9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Sweet. Good to hear things are going well.

Talic

finally got the pump so ill try to get it in on monday
a bit tied up sat/sunday.
once this is in ill get the guages done.

Mawnee

Good luck! Hopefully this pump does the trick

Talic

yay pump is in and oil flowing!!!
tomorrow if i get ff work early i will tidy up the lines (oil and electric)
and reinstall the last silencer (and possiblt trim my tip)
upgrade my rear swaybar end links as they are a bit too short

however while i was testing the pump i have a check engine light
the code is P0335 crank sensor A circuit malfunction

i would assume its just a dirty face since the vehicle runs just random missing
or anyone else have suggestions?

still hoping for mms tune, but the car is driveable
still need to get guages in.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Reset the ESS, 20 brake stomp and see if it goes away.

Talic

okay well
the cobb couldnt get rid of it
the brake stomp couldnt do it either
i hosed it down and it got rid of the light and the on off hesitation
however car still feel sluggish
perhaps needs more cleaning
or its because ive been driving a 1.8 auto corolla (more torque)

i got the pump running by ignition however cant get the timer to work properly
i think the diagram they gave me wont apply for the rx8

they have it as a normally open with a trigger wire
however they have it for the alternator
im wiring it to the ignition so it will either work while key is off for 30 secs or will only work ith key on.

i would assume i need to wire it to the normally closed circuit
ill try to get it done tomorrow

so far i drove home (approx 45km) and not a drop
however all the other pumps did the same so im a bit worried to see what happens tomorrow morning.

but the car feels really sluggish
i hope its just the crank sensor
feels like low compression -eep- but the car starts and idles fine.
just feels like not spooling like before i hope the turbo is still fine.
if the turbo is dead ill probibly go a smaller A/R
or its because ive been driving a 1.8 auto corolla (more torque) as mentioned above

more to come as the days go by

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You should make a habit of logging g/s regularly- this can tell you a lot about what is going on as it relates directly with the power your car is making . If you can log boost this is usefull as well .

Do a log put it into xl then overlay future logs to see if you are getting anywhere .

Seeing it in front of you is much better than feeling it on your butt dyno

Talic

well im sure it needs to be cleaned up more
as the light is back

i have the cobb switching between g/s and a/fs
everything looks normal.

however at higher rpm above 5k i still have some seepage from the turbine.

perhaps change the T fitting to a Y to allow both to flow better (i like this idea best)
or change the oritation of the T (i dislike this idea since it failed on my last pump)
or i may have to run 3 lines 2 returns (one turbo return other bypass return) (i like this idea 2nd best)

see attached Imput would be greatly appreaciated

Talic

Still working on the minor oil seepage after 4k mark.
I didn’t do any mods to the oil system since i didn’t get a response to my last post
But most likely tomorrow or Sunday I’ll get the y put in to see if it helps (have to make/weld a custom y out of aluminum) but I can’t decide to put the turbo on the straight part of the y or the pump.
Keep in mind the pump is 20psi 2gpm

I did an oil change and went full synthetic 5w40.
But previously i had the jeyo-14-302 filter on it now i have the jeyo-14-302a
The 302a has more holes at the bottom and larger diameter,
And the inside has more holes larger diameter.
Can’t say if the filtering is better because i can only see the one in the 302a
It seems very tightly packed fins.

Unfortunately my choices of filters out here are limited. Does anyone have specs on these?
Perhaps the filter is the cause of my backpressure to the turbo?
Rather than the oil going through the filter it’s over pressurizing the charge line to the turbo
(Return wouldn’t be effected as it’s connected to the oil breather)

bumblebeerx8

iTrader: (7)

I dont think putting a Y in will help with getting oil away from the turbo. It may make a small difference but being a pipe fitter not enough to matter. the key is to get enough volume away from the turbo. All i can see doing is making the return side bigger or running multiple. As fo the filer question your samwich plate should be letting the oil out before it gets restricted at least thats the way mine appears to look.

