Pettit Super Charger Owners
07-05-2009, 09:13 AM
#5576
welcome pettit owner--nice shop for the install. the harness mod is to insure proper lenght for the ig coil connectors and to remove some wiring from underneath the s.c. other correct me if i am wrong?
-hints other than the good ones already listed:
1- get rid of the pigtail oem ig coil ground (4 to one wore) use a pigger gauge wire to solder the coils grounds too and install a ring connector and then bolt to a good ground spot.
mazsport coils will die on you at some point and cause probs--happened to me. i went with the ls2--not the yukons--because the ls2 are more favorable to the oem coil dwell times which are
Re: RX-8 coils dwell
Volts Dwell
8 9.5
9 7.7
10 5.9
11 4.9
12 4.2
13 3.7
14 3.3
15 2.9
2- close off the jet air if i am not wrong its only purpose is to prevent "pooling" of the gas during idle. since the pettit system idles around 1200rpm it's purpose is mute? If you can get your intake off --then remove it altogether and use jb weild to smooth out the areas it was in--you will be glad.
3- disable the vad --we dont use it and once again if you can get the lower intake off ---close all that area up--it is NOT a prefect seal there.
4- use pry bar to adjust s.c. belt tension not the idler arm adjustment bolt---using that bolt can cause a slight misalignment.
5- check the big allen head bolt on the front of the s.c. pulley to make sure it is tight
6- you MAY want to do a remote oil filter--you dont have too but it does make it nicer
7- wrap the exhaust header --well. you can wrap it and then replace the aluminum oem shield on top of the wrap.
8-- I used the Moroso mustang s.c. a/w coolant tank--holds about a gallon--check my posts and you can get it through Summit Racing. You will have to fabricate a little shelf for it to set on. also drill a little vent hole in the cap.
9- you do have a water meth system---right?
10-- do cooling mods according to area of the country you live in (hot or cold)
11-- i use diesel oil for the engine 15/40w Valvoline blue--do some research.
12 do install an oil catch can especially if you are going to track
thats enough for now--hope this stuff can be of help to ya
-hints other than the good ones already listed:
1- get rid of the pigtail oem ig coil ground (4 to one wore) use a pigger gauge wire to solder the coils grounds too and install a ring connector and then bolt to a good ground spot.
mazsport coils will die on you at some point and cause probs--happened to me. i went with the ls2--not the yukons--because the ls2 are more favorable to the oem coil dwell times which are
Re: RX-8 coils dwell
Volts Dwell
8 9.5
9 7.7
10 5.9
11 4.9
12 4.2
13 3.7
14 3.3
15 2.9
2- close off the jet air if i am not wrong its only purpose is to prevent "pooling" of the gas during idle. since the pettit system idles around 1200rpm it's purpose is mute? If you can get your intake off --then remove it altogether and use jb weild to smooth out the areas it was in--you will be glad.
3- disable the vad --we dont use it and once again if you can get the lower intake off ---close all that area up--it is NOT a prefect seal there.
4- use pry bar to adjust s.c. belt tension not the idler arm adjustment bolt---using that bolt can cause a slight misalignment.
5- check the big allen head bolt on the front of the s.c. pulley to make sure it is tight
6- you MAY want to do a remote oil filter--you dont have too but it does make it nicer
7- wrap the exhaust header --well. you can wrap it and then replace the aluminum oem shield on top of the wrap.
8-- I used the Moroso mustang s.c. a/w coolant tank--holds about a gallon--check my posts and you can get it through Summit Racing. You will have to fabricate a little shelf for it to set on. also drill a little vent hole in the cap.
9- you do have a water meth system---right?
10-- do cooling mods according to area of the country you live in (hot or cold)
11-- i use diesel oil for the engine 15/40w Valvoline blue--do some research.
12 do install an oil catch can especially if you are going to track
thats enough for now--hope this stuff can be of help to ya
07-05-2009, 09:17 AM
#5577
oh by the way --i may go with the big pulley
With new injectors of coarse. I have to call Cam next week to se what he says--my only concern is how this will affect being on the track--if the exhaust ports etc can take this amount of boost for that long. X fingers.
olddragger
With new injectors of coarse. I have to call Cam next week to se what he says--my only concern is how this will affect being on the track--if the exhaust ports etc can take this amount of boost for that long. X fingers.olddragger
07-05-2009, 01:04 PM
#5578
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welcome pettit owner--nice shop for the install. the harness mod is to insure proper lenght for the ig coil connectors and to remove some wiring from underneath the s.c. other correct me if i am wrong?
