Hi Morkusyambo that is cool to see that you have your car running again. My car is still on the flash from Pettit via ECU Flash. It seems to be very good. I do not think I will change anything until the engine is rebuilt, hopefully I have a while.

Also I do not think much of the old crew is around here anymore unfortunately. Rote8 post now and then but thats about it.

Hopefully you are able to get your kit up and going soon. What are you doing for tuning?

 

With the bonehead move I made a couple days ago, I had to use the 'Deflood procedure' in earnest. I'd already had the plugs out to clear the chambers from the flood (with massive soaking of the frame after spinning it over a few times), so fuel pump relay out, air pump connector yanked, crank it 10 seconds, let it rest 30 seconds, repeat X6, go feed the dogs and let everything cool off. It took a couple tries with everything BUT the air pump connector back in place, but once she started firing off...

HOLY CRAP, TEH SMOKE!

So that's what a Seafoam decarb looks like. There were a few moments when I was sure the neighbors would call 911 about a house fire, it was getting that thick. She wouldn't hold an idle for the first few moments, but gradually settled into a normal idle down sequence as the coolant temp came up. Smoke dissipated over about 10 minutes, left it to idle up to normal, revved a few times, and shut it down with the "3 grand key cut". Came back after about 10 minutes to try a 'hot start', and was very happy indeed to have it spin up like nothing had ever happened.

So. Wiring appears to be functional, no fuel leaks, intake tract seems to hold vacuum, with one little exception:





OK, I have no idea what this is. Methanol port, boost sensor inlet, what? I taped it over to seal it off for the time being.

General overview of the mess. I've got a lot of cleanup to do, but here's where it stands now:





Those two bit of blue tape on the strut bar are why I call it '... one step sideways'. The intercooler interferes with the bar between those two points. Guess I either "massage" the bar to move it forward, or up, or find an aftermarket bar that'll fit. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Sharp-eyed observers will notice the SC belt is NOT installed. One step at a time. Get the silly thing deflooded first, let the ECU try to set an idle point, then attach the belt and start working up.




The OEM ignition tray was corroded, nasty, a total eyesore. This was what I came up with to replace it. I've got a couple ideas for cleaning up the wiring, it ain't finished yet! The plate has cutouts under the coil potting area, ala the Pettit recommended fix on the OEM tray, so we'll see if the coils develop those stupid burn marks despite it.

Onward...

 

I bought a Cobb V2 with the intent on trying a base tune on my own, leaning on Kane's "So You Want To Be A Tuner?" lesson thread elsewhere on the forum.

All I have to do now is find that 25th and 26th hours in a day.

 

Haven't seen Denny in a couple years, since he went to the dark side, got a Vette and sold the -8.

If you don't mind, and if it is unlocked, I'd like to see a Cobb map for the Pettit. The base maps supplied with the Cobb itself are a little sad.

 

Here is my latest Cobb v2 open tune file from my car, I ran this on my daily driver for months.

The Fuel injectors are set to Yellow primaries and Blue everywhere else.
Very little timing, not a super power tune.


Open it in the Cobb ATR software, change the injectors to match your sizes and latencies, save out as a new file to use with your Cobb serial.

This was originally a Cobb Stage 1 file before having almost all the air/fuel and timing changed for forced induction.

Feel free to tell me how much can be improved, (it is tuned for street) as I drove it for many months safely, there is a LOT of power that is not in this tune that can be reclaimed by going leaner or by adding advance. (if you feel lucky on the street or run race gas)

 

I appreciate the gesture, good sir!

Now, if I'd quit courting one disaster after another, I'll be able to check it out.

 

Sorry I missed your initial posts. Welcome to the LY Pettit club! I am a little jealous how much tidier your kit looks compared with mine. I switched from EFI dude to Cobb myself and regret it. MM could never get it to idle as well. I would offer my tune up but I am pretty sure its locked from MM.

 

Thanks, and no worries about the MM tune. I bought the Cobb before hearing about MazdaEdit, and at this point, I'm a little sick of the money I've thrown in (and away) building this car.

What was that line again? "Speed cost money, how fast is your wallet?" Yeah, that.

 

I never could learn the procedure for tuning the 8 with the Cobb. That was OK as long as I had people in the area that could help.

Easy E1 and Kane tuned it a couple of months ago but they are far away now.

I have decided to just sell it as it sits in my garage on a trickle charger gathering dust. I was the first Automatic to install the Pettit supercharger and as had good luck with the set up. The unit was installed by BHR.

