I think the charger starts boosting normaly from around 6000 rpm,
so it sould not have boost at 5000, more like 0,0hg
i think not sure.
when i saw the boost as talk about, it was a nother day out testing.
Apex seals, from New Zealand.
calls them indestructible, only found him on a search page from NZ.
Gives 1 year 100% garanty. op to 31 psi.
1000$ repair garanty.
cost 400$ NZ.

 

I don't think you can equate PSI with rpm that way . It all depends on what flow the motor will ingest as to what PSI will be present . IE if you put the SC on a really small motor at high rpm you will get high PSI . Put it on a huge motor and at high RPM PSI will be minimal - see what I'm saying ?
Do you have a flow chart for the SC that gives flow vs rpm vs pressure ?
Do you have a link to the Apex seal guys you mentioned ?

 

I think hymee's hypothesis on why your manifold blew is a reasonable explanation.

the chart you were reading is the flow map and the RPM lines are the impeller.

75/140 = step-up from the pulleys 1.86
then there is a 7.5 to one step-up inside the supercharger.
so when your motor is @
1000rpm * 1.86 = 1866 rpm going into the SC
then 1866*7.5 = 14000rpm impeller

if this was your gearing I would expect boost below 4000rpm!

if you were running under 1/2 throttle you would only see vacuum in the manifold. it is only when you open the throttle the boost will appear.

I would try for an impeller speed of 70000rpm it will run on the tail end of this line @ about 1.8 pr and the flow carts are said to be optimistic. so I would expect a 1.6pr (8.8psi) @ 8500rpm.

this would be a 100mm SC pulley (largest available) and a 112mm crank pulley (about the water pump, alternator drive size) to start with.
this should keep you around 8psi @ 8500rpm then you can change SC pulleys to fine tune. I would guess you will end up around 90-95mm SC pulley.

 

13B SSA Unbreakable *2mm* Apex Seals
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-233421699.htm
dont now enything of this, just what he writes.
sounds interessting.
rgds lars

 

nothing there about seals for Renesis .

 

i think thats right, starting low end with a 100mm SC pulley.

Also the hymee explanation sounds right.

why not 110mm Sc puley, and my 140mm? just asking.

 

No?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-233421699.htm
Try this
he writes:
NOW IN STOCK 13B 2mm Apex Seals Manufactured by Street Systems Automotive in our CNC equipped workshop. Used in all our engines from standard to PP Turbos.
Rated to over 10,000+ rpm & 30+ psi boost. Seal life for normal road use is 70,000 to 90,000 kms. We are now able to mass produce these seals at a more competitive price. 12 MONTH WARRANTY.

 

that would work but a little more than I would start with. the 110mm SC pulley isn't listed by rotrex (in the c38 data sheet) so it would be a custom pulley
it would result in around 80,000 rpm for the impeller. boost would be around 8psi-14psi @ 8500rpm.

 

nope same auction .
There are apex seals available from a vendor on this site Esmeril racing . They are US$500

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=apex+seals

 

i think your right, less is more right now.

is it me or can you not see that info on the: NOW IN STOCK 13B 2mm Apex Seals Manufactured by Street Systems Automotive in our CNC equipped workshop. Used in all our engines from standard to PP Turbos.
or did i miss something??

Thanks

 

looks good that deal, enyone tryed them on?
i need a new set, so those ones would be the best choise.
stronger, better sealing, no damage to rotor if burned, aso.
same price as mazda, here.

 

yes you missed that a 13B is not a Renesis MSP 13B

 

one other question.
How is the water cooling / metanol, compared to intercooler?
Intercooler takes force from charged air, no? By resistance.
intercooler is not needed, if the combustion parts dont exeed the heat they where build for, no?
And can you run a more lean mix, if induced water/metanol?

 

Its a boat - why would you use a conventional intercooler?
Use a water heat exchanger and us the infinite supply of coolant available to you outside the hull.

 

My mistake, by the 2mm apex seals, belived it was for the renesis.
the other ones looks good: Esmeril Racing seals

 

I do, already, 300 Kw titanium, heat exchanger cooling the engine.
For the intercooler, the same, Boosted intercooler, is done by passing water tru the air comming from the charger.
But i want it as simple as posible, and need to cool my combustion, so... with boosted intercooler, or water/Metanol induced cooling.
If i cool down with the Water/metanol, i dont loose power, ( i need a lot of piping to make the intercooler, and without, i only have 40cm from the charger to the intake, direct almoest)
And if i can run more lean (safe safe), i gain power and economi.
this is an experiment so i want 100%, in a controlled environment, like the boat. i run it for long time with the same tork/rpm, on the engine.
Its for speed records.

Thanks for your time and patience with my English.

 

Just took the engine out today, will take it apart tomorrow. Spoke to on of the tuners. well, patience, was he´s answer i guess. he will come back to me......
I will order the Esmeril racing apex, + one new housing. will see about the rotor, anyone has a spare rear rotor?
I will take some pictures and post it on my profile here.
something else!
for improved cooling has anyone tryed an external electric waterpump, skipping the one on the engine, setting up an external electrical powered waterpump.
suppose to run on a lot less power than the original pump, and be course its controlled by a sensor it runs only when the engine is warm. And it gives better flow, no cavitation in the liquid, higher flow rate, more effective.
thanks Uall, for an awesome forum
Rgds Lars

 

Try mazmart's water pump replacement. Takes care of your concerns and is not an electric pump.
Electric pumps are great in big displacement engines, in our case they are pretty useless.

 

Cheers for the answers, here is some pictures. just got it disassembled.
Blown both front and rear rotor.
The rear rotor has taken the worst beating.
No sign of heat problems, no serious carbon build up.
Just some smash apex, that has destroyed the housings and rotors.

What are the signs off????
Blown by high boost?
or wrong setting by my ECU, Timing, lean mix?
it was done in a few seconds of running the engine with throttle more than 60%

cant get the pictures up here on the post, will display them on my profile.
See this video, before it blew.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahOsZwu3_4Q