Swoope --yep left apvs in until lim was off then i pulled them.
respect now i believe--both ways
little t eats things up--family stuff . wish you could be at RA dude. This one is going to be good--even the temps are suppose to be in the 80's!

top speed discussion---world starts to change after 120. My main point is that I am driving the car home and there comes a point in which thats enough
example--if i am already at 140 and still have some acceleration room left(which i suspect i will) then I am going to back off because i have never entered the tight braking zone coming up at that speed before. Just as i have had to learn to drive this car all over after getting boost on it, i am going to have to learn to drive this track again at higher speeds and having much harder acceleration. Its wise to be cautious at speeds over 120. Things happen really fast and road atlanta doesnt have good run off. You either hit something , you sink petty good, or you are beside a bunch of old tires that are full of rattlesnakes.

Increased power is good for all the track not just the straights. i am looking forward not having to shift as much.

I have the big pulley and injectors now dude! woo--hoo. I would say it did help a little
Also have poly MM on--gave me more "snap" for sure.
olddragger

 

blowing header collector gaskets--has anyone tried the "header buddy"?

GUYS GO TO THE SYNTHETIC OIL DISCUSSION AND SEE MY LAST POSTS--I AM SOLD ON DIESEL OIL FOR OUR CARS.
olddragger

 

Interesting you should say that - I found I was shifting way MORE after going FI .
That is because I was shifting earlier in the rev range . On a long straight I would reach 6th gear vs wound out to 9000rpm in 4th when NA .

 

Hitting a higher speed faster so needing those taller gears more often! Thats the trouble with 130 more hp...

 

there is one track i run Roebling Road in Savanna Ga in which the only time i have to shift in when i come out of the last turn before the long straight --come out of 4th to 5th and short shift to 6th. then back to 4th on a double apex turn # 1 then its 4th gear all the way through.
At Road Atlanta --this coming w/e will be my 1st time since install, but i believe i will only have to shift coming out of turn 7 (in third) to 4th 5th and 6trh on the long back straight-- to 3nd or 4th for turn 10 then to 4th( if needed) coming down the hill to turn 12 and that will be it. we will see

Every shift takes time away and upsets the braking and chassis balance.
besides i am lazy.
od

 

Sounds like its time for a 6 port Auto then lol

 

hehe--dont think so--maybe twin clutch!!
OD

 

You don't need anything near a twin clutch

A carbon/kevlar disc with a good PP will be lots for 350ish RWHP

Have a twin on a R32 Skyline..and that thing is a beatch to drive...especially if the booster fails

 

Hi Guys !!

I am looking for a knight sport front bumper dealer ?!
Does anyone know a website where I can go ?

Thanks

 

Japanparts.com they do monthly group buys as a vendor here,,,

 

...the car I just bought has an OBX header, and I'm getting a CEL, bank 1 O2 sensor.
The sensor is installed in one of the three header pipes, not in a common collector. I noticed the RE-Amemiya header is the same way. Is this throwing of the O2 readings? I'm getting ridiculously/impossibly lean readings on the COBB of up to 20:1 at cruise, and I know that can't be right.

 

I have gotten 17 to 1 at cruise, while pulling 22 inches of vacuum.

 

22 at cruise when you let off the throttle!!
i ran the header for a little while--didnt like it. np with it--just didnt care for it.
highest i get on a cruise is a 14.6 or 7
OD

 

Uh, I get 28 inches of vacuum when letting off the throttle.

 

im talking about the a/f's !
OD

 

Hey Rote8, next time your feeling frisky about building a CAI, look here for piping,,, I forgot about it the last time you mentioned it http://www.turbohoses.com/metal_piping.htm I had this bookmarked under my old MR2 links,,,

 

QUOTE=Rotr8;3147598]Sounds like its time for a 6 port Auto then lol[/QUOTE]

That's funny, I'm tacking at 3k at 90 and getting great mileage.

 

I didnt say there was anything wrong with a 6p-auto just Denny didnt feel like shiftin as much,,,

 

Yeah, and I think that (17 to 1) has to be the reason for the huge long term trims I have.
I may want to step up the P-1 or P-2 injectors slightly.

 

after running my "custom" lower intake for a little while--i think i can say that something happened. The dips when the ssv and apv's open-----all but gone---seriously---at least by the efi dude they are. Power? I dont know as I added the bigger pulley at the same time.
Will be data collecting at Road Atlanta this coming w/e.

Get this and it is the 1st time happening with me-----my LTFT's----are at 0 --thats zero.
Thats got to be good.

phenolic gasket did lower the lim intake surface temp by about 10 degrees.
Insulating the fuel rail has made a LOT of temp difference--before easily to get at 140F --now they are just a little warm--that has to be good?

i went a different route with the intake and just supplied coald air to the pettit's oridginal position.
So far so good --temps seem fine--air filter just at about ambient temp.

now if I can just solve this mazsport midpipe gasket between it and the header--all will be good-- i may even then vacuum the interior.
olddragger

 

more pics of what you did!

 

Have you tried the Fluid Motorsports spacers?

I think your midpipe is too short!
Aluminum spacer 1/4 inch thick, needs a gasket both sides, the spacer makes the pipe fit the space better. (The Mazsport pipe's a little short on some cars, leading to blown exhaust gaskets)
https://www.fluidmotorsports.com/p-93-exhaust.aspx

They have them for the front and rear, and you will also need 2 gaskets on either end of the pipe.
(2 gaskets and a spacer in the front; 2 gaskets and a spacer in the rear)

 

The question I have is how accurate is that front O2 sensor if it's only reading the exhaust from one port? The sensor is placed in only one section of pipe, the one that evacuates the rearmost port. I'm missing something, I know it; seems to obvious to be wrong, but other headers feed all three ports into a collector and the O2 sensor fits in that collector.

 

I have the stock manifold, my AEM sensor is in the AP midpipe rear position.

 

the obx header o2 position is Ok--it will give you accurate readings--it all mixes sooner than you think.

i was able to make a exhaust collector gasket out of a piece of home depo aluminum sheet that cradles the oem round gasket. took a hammer and chisel to do this. I will see how long it lasts.
midpipe is not too short. Motor moving too much---at least it was
OD