Sorry, I meant #13.
Yeah, the fans didn't come on and the engine temp gauge never left minimum.
It also didn't have an accurate reading.
This is only with v2.0 software. It worked correctly with the old software.

 

What glitches did you notice if any with the old version, I think it was 1.4. I think ive seen more glitches whith the 2.0, what do you think MM.

 

I tried to decompile the program. It is VB written, and was fairly easy to reverse.
I used a VB Decompiler Lite (trial), and it quickly pulled out the code for forms out of it but the rest of the app is compiled to machine code, so it is assembly which I am not that intuitive with (last used back in school years ago)
If you want, you can get the latest copy of the Int-X soft from: http://www.microtechefi.com/software/setup.zip

If you do this sort of thing often, you'll have no trouble sorting what goes where on this thing.

 

The older version wasn't too "glitchy", it just didn't have nearly as many Renesis-specific features as the v2.0 software.

 

The diasio uses only microtech to run. No Stock ECU needed.

 

Is the overheating issue the only issue that you had with the dongle other then the temp gauge inacuracy. How did it run?

 

NO! Its not the dongle. Its the temp input circuit inside the EMU.
It runs great.
I feel like Abbot and Costello.
"Who's on first?"
"Yes."
"Yes is on first?"
"No. Who is on first."
"I just asked you Who is on first!"
"Precisely."

 

Benny was saying that sometimes the ECU would bypass the temps and still go into closed loop. My goal is to keep it in open loop so I can tune all around, I dont want any stock control from the ECU at all. If it holds my tune without trimming the benifits are in my favor. My goal is 13 A/F to 3500 RPMs then 12.5 to redline. In VAC im looking for 15 to 16 A/F for cruzzing. If this is acomplished im looking at 200 miles city and 300 miles highway from a tank of gas. Like I said before ive accomplished this tune and everythings great till the next day when it starts trimming.

 

The timming is set way back and is staying there till I get better control.

 

What have you done on the timing MAP?
What are your net leading and trailing timing points under boost?

 

Its -15 across the board.

 

I presume you mean while in boost.

I actually am -20 in a lot of the area around the torque peak. An even wider area on the trailing to increase the split.

The OEM PCM will try to put 30°+ of timing with only 8° of split. That wouldn't be very nice at the torque peak with 12 PSI+.

 

im only pushing 5 psi at this point, like I say im not interested in more til I get better control

 

-10 till 3000, -13 till 4000, then -10 again the rest of the way

 

Cam was saying you dont want more then 12 degress at 12 psi as a rule

 

id say 10 degrees with high compression.

 

Actually, on 91 octane at 10:1 compression and a PR of 2, the Renesis only needs about 7° at 5500 RPM with 12° to 15° of split.

 

Can you thnk of anyway that I can go into total open loop for the time being till I get the dongle

 

Im not ready to play with split yet. one step at a time

 

I see you like miatas, we have a 13b maita for sale, 300 WHP, flared fenders

 

Yeah - get a variable resistor and install it in the coolant sensor line and start trimming the voltage until it is about 1 volt.
This will keep the read temp down around 170°F.
It will also make your idle high and your coolant fans won't come on.
It will probably keep your APV closed too, but I'm not sure of that.

Or, you can just do what I keep telling you to do. Your choice.

 

I already have the O2 dongle and its not working, it keeps settling itself back to 11 to 11.5. It makes it feel to spongy compared to 12.5. What else can you think of. I have to order a veristor with the rite values, radioshack dosnt have one.

 

I have my board out and was woundering if anyone nows what all of the jumpers are for, spacifics. Air temps 14, acorrding to MM 13 is coolent temp.

 

Air temp is working

 

The entire instruction guide is on my site.