the extractor and the cat. I think the mounting plate on the cat is the problem.
02-21-2013, 01:25 AM
#434
rev it up
Thread Starter
Found oil leaking from the oil feed line into the back of the supercharger. It only occurs at high rpm and it seeps out from the weld joint.
The supercharger oil crank is not preasurised however at high rpm the oil splashes around a lot more than usual. There is very little room at the back of the case to improve on the weld as the gears are too close to the oil inlet. The solution for now is to apply sealant on the outside to hold the oil in. The aluminum billet rear case is also quite thin so very little room for improvement.
The permanent solution is to redo the billet case with all the feed lines built in at the correct spots. However, the cost in CNC is quite prohibitive.
The supercharger oil crank is not preasurised however at high rpm the oil splashes around a lot more than usual. There is very little room at the back of the case to improve on the weld as the gears are too close to the oil inlet. The solution for now is to apply sealant on the outside to hold the oil in. The aluminum billet rear case is also quite thin so very little room for improvement.
The permanent solution is to redo the billet case with all the feed lines built in at the correct spots. However, the cost in CNC is quite prohibitive.
02-21-2013, 08:55 PM
#436
rev it up
Thread Starter
A lot of mods have been done to get it right and I prefer it with engine oil.
The hymee has a 3 gear system and if i went to a closed system than the top gear may not get as much oil. Others have had oil leaks in the sealed system due to the lay shaft arrangement. The leak is fairly minor so hopefully the sealant will resolve the issue.
If the supercharger was lying on the side and all gears sitting in oil then a closed system works well.
The hymee has a 3 gear system and if i went to a closed system than the top gear may not get as much oil. Others have had oil leaks in the sealed system due to the lay shaft arrangement. The leak is fairly minor so hopefully the sealant will resolve the issue.
If the supercharger was lying on the side and all gears sitting in oil then a closed system works well.
03-31-2013, 12:03 AM
#438
rev it up
Thread Starter
No more oil leaks and exhaust leaks everything running well again and idle is rock steady at around 900rpm.
I can rev all the way to the buzzer without any hiccups and hesitation. However, I car hear rattling noise from teh LHS rear muffler. I think the perforated pipe may have collapsed due to the extreme heat. So time to get it replaced hopefully, it is still under warranty.
I can rev all the way to the buzzer without any hiccups and hesitation. However, I car hear rattling noise from teh LHS rear muffler. I think the perforated pipe may have collapsed due to the extreme heat. So time to get it replaced hopefully, it is still under warranty.
04-11-2013, 07:12 AM
#439
rev it up
Thread Starter
Exhaust shop is building a new cat back system. It will be a similar size as the stock system, straight perforated pipe, held together with perforated baffles and 100% steel wool packed.
We believe the perforated pipes collapsed due to the extreme heat so installing baffles will provide support.
I am getting tired of the loud exhaust so I am hoping the new cat back will be a lot quieter.
We believe the perforated pipes collapsed due to the extreme heat so installing baffles will provide support.
I am getting tired of the loud exhaust so I am hoping the new cat back will be a lot quieter.
04-11-2013, 08:08 AM
#440
I have Hoss-05's kit and have been putting together a project plan
First thing on the list is to completely disassemble the unit and redo all the seals to avoid all the leaks I keep reading about. I had also considered a close loop system, do you really think it wouldn't adequately lubricate the top gear?
First thing on the list is to completely disassemble the unit and redo all the seals to avoid all the leaks I keep reading about. I had also considered a close loop system, do you really think it wouldn't adequately lubricate the top gear?
04-11-2013, 08:48 AM
#442
rev it up
Thread Starter
My mechanic believes that the best option is to stick with the engine oil. I believe another member had oil leak issues with a sealed system. We also believe the top gear may not get sufficent lubrication with a sealed system.
The standard set up requires modification as the oil needs to be fed in from the top so all the gears get lubricated.
The standard set up requires modification as the oil needs to be fed in from the top so all the gears get lubricated.
04-11-2013, 09:00 AM
#443
but what about a Trans or a diff...they are not submerged and are adequately lubricated? also, weren't there open loop systems that also have leaks (I have read so many build threads recently they are getting all mixed up...haha).
Pardon the inquiry just wrapping my head around it all
Pardon the inquiry just wrapping my head around it all
04-11-2013, 07:34 PM
#444
rev it up
Thread Starter
If the gears are sitting in oil then the oil gets circulated so you get full lubrication. However, if the top gear does not have oil contact it now relies on lubrication with oil that is getting splashed around which may not be sufficent.
My set up has oil trickling onto the top gear thus providing full lubrication. The Pettit system has the gears lying on the side so it is possible to have a closed oiling system.
My set up has oil trickling onto the top gear thus providing full lubrication. The Pettit system has the gears lying on the side so it is possible to have a closed oiling system.
04-11-2013, 09:12 PM
#446
rev it up
Thread Starter
Now that the earlier oil leak issue at site of the weld in the new oil inlet has been resolved I am now getting a slight oil leak from the lay shaft. this can only be caused by the failure of the O ring.
As it is a slight leak I will live with it for now. At the next tear down I will apply sealant around the outside as extra precaution. It worked for the last oil leak.
As it is a slight leak I will live with it for now. At the next tear down I will apply sealant around the outside as extra precaution. It worked for the last oil leak.
05-13-2013, 09:06 PM
#447
rev it up
Thread Starter
Car was not as responsive as usual. Pulled out the air filter and it was very dirty and with some large particled of dirt lodged within the folds.
The filter is located behing the top of the bumper bar so I was not expecting it to get so dirty. I have a duct that catched cool air from the oil cooler opening and directs it to the air filter. I will remove this as it may be responsible for some of the dirt.
I am looking for options for larger/ better flowing air filters at the moment. The space behing the bumper is quite small so options are quite limited.
The filter is located behing the top of the bumper bar so I was not expecting it to get so dirty. I have a duct that catched cool air from the oil cooler opening and directs it to the air filter. I will remove this as it may be responsible for some of the dirt.
I am looking for options for larger/ better flowing air filters at the moment. The space behing the bumper is quite small so options are quite limited.
