munche187

I don't have the chart I know it has to be seen to be belived I will make sure I keep the next ones.

I am also going to to a race fuel setup I'll be sure to get both the the dyno charts and the data logs so you guys could dissect the info I don't remember how much PSI. I was to happy with the HP results.

munche187

What I use in my mix is Distilled water and VP Race Fuels M1 and M5

40% Water the Methanol portion is 60% That 60% is comprised of 60%M5 and 40% M1

morkusyambo

Munche. Do you have stock injectors?

munche187

For now yes Ray is helping me figure out which ones to upgrade to. They are at 85% or so duty cycle

morkusyambo

Cool. Does the alcohol mix you're using help you to achieve the higher dyno #'s(besides the obvious cooling effect), or is the aggressive tuning the main reason??

munche187

The agressive tuning we did pulls with out the meth and the difference was minor. Dian from EFI Dude leaned out the car and used more agressive timing. I can't wait to see what he does with the Race Fuel.

mysql

It takes ***** to go to the edge - any particular reason you're doing it?

I've never come remotely close to bleeding edge on mine. But a DD with no track use doesn't need it.

munche187

I started going to the track and taking driving classes when possible and I have friends with Highly modded cars so the male ego kicks in.

mysql

ah ha. peer pressure

morkusyambo

I've been to the edge a couple of times. Even though I've survived so far, I allways end up with a nasty case of razor bumbs.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

on track iat(measured approx at the upper intake manifold/lower intake junction) 15 laps over approx 20-25 mins was highest at 141F on a 85F day and high humidity at approx 60-70% ( i think). The "Normal range" on track was the high 120's to mid 130's.
rpms ranged from 5k to 7.2 k or so. Speeds from 70mph to 138mph
of course push the rpms up and the iat increases--but the good thing is with the torque curve we have --and my gearing--- made the higher rpms unnecessary.
IAT's are also influenced by heat soak and engine temps--it all works together.
Putting a extra heat shiled between the exhaust header and the lower intake helps a lot.
olddragger
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Cam and all--- I may have something in regard to intake temps and heat soak issues. I need a little more research/testing but this will be so cool---pun intended.
Olddragger

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Meth is great!

I changed the locations of my meth nozzles today. I relocated the pre-blower nozzle from just after the throttle body to the location where the original brake booster vacuum connector that came with the kit was previously located. I noticed a bit of methanol residue from time to time before the throttle butterfly when I had the nozzle located right after the intake throttle body. Also, I changed the location of the post-blower nozzle to just after the blower in order to add more distance before the lower intake thus allowing more time for the proper atomization of the meth. The second nozzle was previously located at the original IAT sensor location that came with the kit. I realized that having it located there was too close to the lower intake and the nozzle spray was only injecting meth into the center (intermediate) housing due to the configuration of the kit upper intake. Currently I’m running a 225ml nozzle in the pre-blower location and 100ml nozzle in the post-blower location. However, it was previously determined (dyno runs at Pettit) that this is too much meth. I already have a 60ml nozzle on its way (thanks to Ray) and I’m going to set it to 100ml nozzle pre-blower and 60ml nozzle post-blower once it get here next week. Some dyno runs will be done later on to determine the best combination. I wish I had a dyno in my garage.

Anyway, check out the videos my son took while testing my new setup. Sorry but my camera has no sound recorder and my son can’t hold the camera steady while I drive in “like you stole it" mode.

The first video shows AIT of 119F and goes down to 103F at the end of the run. I parked the car and let the AIT temp to go up before the run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ws8ThUyRXnI

The second run shows AIT of 111F and goes down to 100F at the end of the run. This run was done after cruising for a few miles.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NObblVL5DE0

Take a look at my 9.0 boost PSI on the first video (14 second time stamp of the video).

Moon Assad

I saw this the other day and thought I should share it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHXw1...eature=related

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Be careful or you might also end up dead.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stan_Meyer

morkusyambo

Has anybody had issues with their eccentric shaft sensor? I can't get mine to stop throwing codes.

morkusyambo

Do the sensors have a history of going bad??

morkusyambo

I've allready done the brake pedal dance multiple times in conjunction with resetting the ecu. Is there anything else I can do besides buying a new one??

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

PM me with the codes and we can discuss it. We're off-topic here.

morkusyambo

Sure I'll pm you, but this is no more off topic than most of the drivel(ie..not vehicle related) posts in this thread and others.

Moon Assad

I thought this thread was for blower owners to discuss anything they want, not just stuff about superchargers. Yeh, lots of crank sensors have either failed or have been knocked out of wack. Even adding spacers have helped in some cases. Also most of the time if you pull the sensor and clean it, that works also so you should try that first.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I was trying to be respectful of all of you.

The e-shaft sensor is a Hall-effect sensor and wheel assembly which simply sends electrical pulses to the PCM. The sensor, itself, is magnetic in nature. Thus, the first check when we have issues is to be sure there is no debris on the surface of the sensor. The second test is to be sure that the sensor has a resistance of 950-1,250 Ohms at room temperature. This all assumes there is no physical damage to the trigger wheel.

If these tests don't indicate a problem, inspection of the wiring harness is necessary.

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

Mork, Which codes are you getting?

Cheers,
Hymee.

morkusyambo

P0335 and P0336. However, my CEL just went off today even though the codes are still stored in memory.

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

P0335 Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit problem
P0336 Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem

Have any fluids been spilt on the sensor/connector?

Cheers,
Hymee.