 

Hello, if you want to send a base map, I will have a look.

What are your injector sizes?

 

Thank you for your offer but It's ok. I never had much luck with electronics. With my luck I would fry the engine while trying to tune it. This car has all the bells, whistles, and bling and will make some one a great car. It is tuned now and passed smog but seems to need more tuning than I am able to give it.......

 

I saw a post about this earlier today. It was sad to see but it was nice to know you still own the car. Hopefully whoever buys yours appreciates it.

 

hey Phil ............we've missed you (and your avatar ) .

 

So over the winter I was able to make some changes with my car. I now have the SakeBombGarage Ignition kit. It is running on the same dwell time that the OEM coils were set at. I mounted a larger heat exchanger where the plastic piece would normally be on the MS bumper. And last I now have a full set of guages running in the car to monitor conditions. My gauges include AFR, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp/Pres, Coolant TMP, Boost, and Coolant temp for the Supercharger. Five Gauges plus running a GOODBox. I am consistently hitting 6lbs of boost. I hope to get the car on a dyno in the next few months to see what numbers it will put down. I do plan to mount a CAI in the front bumper rather than the engine bay and also install a larger coolant tank for the Supercharger system. I have attached a couple images of my setup currently.


I do have one thing that has been a concern of mine with my kit. I have heard other members say that their under hood radiator for the SC system is cool to the touch. Mine is that way under light driving but as soon as im really getting things going it does get quite hot. I would not be able to keep my hand on it for more than 5 seconds or so at times. Now I am monitoring the coolant temp in that system and it has only been over 100 degrees a few times. The lowest my sensor reads is 80 and that is where it usually is. Ambient temps have been around 75 here lately. I have taken a infrared thermometer to the intake manifold as well as the SC and it definitely is cooler on the side of the radiator further from the compressor, right about 20 degrees cooler. This is just from the metal temps. I am wanting to get a air temp sensor installed post radiator here soon. Until then can anyone else confirm their under hood radiator seems to run cooler than mine?

 

Looks great man!
Seen this car at DGRR and she's a beauty!
Keep up the awesome work!

 

I have a mechanical temp gauge plumbed into the coolant line for the SC and have been watching for years now. I used to drive mine into NYC for work so I would sit in terrible traffic. Summer months I used to see regulary around 150-160. Its usually around 110-125. Since its mechanical, I only have the hash marks to estimate it. But i am also running the high boost pulley of 11psi (which hilariously matched the MPG of my last fillup).

 

Thanks for the quick reply. That does make me feel better about my coolant temps. Is your sensor before or after the coolant goes through the heat exchanger? My sensor is midway through my heat exchanger. Any info on how it feels to the touch after some spirited driving? I have a feeling a lot of my heat is just from transferring from one metal to the other. One day i'd like to upgrade to 11psi but for now I want to get things dialed in where they are at.

 

What is the part # for our SC belt?

Did anyone ever figure out a trick to help with belt squeal/slippage at high rpm?

 

ive worked on keck03 s/c belt many times and it sux cause theres no real adjuster. its a **** design. he tried several belts and i think the best for him was the gatorback belt. it helps to have two people. one to hold a lot of tension and another to lock it in place

 

RX-8 Picture by keck03 | 2957967 | RX8Club.com

Here is a photo of my setup. Its spliced into the coolant hose running from the tank. In the pic its near the bend in the hose near the air pump. You can prob spot the zip ties holding the sensor in the line.

Which thing are you wondering feels hot?

 

The part numbers that Cam gave me never worked. I ordered a couple of different sizes and just found one that worked. Make sure you use Gatorback belts. They have the best chance at holding. Also do you have the updated bracket?

I could give you the part number off mine but the belt is sized for the high boost (11psi) pulley. Which boost pulley are you running?

 

Low boost pulley. What's changed on the new bracket?

 

What's the part # for the gator back? Do you use belt dressing?

 

Low boost pulley combo belt for my setup is Continental Elite Poly-V Belts 4050330 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing , have seen the 335 and 340 discussed as fitting others. Longer (higher) number for the bigger pulley(s). Goodyear belts are now Continental.

 

The first bracket had the pulley at like 9 o'clock so all the mounting tension was at one spot. The redesign moved it down a tad and put a bolt/nut on top and below to distribute the tension better. My first bracket was bent from the tension and was slicing into my alternator bracket.