Pettit Super Charger Owners
05-11-2008, 07:39 AM
#2079
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substained high speed driving is the real test here --not a sprint .Although very useful and good info you really need to get on track to verify the cooling capacity while you have good air flow. City driving is another story.
Juan have you upgraded the water pump? It does make a difference. The coolant temps are not in range with really hard driving--you need to be at about 210f for that.
All this is without the w/m system---right?
Curious ---what is too high intake temp? What range are we speaking off and why?
oh by the way just picked up a turboxs bypass valve(bosch replacement type) at Summit---i had coupons!!! To install along with a new fuel pump tonight. new fuel pump just for the hell of it.
OD
Juan have you upgraded the water pump? It does make a difference. The coolant temps are not in range with really hard driving--you need to be at about 210f for that.
All this is without the w/m system---right?
Curious ---what is too high intake temp? What range are we speaking off and why?
oh by the way just picked up a turboxs bypass valve(bosch replacement type) at Summit---i had coupons!!! To install along with a new fuel pump tonight. new fuel pump just for the hell of it.
OD
Most of my driving is highway and AutoX. Very little city driving and there is not road course tracks near my location (which BTW is a whole different ball game) as you point it out. I can’t make my car an all-purpose RX8 (road race, ¼ mile drag strip, Autocross, street daily driving, etc.) unless someone is willing to support my home budget. Therefore, for now I concentrate on AutoX and I’m sure that I will never see road course temps unless I win the lotto.
“Juan have you upgraded the water pump?”
Water pump will be upgraded as soon as the current one dies.
“All this is without the w/m system---right?”
Meth does not activate during cruising or moderate driving. It only activates during aggressive driving or WOT mode. You should know that.
05-11-2008, 07:47 AM
#2080
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I you purchase the eBay one today; you should have by Thursday unless you are looking for bling-bling under the hood. It works great, made of billet CNC aluminum, powder coated black inside and out, fits perfect and the best part is that will not cost you an arm and a leg.
05-11-2008, 10:34 AM
#2081
Sorry Juan---didnt know if you had the w/m activated or not.
Certainly understand track access --price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover. cutting back myself --a lot. Great data you are putting out by the way.
I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.
my new valve will leak? I hope I have different results, but thanks for the heads up and I certainly will be looking out for this. At least i got it at Summit Racing and they do not question returns.
Did yall run it without the spring? I kept the spring but I cut it to make a 5 lb'er out of it. So far it has been doing really great. My bosh was really leaking--I think--didnt seem like it was sealing.
This valve's piston does not have o rings, so oiling is important---also the vacuum fitting is also small--so i upgraded that.
I kept the spring in it because i couldn't see how in the position we mount, it would work without it . Cross fingers
Juan thanks for the source--if this doesnt work i will hook up with that.!
OD
Certainly understand track access --price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover. cutting back myself --a lot. Great data you are putting out by the way.
I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.
my new valve will leak? I hope I have different results, but thanks for the heads up and I certainly will be looking out for this. At least i got it at Summit Racing and they do not question returns.
Did yall run it without the spring? I kept the spring but I cut it to make a 5 lb'er out of it. So far it has been doing really great. My bosh was really leaking--I think--didnt seem like it was sealing.
This valve's piston does not have o rings, so oiling is important---also the vacuum fitting is also small--so i upgraded that.
I kept the spring in it because i couldn't see how in the position we mount, it would work without it . Cross fingers
Juan thanks for the source--if this doesnt work i will hook up with that.!
OD
05-11-2008, 12:21 PM
#2082
Sorry Juan---didnt know if you had the w/m activated or not.
Certainly understand track access --price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover. cutting back myself --a lot. Great data you are putting out by the way.
I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.
my new valve will leak? I hope I have different results, but thanks for the heads up and I certainly will be looking out for this. At least i got it at Summit Racing and they do not question returns.
Did yall run it without the spring? I kept the spring but I cut it to make a 5 lb'er out of it. So far it has been doing really great. My bosh was really leaking--I think--didnt seem like it was sealing.
This valve's piston does not have o rings, so oiling is important---also the vacuum fitting is also small--so i upgraded that.
I kept the spring in it because i couldn't see how in the position we mount, it would work without it . Cross fingers
Juan thanks for the source--if this doesnt work i will hook up with that.!
OD
Certainly understand track access --price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover. cutting back myself --a lot. Great data you are putting out by the way.