-hints other than the good ones already listed:
1- get rid of the pigtail oem ig coil ground (4 to one wore) use a pigger gauge wire to solder the coils grounds too and install a ring connector and then bolt to a good ground spot.
mazsport coils will die on you at some point and cause probs--happened to me. i went with the ls2--not the yukons--because the ls2 are more favorable to the oem coil dwell times which are
Re: RX-8 coils dwell
Volts Dwell
8 9.5
9 7.7
10 5.9
11 4.9
12 4.2
13 3.7
14 3.3
15 2.9
2- close off the jet air if i am not wrong its only purpose is to prevent "pooling" of the gas during idle. since the pettit system idles around 1200rpm it's purpose is mute? If you can get your intake off --then remove it altogether and use jb weild to smooth out the areas it was in--you will be glad.
3- disable the vad --we dont use it and once again if you can get the lower intake off ---close all that area up--it is NOT a prefect seal there.
4- use pry bar to adjust s.c. belt tension not the idler arm adjustment bolt---using that bolt can cause a slight misalignment.
5- check the big allen head bolt on the front of the s.c. pulley to make sure it is tight
6- you MAY want to do a remote oil filter--you dont have too but it does make it nicer
7- wrap the exhaust header --well. you can wrap it and then replace the aluminum oem shield on top of the wrap.
8-- I used the Moroso mustang s.c. a/w coolant tank--holds about a gallon--check my posts and you can get it through Summit Racing. You will have to fabricate a little shelf for it to set on. also drill a little vent hole in the cap.
9- you do have a water meth system---right?
10-- do cooling mods according to area of the country you live in (hot or cold)
11-- i use diesel oil for the engine 15/40w Valvoline blue--do some research.
12 do install an oil catch can especially if you are going to track
thats enough for now--hope this stuff can be of help to ya
-hints other than the good ones already listed:
1- get rid of the pigtail oem ig coil ground (4 to one wore) use a pigger gauge wire to solder the coils grounds too and install a ring connector and then bolt to a good ground spot.
mazsport coils will die on you at some point and cause probs--happened to me. i went with the ls2--not the yukons--because the ls2 are more favorable to the oem coil dwell times which are
Re: RX-8 coils dwell
Volts Dwell
8 9.5
9 7.7
10 5.9
11 4.9
12 4.2
13 3.7
14 3.3
15 2.9
2- close off the jet air if i am not wrong its only purpose is to prevent "pooling" of the gas during idle. since the pettit system idles around 1200rpm it's purpose is mute? If you can get your intake off --then remove it altogether and use jb weild to smooth out the areas it was in--you will be glad.
3- disable the vad --we dont use it and once again if you can get the lower intake off ---close all that area up--it is NOT a prefect seal there.
4- use pry bar to adjust s.c. belt tension not the idler arm adjustment bolt---using that bolt can cause a slight misalignment.
5- check the big allen head bolt on the front of the s.c. pulley to make sure it is tight
6- you MAY want to do a remote oil filter--you dont have too but it does make it nicer
7- wrap the exhaust header --well. you can wrap it and then replace the aluminum oem shield on top of the wrap.
8-- I used the Moroso mustang s.c. a/w coolant tank--holds about a gallon--check my posts and you can get it through Summit Racing. You will have to fabricate a little shelf for it to set on. also drill a little vent hole in the cap.
9- you do have a water meth system---right?
10-- do cooling mods according to area of the country you live in (hot or cold)
11-- i use diesel oil for the engine 15/40w Valvoline blue--do some research.
12 do install an oil catch can especially if you are going to track
thats enough for now--hope this stuff can be of help to ya
HI !!!
you didn't talk of the fuel pump
to give some news I finished everything thanks to the all of you
my car idle and is much more powerfull then ever...I totally smoked a audi s3on 1/4 miles
now I only need to change my fuel filter (I got it but I am going to borrow the Opener Tool) because my system run lean under 6k RPM
I still have all my sensor in place ....
but I was wondering about bying those parts (laile the brand) :
thise one for cooling the engine bay:
under panel
those one because the autoexe are too much heavy
REAR PERFORMANCE BAR
P.P.F. PERFORMANCE BAR
need your advices
thanks
07-05-2009, 01:54 PM
#5579
whines all the way home
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The tranny brace is a nice track day addition, but be warned it transfers all the vibration and noise from the powertain to the frame, it is just about the loudest and most annoying thing you could imagine, after I put mine on and drove it a couple blocks I thought my car was falling apart. I turned right back around and took it off, it is great for a track not great or needed for DD....
