olddragger

iTrader: (3)

you have been tracking all the while with that tune?
Wow.
Now I understand how a/f's may change, but i dont understand how timing would change? Thats a lot of timing. My max timing on the leading plug with the oem split is 14.5. Yours looks closer to oem?
You must have really good gas where you live.? We have that ethanol crap stuff--unless we buy race gas. Maybe that is the difference?

skc

I have only been to the track once with the supercharger installed. The car ran well and I did not have any issues with the tune. However, I had some oil leaks that needed fixing and later I developed a boost leak which has been fixed.

The tuner will assess the situation once it goes back on the dyno and hopefully it will run smoothly again.

I wonder if any changes where made to the tune when I plugged in the Protuner brick to gather data. Does the protuner automatically load a flash tune?

skc

In the process of making a new intake so I can have more distance between TB and MAF. I have ordered 3.5"aluminium tubes, silicon connectors and clamps. I have a 4"gap above the intercooler so I have ordered a 4"K&N cone filter. I hope the size is sufficent.

Car is booked with the tuner on Monday

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

hope it all comes together well.
maf will definitly have to be rescaled.

I just posted a little track clip in the Pettit tread--take a peak. It was fun. Spec ford racers are FAST in the turns/braking etc

skc

Delays in getting the intake parts together so will have to postpone tune till later in the week. Also decided change the fuel pump as the hesitation is prominent around 6000rpm where the fuel demand increases.

Is the '09 fuel pump compatible with an '03 model and if so is the install straight forward as I understand it is possibly superior to the older model.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

yes the 09 pump is a much better model. the insatll is easy---just search the forum. I have been running one for a few years now.

skc

Looked at the diy and the conversion of the stock connector to the S2 was a bit vague. I am convinced this is where my problem lies as it started when I filled with Caltex fuel

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

that connector only goes to the fuel level sensor. It has to be reversed--thats all.

skc

We have decided to stick with the standard fiter and later install a aeromotive pump when it becomes available. Struggling with opening the cover as it on very tight. Mechanic had three people on the lever and ended up bending the metal. Will try again next week with a stronger fabricated tool.

On the drive home I noticed the car ran smoother through the rev range. Perhaps the process of disconnecting the fuel line cleared some obstruction.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

to get that plastic ring off-- i use a VERY dull large chisel and a rubber hammer. I hit it repeatively trying to mimic an impact gun. I dont hit that hard. I have never chipped off one of those fins.
There are holes in the top of that ring and I filled them up with wd40 and let it set for a little, before i started.
Its not just the pump--its the entire design of the cup, the suction system used to balance the tanks and the FP regulator. IMHO you will be much better off at this power level with a series 2 fuel pump.

skc

Spent the weekend installing my home made intake system. Also noticed another boost leak, this time it was from one of the silicon joiners and was only picked up when I removed the plastic tray supporting the stock intake.

During the test drive the car had lots of power and the boost shot to 10psi and stayed there during hard acceleration it seemed to have a lot more power than before. Unfortunately after several wot runs it appears I developed another boost leak with a possible tear in the silicon joiner and a possible leak in the seal of the pipe coming out of the compressor. There are two grooves cut into the flange and only 1 seal was present. This seal was a bit frayed so it is a possible weak spot. If I can find the correct seal then it should be a relatively easy fix.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

nice boost numbers--you get a new tune yet?

skc

Photo of the boost leak that has been the root cause of my problems in the last few months. It was hidden behind the intake tray and was picked up during the CAI upgrade.

The home made CAI worked well during the first run. I aso added corflute above the intercooler to help divert air to the intercooler and radiator. This should work better than some of the aftermarket offerings.

The new tune is on hold until I resolve the new boost leak from the compressor outlet. the expert opinion is that the rubber seal failed due to excessive boost and high heat. It will try and replace this with a viton seal. However, the permanent solution requires a redesign with a welded pipe coming out from the compressor outlet so a conventional joiner can be used.

skc

Site of latest suspected boost leak.

The flange is attached to the compressor outlet and the pipe slides into the flange and sealed with a square edge O ring.

At the tip there is a two piece metal piece to provide more meat at the joint. It appears that this is not sealed so it could also be another source of boost leak as well.

The plan is to weld the pipe to the flange and add a silcon coupling for flexibility.

skc

Boost leak finally resolved. Wet on the roads today so I would not do WOT runs safely. However, when I put the foot down in 6th gear the boost shoots to 10psi instantly and stays there until I finish accelerating.

I think welding the joint helped and I also tightened the rest of the couplings as well.

WingleBeast

man, now i have to take my stuff back to the machine shop! good thing it hasent made it to the powder coater yet

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

That is similar to the intake setup I am running. Is that 3.5" pipe? if so, what filter are you running, what I have works but it's hard finding a filter that will fit there that has a 3.5" flange.

Good work, glad you got the boost leak resolved.

skc

I used the following filter http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RU-3550

It fits perfectly in the gap. In that spot it will not be effected by the weather. I also added corflute at the back and the top of the filter which effectively creates an air box.

skc

Welding that pipe will give you a permanent fix for that weak spot. Also need to be very diligent with each joint in the inter cooling pipe as they may not mate perfectly.

As a consequence of all my boost leak issues being resolved I now suffer from excessive oil blow by into the intake. This is caused by increased crank preassure as a result of boost escaping past the engine seals. This week my rubber bung cap on the oil filler blew off and spewed oil all over the engine after several WOT runs.

The immediate solution is to install a catch can however, the long term solution is a rebuild with seals that exceed factory tolarances.

I dont know how the other FI guys are handling this issue at higher than 10 psi boost.

WingleBeast

i just ran a catch can with my turbo setup, fixed that issue no problem. I'll post photos of my other fixes as well, have done some grinding and porting on the collector and outlet to smooth out the machine edges and lips, took a torch to the dogbone to take it apart and added a 5mm spacer, while it was apart i reamed it out to a constant inside diameter. Just trying to improve airflow over those pesky machine issues. hopefully it keeps flow high and cuts down on a few degrees of IAT

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Awesome, thank you man. I used the filter finder tool on a few sites and just could not find anything that fit well. Ideally i want a good paper filter so I am using a filter for a Turbocharged Ecotec that I modified but it's pretty small.

skc

The other advantage of that spot is there is one less bend in the pipe and yes it is a 3.5"pipe

skc

Yes there is room for improvement. I removed the reducer at the outlet side so it should help with the flow.

Hope to get the catch can installed soon. I will need two as there are two breathers on the filler pipe. One goes to the intake and the second goes to the towards the vaccum side and it may actually be vented into the compressor housing.

I will plumb a catch can to both and see what impact it makes.

skc

Catch can installed and no oil in the intake!!.

Drove to a meeting in Gold Coast and back covering 230km. Collected about 5ml of oil in the catch can.

Fuel consumption seems high as I used around 30L of fuel in a mixture of moderate traffic and freeway (50/50)

skc

Cleaned the spark plugs. They all had high levels of carbon deposits and it was more pronounced on L1 and T1. This was mosl likely caused by all the oil that was entering the combustion due to the lack of a catch can and running rich due to the boost leaks.

I am also running colder plugs which is probably not helping either. I will clean and install my standard plugs today.