I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.
my new valve will leak? I hope I have different results, but thanks for the heads up and I certainly will be looking out for this. At least i got it at Summit Racing and they do not question returns.
Did yall run it without the spring? I kept the spring but I cut it to make a 5 lb'er out of it. So far it has been doing really great. My bosh was really leaking--I think--didnt seem like it was sealing.
This valve's piston does not have o rings, so oiling is important---also the vacuum fitting is also small--so i upgraded that.
I kept the spring in it because i couldn't see how in the position we mount, it would work without it . Cross fingers
Juan thanks for the source--if this doesnt work i will hook up with that.!
OD
05-11-2008, 01:04 PM
#2083
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“price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover.”
Correct and that’s why I’m running a once a month AutoX for now. Total cost per event (everything included) less than $75.
“I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.”
I did add almost frozen water to the intercooler reservoir last year at the dyno and it does work but not for to long.
“Did yall run it without the spring?” Currently. Yes.
I did not mod the bypass valve that you are currently using, so that might do the trick.
Correct and that’s why I’m running a once a month AutoX for now. Total cost per event (everything included) less than $75.
“I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.”
I did add almost frozen water to the intercooler reservoir last year at the dyno and it does work but not for to long.
“Did yall run it without the spring?” Currently. Yes.
I did not mod the bypass valve that you are currently using, so that might do the trick.
05-12-2008, 03:19 PM
#2084
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05-15-2008, 10:31 AM
#2087
DEI is indeed better. Just shake a bottle of redline water wetter and shake a bottle of the dei. BIG DIFFERENCE as Juan turned us on too.
You can get the chill charger (pink) or you can get the raditor type(same stuff) but it is blue. Dont use more than recommended--you do need water!
It lower my intake temps over the redline also. I will use it for the radiator next time I change out.
One thing I have seen is that this car does take a while to recover from heat soak---so if you are running--at the end of the event --open that hood!
olddragger
OD
You can get the chill charger (pink) or you can get the raditor type(same stuff) but it is blue. Dont use more than recommended--you do need water!
It lower my intake temps over the redline also. I will use it for the radiator next time I change out.
One thing I have seen is that this car does take a while to recover from heat soak---so if you are running--at the end of the event --open that hood!
olddragger
OD
05-16-2008, 07:03 AM
#2091
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05-16-2008, 07:44 AM
#2092
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05-17-2008, 07:30 AM
#2094
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After I get my ignition upgrade neither will have anything on me lolololol
1000hp Viper Venom spins out at 150mph.
1000hp Viper Venom spins out at 150mph.
05-18-2008, 09:41 PM
#2095
Track report---ambient temps 85-89-- high humidity---temps were NOT a problem. I did have to take a couple cool off laps --but hey that is car management---air intake temp once got to 151F but cooled right off .
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger
05-19-2008, 06:27 AM
#2096
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Track report---ambient temps 85-89-- high humidity---temps were NOT a problem. I did have to take a couple cool off laps --but hey that is car management---air intake temp once got to 151F but cooled right off .
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger
do we have any vids?
05-19-2008, 09:10 AM
#2098
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Track report---ambient temps 85-89-- high humidity---temps were NOT a problem. I did have to take a couple cool off laps --but hey that is car management---air intake temp once got to 151F but cooled right off .
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger
I'll bet you feel a whole lot better now.
05-19-2008, 03:59 PM
#2100
ok some things I saw----!!
This kit helps this car to be fast! MUCH faster. My straight a way speed on the front stretch at Roebling increased to about 138mph(hood was shaking as there was a good crosswind). Before the s.c. my best speed was about 125-126. That extra 12 mph changes everything.
before i was in 5th gear at approx 7.5-8K now i am in 6th gear and pulling strong to the breaking zone(hehe).
So everything has changed--braking zones are different, chassis balance is difference(nose up a lot more on accel now), shifting is different because i now use the higher gears, throttle input and lift is totally changed, but one Good thing I'm using less gas(lower rpms overall!!)
