Pettit Super Charger Owners
Registered
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, Arizona
I haven't blown anything up yet. My motor has @90k, 20k of which have been boosted. I've used 4 different engine management systems(including our OE computer) on my SC kit w/ tunes from so rich you couldn't breathe to so lean I've had to back out of the throttle because of detonation.
I am now on the 7th version of my own personal map. After 3 hours of work the first night I had a map that idles better than maps I have received from supposed experts, not to mention STFT and LTFT were dead on accurate.
Either tuning is easier than the "experts" would have you believe, or I am just really lucky I haven't smoked my **** yet.
On second thought, I must be lucky.
I am now on the 7th version of my own personal map. After 3 hours of work the first night I had a map that idles better than maps I have received from supposed experts, not to mention STFT and LTFT were dead on accurate.
Either tuning is easier than the "experts" would have you believe, or I am just really lucky I haven't smoked my **** yet.
On second thought, I must be lucky.
I'm not nearly as far along as you, but I also had idle problems with the AP tune I had. Since the Accesstuner Race software came out, I was also able to fix this myself and its turning out to not be too difficult. I am definitely no expert.
Registered
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Thats funny, no more you cant tune that way and YOUR KILLING YOUR POOR car crap. Ive heard alot about how the 13B is a better motor bacause you can turbocharge it. From what ive seen the renissis is a stronger motor if you dont over heat it. I heard some pings, not on my car but on the early testing of the rennisis that would destroy apex seals on a center port motor and 
parts out the turbo.
parts out the turbo.
Thread Starter
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 2
From: Sin City, Nevada
I'm looking to add three more gauges to my set and have been looking for that center dash mount that could have been used with the Nav system. I can't find it anywhere. Is there anyone here that knows where I can find it?
whines all the way home
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,402
Likes: 2
From: Towson/Baltimore, MD
Its from AutoExe,, herea link to japanparts there are other gauge setups too...
http://www.japanparts.com/db/partsli...dle=2&small=10
http://www.japanparts.com/db/partsli...dle=2&small=10
Thread Starter
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 2
From: Sin City, Nevada
Its from AutoExe,, herea link to japanparts there are other gauge setups too...
http://www.japanparts.com/db/partsli...dle=2&small=10
http://www.japanparts.com/db/partsli...dle=2&small=10
well i redid the idler pulley assembly mating some of the oem parts to ours. its better.
on a free spin test is spins much easier and the pressure on the race /bearing is much more evenly done.
See if yall can figure it all out.
OD
on a free spin test is spins much easier and the pressure on the race /bearing is much more evenly done.
See if yall can figure it all out.
OD
Dongbag extrordinare
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 0
From: Away from the fruits of my labor
I'm getting much closer to a good map.....I think. I figured out how to get 20+mpg while cruising@80 on the hwy. I've gotten 240 miles on 13gal. That is mostly city/some hwy. I'd like to see what I can get w/out doing any WOT runs, but you guys know how it is.
Oh, I need to drive it this week on the latest version to be sure, but my LTFT is dead 0.
Oh, I need to drive it this week on the latest version to be sure, but my LTFT is dead 0.
uh---i am getting 22-23 on the road(interstate 70mph with a/c on)around town 16-17
driving normally. most of the time this is out of boost. But into boost when passing etc.
olddragger
driving normally. most of the time this is out of boost. But into boost when passing etc.
olddragger
+1
Denny,
Please take a digital picture taking and posting 101 please. Some of us need to see it in order to appreciate/understand. Is kinda like reading **** and watching ****. I don’t know about the rest of yall but watching is better. Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face.
Denny,
Please take a digital picture taking and posting 101 please. Some of us need to see it in order to appreciate/understand. Is kinda like reading **** and watching ****. I don’t know about the rest of yall but watching is better. Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face.
+1
Denny,
Please take a digital picture taking and posting 101 please. Some of us need to see it in order to appreciate/understand. Is kinda like reading **** and watching ****. I don’t know about the rest of yall but watching is better. Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face.
