Pettit Super Charger Owners
07-15-2009, 09:40 PM
#5701
Tailgaters beware
I just sensed some sarcasm about how many engines they can blow and am used to people bashing others if they don't know as much as they do. If you didn't mean it sarcasticly then I appologize. I would really like to take a ride in one of the 300+ rwhp ones. Most of my experience is with big cars with v8s or a heavy MK III turbo supra, with them if you dont have 400 hp your not very quick. I think the Supra was 3700 lbs!
07-15-2009, 09:43 PM
#5702
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Lol, thanks. Everyone gets such attitudes on here. Point has been understood though, so 13 psi must be the max efficient psi because I think I saw a few that run that.
It is a pretty good sized sc being larger than our motor at 1.7 liters so I thought maybe it would be capable of a little higher psi and with the help of higher octane fuel to avoid detonation so as not to destroy our motors, thanks.
It is a pretty good sized sc being larger than our motor at 1.7 liters so I thought maybe it would be capable of a little higher psi and with the help of higher octane fuel to avoid detonation so as not to destroy our motors, thanks.
That lysholm unit can produce more than 13psi on our engines. It probably needs to exceed 20,000 rpms before you need to start being concerned. Lysholms excel above 1 bar due to internal compression, whereas Roots blowers are basically limited to 1 bar based on external compression characteristics. Bottom line, if you hooked-up an external oil feed for the SC, and went with something like pure methanol, or had lower compression it would be possible.
07-15-2009, 09:58 PM
#5703
Tailgaters beware
Cam does everything safe, clearly for his tastes what he's giving you guys is safe @ those boost numbers with that unit.
That lysholm unit can produce more than 13psi on our engines. It probably needs to exceed 20,000 rpms before you need to start being concerned. Lysholms excel above 1 bar due to internal compression, whereas Roots blowers are basically limited to 1 bar based on external compression characteristics. Bottom line, if you hooked-up an external oil feed for the SC, and went with something like pure methanol, or had lower compression it would be possible.
That lysholm unit can produce more than 13psi on our engines. It probably needs to exceed 20,000 rpms before you need to start being concerned. Lysholms excel above 1 bar due to internal compression, whereas Roots blowers are basically limited to 1 bar based on external compression characteristics. Bottom line, if you hooked-up an external oil feed for the SC, and went with something like pure methanol, or had lower compression it would be possible.
I do not want to destroy my motor but I am the type to give it a try at the track with race fuel and 16 psi pulley just to see my car in the low 12's possibly
I feel as though (if the drivetrain can hande it) at the 327 rwhp we might be able to squeeze a 12.8 on drag radials with a high 6000 rpm launch. I dont think I would want to try it more than once though.
07-15-2009, 10:04 PM
#5704
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Nice info...
I do not want to destroy my motor but I am the type to give it a try at the track with race fuel and 16 psi pulley just to see my car in the low 12's possibly I feel as though (if the drivetrain can hande it) at the 327 rwhp we might be able to squeeze a 12.8 on drag radials with a high 6000 rpm launch. I dont think I would want to try it more than once though.
I do not want to destroy my motor but I am the type to give it a try at the track with race fuel and 16 psi pulley just to see my car in the low 12's possibly
I feel as though (if the drivetrain can hande it) at the 327 rwhp we might be able to squeeze a 12.8 on drag radials with a high 6000 rpm launch. I dont think I would want to try it more than once though.
07-15-2009, 10:05 PM
#5705
hey Rocket dude--got news for ya--cam had gotten to a 13 flat with a low boost pulley. high boost can get you to a 12.5 IF you set your car up for the strip so you can get a good launch and not break anything. Drop in a 5 speed trans so you only have to shift 3 times and you are in the mid 12's no problem.
I am willing to bet that with more dragstrip specific mods i can get a 5inch pulley car in the low 12"s .
olddragger
I am willing to bet that with more dragstrip specific mods i can get a 5inch pulley car in the low 12"s .
olddragger
07-15-2009, 10:17 PM
#5709
Tailgaters beware
hey Rocket dude--got news for ya--cam had gotten to a 13 flat with a low boost pulley. high boost can get you to a 12.5 IF you set your car up for the strip so you can get a good launch and not break anything. Drop in a 5 speed trans so you only have to shift 3 times and you are in the mid 12's no problem.
I am willing to bet that with more dragstrip specific mods i can get a 5inch pulley car in the low 12"s .
olddragger
I am willing to bet that with more dragstrip specific mods i can get a 5inch pulley car in the low 12"s .
olddragger
As far as the road course, its nice to have a car that can eat-em up in the straights as well as the corners. Wouldn't you agree?
