Pettit Super Charger Owners
#2227
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Juan
Where are you measuring your intake temps from? I thought you were doing it from the old peittit site on the upper manifold? But I noticed you said that you had an injector there and that you were going to move it?
I only had a 225 pre blower. Today i changed to the next size i had a 375. Seems to work better. But i am beginning to think that post blower may work better? What are your thoughts?
Olddragger
Where are you measuring your intake temps from? I thought you were doing it from the old peittit site on the upper manifold? But I noticed you said that you had an injector there and that you were going to move it?
I only had a 225 pre blower. Today i changed to the next size i had a 375. Seems to work better. But i am beginning to think that post blower may work better? What are your thoughts?
Olddragger
#2228
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Juan
Where are you measuring your intake temps from? I thought you were doing it from the old peittit site on the upper manifold? But I noticed you said that you had an injector there and that you were going to move it?
I only had a 225 pre blower. Today i changed to the next size i had a 375. Seems to work better. But i am beginning to think that post blower may work better? What are your thoughts?
Olddragger
Where are you measuring your intake temps from? I thought you were doing it from the old peittit site on the upper manifold? But I noticed you said that you had an injector there and that you were going to move it?
I only had a 225 pre blower. Today i changed to the next size i had a 375. Seems to work better. But i am beginning to think that post blower may work better? What are your thoughts?
Olddragger
My AIT temp sensor is located 45 degrees from the original kit temp sensor location. A while back I drilled an tapped a hole in order to use the original AIT sensor location for my secondary meth nozzle. Currently that hole is plugged and my AIT sensor is still located 45 degrees towards the back (firewall side) of the upper intake manifold. If you decide to run a secondary nozzle, I recommend drilling and tapping somewhere right after the intercooler or the same location I did. Take a close look at the original kit AIT sensor location and you will notice that if you put a secondary nozzle there, the nozzle will only be spraying (for the most part) into the intermediate housing. Yes, I know that the intermediate housing provides air/fuel to both rotor housings but I thing going father away not only will provide methanol to all three housings intakes but it will allow better atomization of the methanol/air/fuel mixture.
Also, I ran a 225ml nozzle post-blower but dyno testing showed that it decreased the engine total output by 25~35whp. Dyno test showed that it was better to run a bigger nozzle pre-blower and smaller nozzle post-blower or a bigger nozzle pre-blower if you don’t want to run a post-blower nozzle. The best pre/post nozzle combination can only be determine by putting the car on a dyno since there is no way that butt dyno can sense around 30 or so whp differences. Well unless you have a fine tuned butt dyno.
I think that 100ml pre-blower and 60ml post-blower will provide the best combination base on my experience with the dyno runs we did at Pettit. To much methanol will induce random misfire and/or loss of power.
#2230
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hose removed period and vacuum capped off doesnt matter where you cap it. just leave the electronics.
Juan thanks for the answer man-- I am going to play with the 375 a little bit. Max out at 5 and min at 2.5--no misfires yet--but i only take her to 7.5. maybe a big nozzle pre blower with a very gradual scale will be ok?
The cooling you are getting is impressive. Mine did not do that with the smaller nozzle pre blower. With the bigger nozzle it does some. It may be that post blower will be best since we have such long dang intake runners. And a pre blower one to help the blower out.
To run a dual nozzle set up just order the y fitting and the nozzles--right?
olddragger
Juan thanks for the answer man-- I am going to play with the 375 a little bit. Max out at 5 and min at 2.5--no misfires yet--but i only take her to 7.5. maybe a big nozzle pre blower with a very gradual scale will be ok?
The cooling you are getting is impressive. Mine did not do that with the smaller nozzle pre blower. With the bigger nozzle it does some. It may be that post blower will be best since we have such long dang intake runners. And a pre blower one to help the blower out.
To run a dual nozzle set up just order the y fitting and the nozzles--right?
olddragger
#2231
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hose removed period and vacuum capped off doesnt matter where you cap it. just leave the electronics.
Juan thanks for the answer man-- I am going to play with the 375 a little bit. Max out at 5 and min at 2.5--no misfires yet--but i only take her to 7.5. maybe a big nozzle pre blower with a very gradual scale will be ok?
The cooling you are getting is impressive. Mine did not do that with the smaller nozzle pre blower. With the bigger nozzle it does some. It may be that post blower will be best since we have such long dang intake runners. And a pre blower one to help the blower out.