Ok you get the picture.
temps--- 1st day the highest ambient temps were approx 85F with approx 50 humidity. Coolant and oil temps were very good at max of 195-200 and 190 respectfully. Air intake temps measured at the upper in intake manifold(post charger) was highest at 141F. And once the temps get up (a/w intercooler temps) it took a while to get it down. The car was starting to feel noticeably down on power by then. I also think i am getting some boost leak as the power in the upper rpm's (over 6.5) seemed to be not as strong. I was shifting mostly at 7 to 7.2 K--running a short tire (17's). But still the car was fast as hell, couldnt believe the accel in 6th gear.
day 2---max ambients at 89-90 , humidity at 80-90 %(light rain for a short period). Max coolant temps at 215-220 and oil at 210. Now i swapped the heat exchanger to ray's version and i was running hard(temps indicate this!). My intake temps increased to 151F---hotter day and running harder---ok. Now the good part was that I could cool it off in about 1/2 the time it would have taken. In just a short period it was in the 130's. THERE IS A SHARP DROP IN POWER ONCE INTAKE TEMPS GET TO 145f.
During all of this i had my water meth system going.
Ok --also heat soak in the a/f intercooler is a problem. the engine etc really heats the water left in that area after you turn it off and it takes a while to cool that amount of coolant off. We may need a "turbo timer "type of switch for this a/w intercooler to combat this heat soak problem.
Ray heat exchanger is much bigger and thicker. Really sweet piece of work. I am entertaining the idea of a shroud and dual fans for it. Studys i have read indicate this does NOT block airflow even at high speed.
I need bigger tires!!!!!!!! No doubt about that. i am running hoosiers 17' 225/45(hoosiers run wide they are as wide as a 235 in other brands).
Need stronger rear shocks --she is getting tail happy on braking again(the higher speed and more chassis movement now).
BUT THE MAIN THING--THE KIT AND ENGINE WAS SOLID--NO OIL LEAKS, NO BLOW BY, NO ENGINE LIGHTS, NO REAL TEMP PROBS---ITS SOLID.
OD
This kit helps this car to be fast! MUCH faster. My straight a way speed on the front stretch at Roebling increased to about 138mph(hood was shaking as there was a good crosswind). Before the s.c. my best speed was about 125-126. That extra 12 mph changes everything.
before i was in 5th gear at approx 7.5-8K now i am in 6th gear and pulling strong to the breaking zone(hehe).
So everything has changed--braking zones are different, chassis balance is difference(nose up a lot more on accel now), shifting is different because i now use the higher gears, throttle input and lift is totally changed, but one Good thing I'm using less gas(lower rpms overall!!)
Ok you get the picture.
temps--- 1st day the highest ambient temps were approx 85F with approx 50 humidity. Coolant and oil temps were very good at max of 195-200 and 190 respectfully. Air intake temps measured at the upper in intake manifold(post charger) was highest at 141F. And once the temps get up (a/w intercooler temps) it took a while to get it down. The car was starting to feel noticeably down on power by then. I also think i am getting some boost leak as the power in the upper rpm's (over 6.5) seemed to be not as strong. I was shifting mostly at 7 to 7.2 K--running a short tire (17's). But still the car was fast as hell, couldnt believe the accel in 6th gear.
day 2---max ambients at 89-90 , humidity at 80-90 %(light rain for a short period). Max coolant temps at 215-220 and oil at 210. Now i swapped the heat exchanger to ray's version and i was running hard(temps indicate this!). My intake temps increased to 151F---hotter day and running harder---ok. Now the good part was that I could cool it off in about 1/2 the time it would have taken. In just a short period it was in the 130's. THERE IS A SHARP DROP IN POWER ONCE INTAKE TEMPS GET TO 145f.
During all of this i had my water meth system going.
Ok --also heat soak in the a/f intercooler is a problem. the engine etc really heats the water left in that area after you turn it off and it takes a while to cool that amount of coolant off. We may need a "turbo timer "type of switch for this a/w intercooler to combat this heat soak problem.
Ray heat exchanger is much bigger and thicker. Really sweet piece of work. I am entertaining the idea of a shroud and dual fans for it. Studys i have read indicate this does NOT block airflow even at high speed.
I need bigger tires!!!!!!!! No doubt about that. i am running hoosiers 17' 225/45(hoosiers run wide they are as wide as a 235 in other brands).
Need stronger rear shocks --she is getting tail happy on braking again(the higher speed and more chassis movement now).
BUT THE MAIN THING--THE KIT AND ENGINE WAS SOLID--NO OIL LEAKS, NO BLOW BY, NO ENGINE LIGHTS, NO REAL TEMP PROBS---ITS SOLID.
OD