Can you send me a link?

 

http://www.mazdamaniac.com

 

tryed going to the site 2wice and recieved an error.

 

If you shut the car off for a minute or 2 the heat soak is bad enough to show high degree heat increase due to heatsoak. It stabalizes in a minute or so. I also noticed the air temp go up ten degrees at idle in about a minute. If you rev it up a little it drops very quickly.

 

Does your computer have Flash?

That is pretty much every car on the road.
That isn't "heat soak". That is just lack of airflow in the engine compartment.
Heat soak manifests itself mostly in coolant temps.

 

Heat soak is somtimes caused by lack of airflow. Any time radiant heat from the engine or exaust is involved it would be considered heat soak. Also we are using a water to air I/C setup wich uses coolent.

 

You don't really listen to me, do you?
I mean, I put up some information, and you come back with these sort of half-aimed responses like you only want to work on one part of the data and not the other.
I'm not sure if its me or you I guess.
The responses I put here seem coherent to me and whoever I show them to, but what you come back with seems like you only see part of it.

In any case, using coolant for and air-water intercooler makes it an air water inter-heater.
You do realize that your coolant temps are typically 40 to 100 degrees above your charge temps, right?

 

Im not going to argue with you, thats not what im here for. Yes I do use coolent, engine ice to be spacific, in both systems. 1st system is for cooling the engine wich I think you were reffering to me using for the intercooler or the proper term, aftercooler wich originated on diesals. Theres a completey different system for the I/C wich includes a front mounted heat exchanger, electric pump and misc hoses. I said coolent because the fluid used is the same and they both are used for cooling.

 

I'm not arguing. Actually, I wish you would. But it seems like a lot of information is left out of your posts to cause them to be ambiguous and somewhat baiting.
I understand that English is not your first language (its not mine, either), but I'm trying to be helpful and you are just sorta jacking whatever I say.
This is especially bothersome because I don't need to repeat myself here - I've already done the legwork elsewhere - but I want to try to make sens of what you are doing.

 

Sorry, im on edge at the moment, seems to be medication, pain and frusteration induced. I reed you were saying that it seems the primary injectors duty cycle are near maxing out before the first shutter valve opens. Im thinking since I have a 4 port and the idea was planted in my head by tdiddy to rewire the signals that go to the 5 and 6 port injectors to avoid the interferrance youve been talking about in your other thread. That or disconnect the primarys and tune them in using the Airflow map then wirring the secondarys to finish the tune above 3600 RPMs. Like I mentioned before im having problems with the fuel trim and my only other solution is open loop because the O2 dongle dosnt seem to help at all. My ECU is missing the center plug wich the 6 port contains. PS this is why im medicated

 

ouch.

it kind of looks like a rack and pinion steering rack though.

 

I don't tune ANYTHING with the airflow map. I just use it to trim the adjusted load as seen by the PCM to keep it out of the CAT-protect range.

I didn't realize you had a 4-port motor. You are a bit limited in the possible choices for configuring the EMU.
Easiest way is to leave it setup more or less the way the upgrade kit is wired with the sub-injectors driving the secondaries. However, I'd re-wire the chan 1 - 4 injector control for intercept.
The WBO2S dongle is on the NVCS channels as is the secondary ports, so they are tied to the same map.

 

I new the doctors scewed up, you here of them leaving frorcepts in but this is ridiculas.

 

Im going to try from scatch on the tune. Ill 0 out the airflow maps to start with.

 

Take a look at the MAP on my site as well as the prints of the various Int-X tunes that are posted around here.
More importantly, look at the injector spreadsheet I have in my "Math" thread.
You should compute all of your injector pulse widths before you start tuning and get baseline runs of what the OEM PCM does on its own as well.

The airflow MAP should only be used to fine-tune the way the PCM sees load - don't use it to directly adjust pulse width while under load.

 

For some reason ive lost control of everthing. It sees map trace but dosnt register any changes to the maps. Does lighter fluid and a match give you an idea

 

I looked at your maps, and I get the idea.

 

Are you tuning with duty cycle of pulse width? Have you computed the target pulse widths for all of the load points before you started tuning?
Have you done any baseline runs without boost to see what the PCM is doing for injector pulse width on its own?

If you are tuning with duty cycle, stop. It isn't reliable and it really doesn't tell you anything.

Go to this thread and use the spreadsheets:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rotary-math-106294/

If they don't make sense to you in an absolutely intuitive way, stop tuning and get that stuff under your belt because you are only headed towards disappointment.

 

OK, regained control, running great. Lets see if it holds the tune.

 

i am starting to see some love in this thread.

moon. you doing any better?

beers

 

Some what. I just cant do anything crazy Cant play with machines, infact shouldnt be driving even.

 

I need someone to do stock testing, mines to far from stock and the parts like my intake are shreaded.

 

wana see what a propane tank does to a rx-8 when you set it off

 

Ok, started by zeroing my injector maps, sub and primary. Zeroed the air flow maps also. timing in boost is timing 1, -15 2 -12. Very safe timming for 5 pounds. Both reseats were done on the stock ECU. Started the car, still worm, cool running like a rolex, great pull out of the driveway and hit it 12 A/F in first great, 12.5 in 2nd, nice same in 3rd and 4th to redline, the most solid ive ever seen. OK turn around and lets see how long it stays stable. 10 to 15 miles no problems, perfect mix, factory feel, no glitches then WTF rich again, 10 to 15.5 til 6400 rpms were it goes 12.5. What the f&%k is going on, from a zero tune it runs better then ever then it goes fat. PLEASE GOD WHY IS THIS HAPPINING.

 

Gonna take a wildass guess here: Because its not very simple to fool the ECU. We've been trying for years. MM has done by far the best of anyone, but its not easy.