To run a dual nozzle set up just order the y fitting and the nozzles--right?
olddragger
Juan thanks for the answer man-- I am going to play with the 375 a little bit. Max out at 5 and min at 2.5--no misfires yet--but i only take her to 7.5. maybe a big nozzle pre blower with a very gradual scale will be ok?
The cooling you are getting is impressive. Mine did not do that with the smaller nozzle pre blower. With the bigger nozzle it does some. It may be that post blower will be best since we have such long dang intake runners. And a pre blower one to help the blower out.
To run a dual nozzle set up just order the y fitting and the nozzles--right?
olddragger
"but i only take her to 7.5" What!
9K while on "drive it like you stole it" mode. That's how I got 9 psi boost plus the new bypass valve works awesome.
Last edited by marsredr100; 05-31-2008 at 09:02 PM.
#2232
Juan, what were your observed differences between the old bypass valve and your new one? I am sure this is a redundant question but if you wouldn't mind linking me to your posted information I would appreciate it.
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Post 2049
Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis.
Post 2075
Quote:
Originally Posted by morkusyambo Juan. Are you going to try some of the springs with your new valve?? As you allready know, Phil is reporting 13-14lbs. I'm excited(and I hope others are also) to possibly learn this is reproducible by simply changing the valve.
Nope. Phil is running 13-14lbs because he has a 4 port engine and it was explained right after he posted those figures.
I talked to Cam and he explained to me that the reason for not loading a spring is to led some of the compressed air bleed back into the blower while cruising thus keeping the engine temps down, compressor noise down and it also saves fuel. Once you step on the gas the valve shuts immediately regardless if you have as spring installed or not.
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One more note: I coated the inside of the valve assembly with a little bit of synthetic motorcycle chain lubricant in order to facilitate the movement of the piston inside the valve. Synthetic lubricants or any type of synthetic product will not turn black or degrade with time hence why I use synthetic lubricants on everything an automobile or motorcycle requires.
Also, with the old valve I reached 8.3 psi every once in a while but with the new one I attain 8.7 psi all the time and 9.0 psi if I push it up to 9k rpm. Bottom line, the valve does its job, transition from vac to boost is way faster and higher boost psi event though there is no spring istalled.
Last edited by marsredr100; 06-01-2008 at 06:20 AM.
#2235
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Juan believe it or not--i am actually faster by shifting before 8K. My factory tach at above 7K is about 500rpms off. I saw it at the track. Going over 7.5 K (on my tach--so really 8K). Also --on the track--that extra 1K causes a LOT of heat to be generated. And -- i know this is weird, but after 8K (corrected) the car doesnt "feel" as good--the sounds and feedback---really dont know how to explain it--just doesnt feel as good.
Dude I am going to HAVE to get you on track with me someday. Maybe Roebling in Savannah or I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car
The turbo xs rbv-25 valve I have seems to be working well. Guess I do need a boost gauge to be sure.
olddragger
Dude I am going to HAVE to get you on track with me someday. Maybe Roebling in Savannah or I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car
The turbo xs rbv-25 valve I have seems to be working well. Guess I do need a boost gauge to be sure.
olddragger
#2236
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Also Ray and Jeff are going to be in Tampa on 6/14 for a dyno day. I am planning to go up meet them and hopefully pick up my ignition upgrade kit from them.
Just an FYI.
It would be nice to have RX8s with the different kits out there to compare.
Pettit, BHR/MM, and Mazsport.
#2238
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If you guys do sebring let me know I'll come up.
Also Ray and Jeff are going to be in Tampa on 6/14 for a dyno day. I am planning to go up meet them and hopefully pick up my ignition upgrade kit from them.
Just an FYI.
It would be nice to have RX8s with the different kits out there to compare.
Pettit, BHR/MM, and Mazsport.
Also Ray and Jeff are going to be in Tampa on 6/14 for a dyno day. I am planning to go up meet them and hopefully pick up my ignition upgrade kit from them.
Just an FYI.
It would be nice to have RX8s with the different kits out there to compare.
Pettit, BHR/MM, and Mazsport.
#2239
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Juan believe it or not--i am actually faster by shifting before 8K. My factory tach at above 7K is about 500rpms off. I saw it at the track. Going over 7.5 K (on my tach--so really 8K). Also --on the track--that extra 1K causes a LOT of heat to be generated. And -- i know this is weird, but after 8K (corrected) the car doesnt "feel" as good--the sounds and feedback---really dont know how to explain it--just doesnt feel as good.