You might want to look into ordering the Pettit secondary rads that are built into the floor pan,,,
You might want to look into ordering the Pettit secondary rads that are built into the floor pan,,,
07-05-2009, 02:38 PM
#5580
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I saw some picts that some of the club members put the intercooler on the underpanel ... wondering about water ?!
I like the Laile underpanel because I really need to cool down my engine temps
07-05-2009, 06:08 PM
#5583
Londons Yellow Peril
Speaking of greed; Have you tried nitromethane in methanol injection? (Yes, no water)
It leans the air fuel mixture and adds octane. (be sure you have no leaks first, as this stuff is extremely flammable; and burns invisible too.)
....
It will wear spark plug tips !!! (and probably apex seals)
It leans the air fuel mixture and adds octane. (be sure you have no leaks first, as this stuff is extremely flammable; and burns invisible too.)
....
It will wear spark plug tips !!! (and probably apex seals)
I love the idea of adding high explosive flammable invisible stuff to my hot engine bay! (no 'get rid of the petrol then' jokes please)
07-05-2009, 07:41 PM
#5584
Registered
Like I said, I do not run it every day, but for a little extra kick, it works.
07-06-2009, 11:50 AM
#5585
Tailgaters beware
"Safe" boost is 0 psi 
Sane is between 5 and 8
The larger crank pulley for the Pettit kit can make 13 to 15.
What is safe for your engine totally depends on your tune.
Too little fuel or too much timing advance for your amount of boost will cause detonation, which kills apex seals very fast.
Sane is between 5 and 8
The larger crank pulley for the Pettit kit can make 13 to 15.
What is safe for your engine totally depends on your tune.
Too little fuel or too much timing advance for your amount of boost will cause detonation, which kills apex seals very fast.
Hymee do you have a rear wheel hp dyno? I'm still not sure what our loss is exactly to the tires (guessing 17%).
07-06-2009, 11:58 AM
#5586
Registered
I understand too rich, too lean and detonation. I was meaning with a proper tune on 93 octane and no methanol injection what would the max daily drivin boost be on our motors with the pettit? I have seen some people with 12 psi making 327 rwhp and 217 tq but his info says he has methanol. I dont know if it was being used but do you guys think it would be fine to run 12 psi daily? I see Hymee runs 13 psi and I like the kit but Its a little more expensive and much more involved for an install so I wanted to keep it a little simpler for me to install it myself.
Hymee do you have a rear wheel hp dyno? I'm still not sure what our loss is exactly to the tires (guessing 17%).
Hymee do you have a rear wheel hp dyno? I'm still not sure what our loss is exactly to the tires (guessing 17%).
I think Hymee's kit uses the same blower (as Pettit) with an air to air inter-cooler, where the Pettit kit is water to air.
The Hymee kit is gorgeous, with nice billet parts, and the stock engine cover still fits.
There are three of us in the Central Florida area running the Pettit kit with the high boost pulley.
We do not "tune for methanol", Juan's methanol kills some power.
The real advantage to methanol is when you are in a hot dyno room; we use methanol on the street as insurance.
Sometimes gas station owner's fill the 93 octane under ground tank with 87 octane fuel.
Last edited by Rote8; 07-06-2009 at 12:15 PM.
07-06-2009, 12:03 PM
#5587
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I really need to find a way to cool down my engine bay because I did 2 1/4miles run and I ahd to stop it to let it get cooler...I live in a very hot country (caribbean islands)
07-06-2009, 05:17 PM
#5588
hey what island--i lived in Jamaica for a number of years in the 70's?
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.
Rocketman- i dont know max boost--i do know we use the w/m for the reason already said,, insure octane and cooling of the intake charge temps(much different than the intake temps as you probably already know). it also helps to keep the carbon at bay.
I guess it depends on what you want. i track a fair amount so at present even though my temps are really good(coolant/oil and intake charge) i dont know how the much the exhaust port would heat up with more boost. Waiting on Cam to get back with me. I get a 305 grams/ sec on the maf at 80F ambient temp at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear and i have enough power to keep me busy! So for now just running the smallest pulley
hope this helps.
olddragger
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.