Talic

perhaps i will remove the bypass
the reason why i put it before was because the pump was inadiquit.
would you suggest to get rid of the bypass since i have 2x 1.5mm reducers
it appears to flow through the turbo fine just at high rpm a couple of oz. leaks out.
perhaps the bypass pressure is too high stopping the flow of the drain/pump

with my sandwitch its a 2 chamber unlike (RB) where its single
with a single the oil goes through the filter and has some ports to let some oil out
with a double all oil must come out and all oil must return before going to the filter

see attached to understand better

i will order a single chamber such as RB next week when i get paid
then make the turbo oil line as small as possible and have the return as a 3/8s with the 2gal/m pump.

the reason being no need for all the extra lines, points of failure/leaks etc.
imput is requested

Talic

yay removing the bypass cured all my issues
so lesson learend to everyone get a good scavange pump with single chamber sandwitch plate.
now to do the guages, boost controler, and tuning -prays for MM-

bumblebeerx8

iTrader: (7)

what pump did you end up running was it the RB spur gear

Talic

yes its the RBRacing
so far works great.i havent ventured past 6k rpm with their smallest one
but so far so good.
only thing i might change if the 6k+ becomes an issue is have the return line 1/2 inch insted of 3/8s

now i need a solution for the breather built into the cap.
right now i have a 3/8s hole drilled into the top of the can but im getting some vapors fogging up my windshield.
ill try to drill out 1/2 inch put an elbow and a hose that goes underneeth the car.
possibly a catch can

whats the best way to route the signal wire for the A/F? i was thinking go through the shifter cover.
same question for the truboost i need to run a vaccum/boost hose from through the firewall.
any suggestions for there?

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Flat spot behind washer fluid bottle. I drilled a hole (1/2 , 3/4") and put in a grommet...works great.

Talic

im thinking closer to the driver area
since it will be steering collum mounted like people do with greddy's kit
guess ill find a way through the harness or sumthing

Talic

okay got the afr guage in
and geeze does it bounce around like a kid with ADD in a candy store or sumthing
im past my 6 month tuning by exactly 30 days lol
so i guess ill have to cough up $300 or what not and reque for another month or so for my tune.
or some prviate lessons on the basics of the cobb mazda race tuner (kudos those whom help me learn)
oh and kane im completely lost on how to set up your baseline. any pointers? shoot it out to my email

still need to get the boost controller in. photos and some tiding up.
but its fun. i think boost will be a bit higher then expected but its probibly tuning issue.

Talic

still out in afghan in camp phoenix
got a week left of work then heading back to uae
at which point ill get the boost controller in
and will have to buy MM tune time as im now past the 6 months

Talic

well back to the real world
i got a 4.01 tune from mm
now to go onto next phase of tuning
when i get caught up ill tidy it up and post vidoes/sound bites

Talic

the tune is really nice the bad news is i ripped out my charge pipe on a godzilla speedbump.
thats what i get for cruising around on a road i havent been on, in a country that doesnt put up signs, lights or paint the bumps.
the good news no holes in the tanks, or damaged alignment. just a hurt wallet.
vehicle will be down for a while as i dont have time to rebuild the charge pipe.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

bummer . How does/did the turbo feel ? How much lag and what rpm/psi ?

Talic

actually it comes on so smooth i dont noticethat im boosting, just feels like a higher output version of a renesis lol or a 3rd rotor lol
but alot more torqie if such thing is possible speically noticable below 4krpm where it needed it most
full boost about 4400 but it can probibly be brought down with tune.
this week is family time and 4th year aniversary so usinga rental so ina week or two it should be running and will submit for tune 2 from MM

Talic

okay got the car running again.
when i get time to tidy up everything (cut the cable ties (for the oil lines) and remove the extra plumbing/vacuum/oil lines
pictures will be taken but the mounting and pipe design is exactly the same as bumblebeers rx8
(since we both helping eachother out) https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/rear-mount-turbo-project-204248/

Talic

i am back from my months of traveling. for a little while.
then im off to usa. were i will hopefully perminately relocate.

i have a couple videos ill try to post over the weekend.
the tune isnt the greatest but im able to hit 8,500 rpm
the pull is nice. a bit too loud exteriorly of the vehicle but inside its a nice hmm.
but ive got some changes that should lower it.

got the car up on stands. for some under chassis modification and revamp of the exhaust/charge system.

after this step is done i will decrease the turbo to somewhere gt30 area.
probibly turbonics or garret.

i still dont have the tru boost controller in the vehicle
boost is being only controlled by the sring and vacc/boost ports.

it leans out a bit mid rpm but usually stays at 12.4 area after 6,000 rpm.

i wont bother tuning more untill the new turbine is in.
and will probibly pay MM for the support tune.

FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

what PSI are you getting out of the wastegate?