Dude I am going to HAVE to get you on track with me someday. Maybe Roebling in Savannah or I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car
The turbo xs rbv-25 valve I have seems to be working well. Guess I do need a boost gauge to be sure.
olddragger
Dude I am going to HAVE to get you on track with me someday. Maybe Roebling in Savannah or I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car
The turbo xs rbv-25 valve I have seems to be working well. Guess I do need a boost gauge to be sure.
olddragger
Savannah sounds great. I can stop by my mom's house in Jacksonville charge her for my visit (need gas money) plus food. Can I track with street tires? I just had my car alignment done by a shop in Orlando. I had three guys working on the alignment. Two of them ex IMSA team crewmembers. They spent over an hour working and street testing the car alignment and it now rides like a dream. The guy that test drove the car told me that he purposely took a longer route to test the final setting because he felt in love with the car. On my way back I purposely took an I-4 exit at double the posted speed limit (45mph) to pass or fail my new alignment. I'm still alive so it now handles incredibly awesome. Of course I also did the not mandatory but ever invigorating 130+mph I-4 run.
#2244
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Juan---that would be so cool. nothing like passing cars on the track that dont believe a rx 8 can do that!
Street tires are fine. I will check the next event we can get in on (after the weather cools ok? all day at the track in 100f weather is not fun to me anymore.)
And you thought that the car drove well before the alignment!! It sure surprised me too.
Trouble is you can get too confident because it is so balanced and when the tail breaks loose it can be hard to catch if you are not expecting it.
You hear about the 8 yr 100K extended warrenty mazda as authorized? yes for ALL Rx 8's
olddragger
Street tires are fine. I will check the next event we can get in on (after the weather cools ok? all day at the track in 100f weather is not fun to me anymore.)
And you thought that the car drove well before the alignment!! It sure surprised me too.
Trouble is you can get too confident because it is so balanced and when the tail breaks loose it can be hard to catch if you are not expecting it.
You hear about the 8 yr 100K extended warrenty mazda as authorized? yes for ALL Rx 8's
olddragger
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#2247
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it is big big fun. street tires are fine. just stay within your limits.
i need to come to lakeland and see what you have done..
will be going to tampa tomorrow.. send me a pm with your cell # and i will drop by on the way home.. if that is cool with you..
beers
i need to come to lakeland and see what you have done..
will be going to tampa tomorrow.. send me a pm with your cell # and i will drop by on the way home.. if that is cool with you..
beers
OD
Savannah sounds great. I can stop by my mom's house in Jacksonville charge her for my visit (need gas money) plus food. Can I track with street tires? I just had my car alignment done by a shop in Orlando. I had three guys working on the alignment. Two of them ex IMSA team crewmembers. They spent over an hour working and street testing the car alignment and it now rides like a dream. The guy that test drove the car told me that he purposely took a longer route to test the final setting because he felt in love with the car. On my way back I purposely took an I-4 exit at double the posted speed limit (45mph) to pass or fail my new alignment. I'm still alive so it now handles incredibly awesome. Of course I also did the not mandatory but ever invigorating 130+mph I-4 run.
Savannah sounds great. I can stop by my mom's house in Jacksonville charge her for my visit (need gas money) plus food. Can I track with street tires? I just had my car alignment done by a shop in Orlando. I had three guys working on the alignment. Two of them ex IMSA team crewmembers. They spent over an hour working and street testing the car alignment and it now rides like a dream. The guy that test drove the car told me that he purposely took a longer route to test the final setting because he felt in love with the car. On my way back I purposely took an I-4 exit at double the posted speed limit (45mph) to pass or fail my new alignment. I'm still alive so it now handles incredibly awesome. Of course I also did the not mandatory but ever invigorating 130+mph I-4 run.
#2248
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Seriously--we all need to get together at least once a yr. Roebling is a good track for fun, has good local support and the Ga boys will take good care of ya. Maybe one yr Roebling, the next year Seibring (that sure looks like a high speed fun track). Wont let this die!
Munche, I drove to Pettit's which is a little longer I think ---I live in mid Ga. It's not that bad of a drive at all.
Olddragger
Munche, I drove to Pettit's which is a little longer I think ---I live in mid Ga. It's not that bad of a drive at all.
Olddragger
#2249
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If we plan it out with enough time sounds good. Just to throw it out there Moroso is closed due to they are rebuilding both the drag strip and the road course. Should be awsome when done.