07-15-2009, 10:42 PM
#5710
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ok took her for a another short spin. This time decided to push her a little further...about 7.5k rpm. When I let off the gas the I felt a light pulse under my break pedal and then the car completely shut off. No power steering no brakes nothing. Pulled over started back up no problem. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Any ideas to this and my previous question? Thanks
07-16-2009, 10:26 AM
#5712
Macius
pulse under the brake peddle is the abs working? You may have an electrical issue because even if the engine quit you should still have power steering
when 1st driving the install to high rpm's it is not unusual for the engine to die at wot to idle--trims not done yet. Are you sure your fuel pump is good?
Hissing sound--all vacuum tubes etc attached correctly and sealed, oem one way valves on right?--its easy to get them mixed up.
Rocket dude --keep in mind that this chassis and drivetrane is not designed for the strip. I dont drag this car but i do have some history with other cars.
a 3K lb car with approx 400 hp at the flywheel(give or take a little) is capable of a mid 12 time. One of the problems with drag racing this car is the launch (look at the 60 ft times) and having to shift 3 times.
This car is a gem on the road circuit and that is what i do with her.
olddragger
pulse under the brake peddle is the abs working? You may have an electrical issue because even if the engine quit you should still have power steering
when 1st driving the install to high rpm's it is not unusual for the engine to die at wot to idle--trims not done yet. Are you sure your fuel pump is good?
Hissing sound--all vacuum tubes etc attached correctly and sealed, oem one way valves on right?--its easy to get them mixed up.
Rocket dude --keep in mind that this chassis and drivetrane is not designed for the strip. I dont drag this car but i do have some history with other cars.
a 3K lb car with approx 400 hp at the flywheel(give or take a little) is capable of a mid 12 time. One of the problems with drag racing this car is the launch (look at the 60 ft times) and having to shift 3 times.
This car is a gem on the road circuit and that is what i do with her.
olddragger
Last edited by olddragger; 07-16-2009 at 10:33 AM.
07-16-2009, 11:26 AM
#5713
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Macius
pulse under the brake peddle is the abs working? You may have an electrical issue because even if the engine quit you should still have power steering
when 1st driving the install to high rpm's it is not unusual for the engine to die at wot to idle--trims not done yet. Are you sure your fuel pump is good?
Hissing sound--all vacuum tubes etc attached correctly and sealed, oem one way valves on right?--its easy to get them mixed up.
olddragger
pulse under the brake peddle is the abs working? You may have an electrical issue because even if the engine quit you should still have power steering
when 1st driving the install to high rpm's it is not unusual for the engine to die at wot to idle--trims not done yet. Are you sure your fuel pump is good?
Hissing sound--all vacuum tubes etc attached correctly and sealed, oem one way valves on right?--its easy to get them mixed up.
olddragger
The engine died when I let off the gas, rpms dropped all the way to zero. It didn't die when I had my foot on the gas pedal.
I didn't touch the fuel pump. Was fine before. Could it be something with the fuel purge hose?
I will double check the vacuum tubes today, but I used hose clamps on everything, so that should be fine.
I didn't have the hissing and hesitation problem before I re flashed the pcm. Think it might be in the tune?
07-16-2009, 02:23 PM
#5714
Londons Yellow Peril
unlikely to be the tune unless they some how sent you a totally weird one by mistake.
More likely cross connected hoses or something loose or attached to wrong thing....
More likely cross connected hoses or something loose or attached to wrong thing....
07-16-2009, 04:07 PM
#5715
Registered
I don't think it would be the ABS. Why would it react, I did not slam on the brakes. I hope it's not a electrical problem.
The engine died when I let off the gas, rpms dropped all the way to zero. It didn't die when I had my foot on the gas pedal.
I didn't touch the fuel pump. Was fine before. Could it be something with the fuel purge hose?
I will double check the vacuum tubes today, but I used hose clamps on everything, so that should be fine.
I didn't have the hissing and hesitation problem before I re flashed the pcm. Think it might be in the tune?
The engine died when I let off the gas, rpms dropped all the way to zero. It didn't die when I had my foot on the gas pedal.
I didn't touch the fuel pump. Was fine before. Could it be something with the fuel purge hose?
I will double check the vacuum tubes today, but I used hose clamps on everything, so that should be fine.
I didn't have the hissing and hesitation problem before I re flashed the pcm. Think it might be in the tune?
Try the obvious first.
Check the brake vacuum booster.
There should be a one way valve, and the hose feeding the booster goes into the Pettit S/C intake manifold in the only hole tapped.
My "stock" brake booster tap is used by the methanol spray nozzle, I have drilled and tapped a new tap to the top of the intake right behind the throttle body. (both positions marked in Red)
Swoope, Where do you install the cat extension?
Last edited by Rote8; 10-16-2009 at 05:12 PM.
07-16-2009, 06:39 PM
#5716
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A/F Lean
OK, I plug my computer with hymee scanalyzer to reset the PCM because I had a CEL code : my A/F is lean...
I didn't understand...so I had a run with my computer pluged
(I should have done this with my Efi dude).
