Pettit Super Charger Owners
Juan flogged his rad pretty good at an autocross event or two and was happy/impressed. Phil has reported liking what he sees/experiences with not only the A/T version but also my new intercooler(which Denny will be flogging at RR for me next week. I'll be there with my kids.) Chickenwafer was doing a bit of mountain-running in Phoenix with weather in the mid-90s and he says the temps never got above 194-195. 09 Factor was the first(A/T w Greddy) install and we both immediately noticed how much air the factory fans will move if given the chance. 09 also measured the fan cycle frequency/length and both were cut in half. Further, the Koyo rad has no warranty and my warranty is as good as it gets. I am on my 4th or 5th version as I keep trying to accomodate newer turbo kits. Those front mount kits that run the charge piping through the core support were a real headache and I ate a few rads in the process of making the changes. Maybe I should make them into instant beer chillers by using a CO2 intercooler sprayer and running the beer through the old rads.
Thanks for asking, Moon, I appreciate being given the space in a thread that isn't about BHR at all.
Thanks for asking, Moon, I appreciate being given the space in a thread that isn't about BHR at all.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; May 8, 2008 at 09:45 PM.
Not dragging my feet, crawl, walk, run. Do 1 thing at a time then test. Im looking at whats going to break first. If I get 100,000 miles on my motor I had the best bang for the buck, not buck ($$) after bang.
Option A Price of car + kit = $$$
Option B Price of car + kit + pullys + maybe a motor or 2 = alot more $$$
I dont want to be the one to take the risk. After I see atleast 40,000 miles on a motor with the pullys I might consider them myself, till then im opting for other options.
Option B Price of car + kit + pullys + maybe a motor or 2 = alot more $$$
I dont want to be the one to take the risk. After I see atleast 40,000 miles on a motor with the pullys I might consider them myself, till then im opting for other options.
I appreciate your sentiments, Moon. I can assure you that Jeff is not a "hater" and he didn't build a supercharger simply because he has a different opinion on what the proper application is for a rotary. In the same vein, I am motivated to develop parts for BHR that, in my own opinion, are superior in quality to what is out there now. If I can't improve on a particular design I will try and create an equal for lower cost. As such, I have to follow what my own principles dictate. Jeff is the same way. What would people say if I installed a Pettit Kit on my own car while also being involved in the design of a BHR turbo kit? It might just happen....ya never know, as I am known for doing some wacky stuff. Have you seen the BHR pajamas and new shop location yet? Look at the pix in the BHR Product Line thread of the shop Jeff and I "opened" and tell me he's a "hater".

i wanna see this....
... wheres my camera?
Food for thought if tweaking is going to be taking place because of new compressor units.
I volunteer to sell my used compressor and pay the difference to go with a bigger unit. Since the kit will be temporaraly on the drawing board again.
I volunteer to sell my used compressor and pay the difference to go with a bigger unit. Since the kit will be temporaraly on the drawing board again.
BTW - While I was in Miami last week, I got a ROM dump from one of your, shall we say, less-than-satisfied customers. I'll let you guess which one.
Interesting stuff you guys are "tuning" with.
So ---how many lbs of boost are most getting?
Have new bypass valve on the way---thanks Phil.
By the way i cant wait to feel the "pull" once i mount my 40lb wheel/tire--24 and some tenths tall hoosier/track setup. final gear ratio is just slightly under the 4.77 gears people speak off. I think it is going to remind me of "the good ole days"
Welcome back Baby!
OD
Have new bypass valve on the way---thanks Phil.
By the way i cant wait to feel the "pull" once i mount my 40lb wheel/tire--24 and some tenths tall hoosier/track setup. final gear ratio is just slightly under the 4.77 gears people speak off. I think it is going to remind me of "the good ole days"
Welcome back Baby!
OD
while we are on it---has anyone looked at how much the engine moves now while in neutral and giving it full throttle?---with the history of weak oem motormounts maybe it is time for an engine torque damper?
olddragger
olddragger
I am in the process of putting my factory mounts back in my car so I can engineer improvements to them, just like I do everything else. A very simple and inexpensive one, at that. BTW, I don't believe the factory mounts are "weak" per se, they just have one demand made upon them for which they are not designed. A bit cryptic, I know, but you'll see what I mean if I can ever get my Mazsport mounts off my car.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; May 9, 2008 at 10:13 AM.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/fi-discussion-thread-boost-atheists-133360/page6/
Its easier to talk openly about stuff like this over there without all the fanbois nonsense.

The AccessPORT corrects this easily, so I don't see why the EFIDude flash couldn't. I guess they might not know how, which is not surprising.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; May 9, 2008 at 11:21 AM.
My new eBay $65 bypass valve report:
Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis.
Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis.
Last edited by marsredr100; May 9, 2008 at 12:30 PM.
Lets not forget this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=133360&page=6
Its easier to talk openly about stuff like this over there without all the fanbois nonsense.

The AccessPORT corrects this easily, so I don't see why the EFIDude flash couldn't. I guess they might not know how, which is not surprising.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=133360&page=6
Its easier to talk openly about stuff like this over there without all the fanbois nonsense.

The AccessPORT corrects this easily, so I don't see why the EFIDude flash couldn't. I guess they might not know how, which is not surprising.
Hope you've been switching arms.
Last edited by Bastage; May 9, 2008 at 01:21 PM.
My new eBay $65 bypass valve report:
Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis.
Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis.