Rocketman- i dont know max boost--i do know we use the w/m for the reason already said,, insure octane and cooling of the intake charge temps(much different than the intake temps as you probably already know). it also helps to keep the carbon at bay.
I guess it depends on what you want. i track a fair amount so at present even though my temps are really good(coolant/oil and intake charge) i dont know how the much the exhaust port would heat up with more boost. Waiting on Cam to get back with me. I get a 305 grams/ sec on the maf at 80F ambient temp at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear and i have enough power to keep me busy! So for now just running the smallest pulley
hope this helps.
olddragger
07-06-2009, 05:32 PM
#5589
whines all the way home
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That is an extremely generic and highly inaccurate series of clip art I would not put any merrit in any of that,,,
but if you must get an underpanel check out Fluids,,, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/fluid-motorsports-bracing-input-needed-163405/page4/
but if you must get an underpanel check out Fluids,,, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/fluid-motorsports-bracing-input-needed-163405/page4/
07-06-2009, 05:55 PM
#5590
thanks for the link--underbody paneling may be a good thing if done right?
here is a link to a friends vid at Road Atlanta--watch the gearshift and you can see how much driveline movement there is on a NA car!! We need help?
here is a vid link showing the movement watch the gearshift at the lower part of the screen--you may be surprised.
http://garx8club.com/v3/viewtopic.ph...tart=30#p56236
OD
OD
here is a link to a friends vid at Road Atlanta--watch the gearshift and you can see how much driveline movement there is on a NA car!! We need help?
here is a vid link showing the movement watch the gearshift at the lower part of the screen--you may be surprised.
http://garx8club.com/v3/viewtopic.ph...tart=30#p56236
OD
OD
07-06-2009, 10:02 PM
#5594
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Well I think I finished all the wiring harness modifications but I managed to **** something up before. I broke one of the studs that holds the alternator bracket. It still supports the bracket but I cant get the nut on it anymore. Will post pictures tomorrow, forgot to take a camera with me. Do you think it'll hold with two studs? If not, what would you recommend on fixing this. Would easy-outs do the trick or should I just drill it out and re-tap the hole and thread in a new stud. Totally my fault, top one came out no problem, bottom one was tight, had a long extension on the wrench, yanked it, large bending moment I guess and crack there goes the stud. Anyways will work on this tomorrow, but any help appreciated.
Just to be sure I can skip the air temp mod since I'll be flashing my car, correct? Bought my kit used and no harness provided.
Also does anyone have some conservative maps for the pro tuner, and is willing to share? I will have a base boost map from Hymee, but I would rather start with something more related to this system.
Thanks
Just to be sure I can skip the air temp mod since I'll be flashing my car, correct? Bought my kit used and no harness provided.
Also does anyone have some conservative maps for the pro tuner, and is willing to share? I will have a base boost map from Hymee, but I would rather start with something more related to this system.
Thanks
07-06-2009, 10:10 PM
#5596
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Do you think it'll come out? No crazy locktite on it? Will give it a shot. Man easiest way out and it didn't even cross my mind.
Do you know what size is btw? Can I get it at a local hardware store?
Do you know what size is btw? Can I get it at a local hardware store?
07-07-2009, 12:38 AM
#5597
Cheers,
Hymee.
07-07-2009, 12:43 AM
#5598
Tailgaters beware
Both supercharger kits should make about the same power, it is all in the tune.
I think Hymee's kit uses the same blower (as Pettit) with an air to air inter-cooler, where the Pettit kit is water to air.
The Hymee kit is gorgeous, with nice billet parts, and the stock engine cover still fits.
There are three of us in the Central Florida area running the Pettit kit with the high boost pulley.
We do not "tune for methanol", Juan's methanol kills some power.
The real advantage to methanol is when you are in a hot dyno room; we use methanol on the street as insurance.
Sometimes gas station owner's fill the 93 octane under ground tank with 87 octane fuel.
I think Hymee's kit uses the same blower (as Pettit) with an air to air inter-cooler, where the Pettit kit is water to air.
The Hymee kit is gorgeous, with nice billet parts, and the stock engine cover still fits.
There are three of us in the Central Florida area running the Pettit kit with the high boost pulley.
We do not "tune for methanol", Juan's methanol kills some power.
The real advantage to methanol is when you are in a hot dyno room; we use methanol on the street as insurance.
Sometimes gas station owner's fill the 93 octane under ground tank with 87 octane fuel.
07-07-2009, 01:11 AM
#5599
It should come out relatively OK....others have done it recently