Denny,
Please take a digital picture taking and posting 101 please. Some of us need to see it in order to appreciate/understand. Is kinda like reading **** and watching ****. I don’t know about the rest of yall but watching is better. Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face.
ok post a pic of THAT 
and I will post a pic of mine!
jk will try tomorrow night--no promises. i am almost out of medication.
Ok --
basically you have to:
1-widen the gap in the idler pulley mount so the oem pulley shaft fits well
2- flip the Pettit pulley around--the back is now the front--
3-, take the oem pulley rod/axle/nut combo and spacer then add 2 washers to the back part --between spacer and mount bar,
4-file the oem nut retainer/shaft thing down just a little so the retaining clip eyes (that hold the bearing in the pulley) clears when it rotates
5- make sure it lines up ok
and there you have it.
the front oem nut axle/shaft combo has a small protrusion/space that matches the inner bearing race perfectly on the front part as so does the back and thats the key for a better rotation.
ours matches the back part great but that washer on the front does drag just a little.
while you have the wheel off--paint or powder coat it!
there you have it--another tech secret from the Adams backyard dog squirrels racing team.
OD
and I will post a pic of mine!jk will try tomorrow night--no promises. i am almost out of medication.
Ok --
basically you have to:
1-widen the gap in the idler pulley mount so the oem pulley shaft fits well
2- flip the Pettit pulley around--the back is now the front--
3-, take the oem pulley rod/axle/nut combo and spacer then add 2 washers to the back part --between spacer and mount bar,
4-file the oem nut retainer/shaft thing down just a little so the retaining clip eyes (that hold the bearing in the pulley) clears when it rotates
5- make sure it lines up ok
and there you have it.
the front oem nut axle/shaft combo has a small protrusion/space that matches the inner bearing race perfectly on the front part as so does the back and thats the key for a better rotation.
ours matches the back part great but that washer on the front does drag just a little.
while you have the wheel off--paint or powder coat it!
there you have it--another tech secret from the Adams backyard dog squirrels racing team.
OD
ok post a pic of THAT and I will post a pic of mine!
jk will try tomorrow night--no promises. i am almost out of medication.
Ok --
basically you have to:
1-widen the gap in the idler pulley mount so the oem pulley shaft fits well
2- flip the Pettit pulley around--the back is now the front--
3-, take the oem pulley rod/axle/nut combo and spacer then add 2 washers to the back part --between spacer and mount bar,
4-file the oem nut retainer/shaft thing down just a little so the retaining clip eyes (that hold the bearing in the pulley) clears when it rotates
5- make sure it lines up ok
and there you have it.
the front oem nut axle/shaft combo has a small protrusion/space that matches the inner bearing race perfectly on the front part as so does the back and thats the key for a better rotation.
ours matches the back part great but that washer on the front does drag just a little.
while you have the wheel off--paint or powder coat it!
there you have it--another tech secret from the Adams backyard dog squirrels racing team.
OD
and I will post a pic of mine!jk will try tomorrow night--no promises. i am almost out of medication.
Ok --
basically you have to:
1-widen the gap in the idler pulley mount so the oem pulley shaft fits well
2- flip the Pettit pulley around--the back is now the front--
3-, take the oem pulley rod/axle/nut combo and spacer then add 2 washers to the back part --between spacer and mount bar,
4-file the oem nut retainer/shaft thing down just a little so the retaining clip eyes (that hold the bearing in the pulley) clears when it rotates
5- make sure it lines up ok
and there you have it.
the front oem nut axle/shaft combo has a small protrusion/space that matches the inner bearing race perfectly on the front part as so does the back and thats the key for a better rotation.
ours matches the back part great but that washer on the front does drag just a little.
while you have the wheel off--paint or powder coat it!
there you have it--another tech secret from the Adams backyard dog squirrels racing team.
OD
