OD, I called my supplier but after looking at Juan's post I am thinkinhg that he might have "The Hookup".

 

Ok--so that would be the better route?
OD

 

For now I am thinking so. If his is as good as the ones I can get that is one Helluva price! They look damned similar except mine is nice and shiny. OOOOOhhhhh.

 

For the self-initiated, the valve in the Pettit Kit is the Bosch #0280142102. This valve is used in many German/Euro applications and one of the first things these owners do is replace them with a billet upgrade. There are several sources available;

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/496175...di_porsche_vw/

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/ebdv18-s.htm

http://www.supremepowerparts.com/pro...x?prod_id=5643

 

Ding! Yes. Just way faster transition from Vacuum to Boost.

 

My 2001 Kawasaki ZX12R Radiator turn into a SC Intercooler Heat Exchanger Project

Take a look at my second project of the day…Sweeeeet!

Total cost $52 for the radiator and total with materials @ $75

 

Took my car for a drive (30 miles roundtrip) and here is what I logged.

81 degrees Amb Temp
60 MPH
106 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
183 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
65 MPH
106 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
183 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
70 MPH
106 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
183 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
75 MPH
107 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
185 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
80 MPH
108 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
188 degrees Engine Temp

 

Were the temps significant;y different before?
What happens when you stand on it?

 

The biggest difference (my son pointed it out) is that my engine temps are a whole lot lower and they crazy drop down after a session of drive it like you stole it mode. Keep in mind that my car has a BHR radiator. I think that the old SC Heat Exchanger was considerably reducing the airflow to the radiator.

Take a look at the video my son took (sorry no sound) while driving from 0 to 132 MPH. Pay attention to the boost (8.3), the steady climb of the IAT and Engine Temp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NSm2mmJ0t0

 

They are about the same but the water flow is (I think) about twice faster than before. The ZX12R radiator inlet/outlet dia are 1 inch reduced to a piece of 3/4 hose to the stock 5/8 hose.

 

Airflow through the rad is everything.
I just yanked my Koyo out and put the OE rad back in and saw a dramatic drop in coolant temps.

Your ambient temps are still too low for a real test - especially with that east-coast humidity.
I'll be interested to see the results when your ambient temps are in the upper 90's.

As far as IATs go, that is still high for an intercooled setup at speed, though not unexpected because of the blower outlet temps and the A/W saturation rate.

 

Take a look at my logger readings and notice the steady climb and descend of the engine water temperatures.

 

My next AutoX is next week (May 18) and I’ll post more data after the event.

 

Any further BHR parts development for Pettit S/C kits will be by special order only.

 

I would like to place a special order. A reni 20b please. Oh yeah do you think I can have it by sunday I want to give it to my wife for mothers day.

 

on the serious side whats the status of the coil upgrade kit.

 

Does the bypass valve on the S/C kit vent back into the MAF housing?

 

It’s that all? To me it equates to taking my wife out for dinner at Taco Smell and giving her gumball machine jewelry. How about adding a BHRs Heat Exchanger upgrade, SC Pulley Kit upgrade and to top it off a BHR Radiator. Now THAT will make her real happy plus mega points for an upcoming night with the guys at the local strip joint. Needless to say you will be waking up in the morning a much happier man.

 

Nope. It vents to the back of the supercharger (pre-compress) area.

 

Juan. Are you going to try some of the springs with your new valve?? As you allready know, Phil is reporting 13-14lbs. I'm excited(and I hope others are also) to possibly learn this is reproducible by simply changing the valve.

 

Juan you read my mind but that list is my father's day list. I would just be adding the Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD07 275 30 18 all the way around. You now we need rubber for protection. lol

 

Nice!

Oh! and also to keep the gene pool safe.

 

Nope. Phil is running 13-14lbs because he has a 4 port engine and it was explained right after he posted those figures.

I talked to Cam and he explained to me that the reason for not loading a spring is to led some of the compressed air bleed back into the blower while cruising thus keeping the engine temps down, compressor noise down and it also saves fuel. Once you step on the gas the valve shuts immediately regardless if you have as spring installed or not.

 

Hahahahaha I have to give it to you you got me with that one. I totally understand the not wanting to have a squadron of "MuNcH-E"s running aroud.

 

substained high speed driving is the real test here --not a sprint .Although very useful and good info you really need to get on track to verify the cooling capacity while you have good air flow. City driving is another story.
Juan have you upgraded the water pump? It does make a difference. The coolant temps are not in range with really hard driving--you need to be at about 210f for that.
All this is without the w/m system---right?
Curious ---what is too high intake temp? What range are we speaking off and why?
oh by the way just picked up a turboxs bypass valve(bosch replacement type) at Summit---i had coupons!!! To install along with a new fuel pump tonight. new fuel pump just for the hell of it.
OD