So in fact my A/F is NEVER Lean execept under 3000RPM...wich means It is not lean of I give at least a small touch to the accelerator... but idle & when I stop accelerating it goes full lean...
May I have your advice ?
I got a 255LPH fuel pump + clean fuel filter ... but I didn't yet install (crazy gas tank to open)..hopping it will help...
I didn't understand...so I had a run with my computer pluged
(I should have done this with my Efi dude).
So in fact my A/F is NEVER Lean execept under 3000RPM...wich means It is not lean of I give at least a small touch to the accelerator... but idle & when I stop accelerating it goes full lean...
May I have your advice ?
I got a 255LPH fuel pump + clean fuel filter ... but I didn't yet install (crazy gas tank to open)..hopping it will help...
07-16-2009, 06:42 PM
#5717
whines all the way home
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Mine is running lean as well,,
As for the 225 fuel pump if you plan on cracking the assembly be ready to order the o-ring retaining clamps, they're pretty pricey about $50,,,
As for the 225 fuel pump if you plan on cracking the assembly be ready to order the o-ring retaining clamps, they're pretty pricey about $50,,,
Last edited by Rotr8; 07-16-2009 at 06:45 PM.
07-16-2009, 07:10 PM
#5718
Tailgaters beware
Rocket dude --keep in mind that this chassis and drivetrane is not designed for the strip. I dont drag this car but i do have some history with other cars. a 3K lb car with approx 400 hp at the flywheel(give or take a little) is capable of a mid 12 time. One of the problems with drag racing this car is the launch (look at the 60 ft times) and having to shift 3 times.
This car is a gem on the road circuit and that is what i do with her.
olddragger
This car is a gem on the road circuit and that is what i do with her.
olddragger
07-16-2009, 09:51 PM
#5720
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Hey,
Try the obvious first.
Check the brake vacuum booster.
There should be a one way valve, and the hose feeding the booster goes into the Pettit S/C intake manifold in the only hole tapped.
My "stock" brake booster tap is used by the methanol spray nozzle, I have drilled and tapped a new tap to the top of the intake right behind the throttle body. (both positions marked in Red)
Swoope, Where do you install the cat extension?
Try the obvious first.
Check the brake vacuum booster.
There should be a one way valve, and the hose feeding the booster goes into the Pettit S/C intake manifold in the only hole tapped.
My "stock" brake booster tap is used by the methanol spray nozzle, I have drilled and tapped a new tap to the top of the intake right behind the throttle body. (both positions marked in Red)
Swoope, Where do you install the cat extension?
07-17-2009, 04:01 AM
#5721
Sounds like your putting boost into the Brake Booster (Funny irony!!)
It makes sense... If you left that one way valve off, then the reason you didn't have any brakes when the engine died was because there was no vacuum stored in the brake booster. Normally that one-way valve keeps a small resorviour of vacuum in the booster when the manifold is not in vacuum. I would suggest exactly the same thing would happen if you were NA and no one-way valve. It is only designed to allow air to be extracted from the booster, and not to let any in.
The reason you lost power steer was cause the engine died - that is normal.
As for the whistling sounds... Lots of things to start looking for.
I'm really interested in the hesitation on throttle tip in. I heard the Pettit cars did not have a problem in this area. It isn't because the blower needs power to spin it - it is already spinning. Would be interesting to learn more on this, and if in fact other Pettit guys have it as well. All comments on this would be welcomed, as I've told Cam I'll support his "Dude Tuned" customers in the future with sCANalyser Pro Tuner.
Cheers,
Mark.
It makes sense... If you left that one way valve off, then the reason you didn't have any brakes when the engine died was because there was no vacuum stored in the brake booster. Normally that one-way valve keeps a small resorviour of vacuum in the booster when the manifold is not in vacuum. I would suggest exactly the same thing would happen if you were NA and no one-way valve. It is only designed to allow air to be extracted from the booster, and not to let any in.
The reason you lost power steer was cause the engine died - that is normal.
As for the whistling sounds... Lots of things to start looking for.
I'm really interested in the hesitation on throttle tip in. I heard the Pettit cars did not have a problem in this area. It isn't because the blower needs power to spin it - it is already spinning. Would be interesting to learn more on this, and if in fact other Pettit guys have it as well. All comments on this would be welcomed, as I've told Cam I'll support his "Dude Tuned" customers in the future with sCANalyser Pro Tuner.
Cheers,
Mark.
Last edited by Hymee; 07-17-2009 at 06:25 AM.
07-17-2009, 04:05 AM
#5722
Registered
I do not think the valve came from Pettit, I think it is stock Mazda.
Can someone with a Normally aspirated 8 confirm that there is a metal check valve in the brake booster hose?
Macius8, The one way valve should allow air to flow from the brake booster, but not allow air to flow to the brake booster;AKA - vacuum to brake booster, but not to intake.
If you have ran the car without a valve, you have probably damaged the brake booster.
